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Simple Oil Change Question

Freshmo55

Well-Known Member
Joined
June 10, 2002
Messages
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City, State
Atlanta, GA
Year, Model & Trim Level
'99 Sport
I am going to be changing my oil for the first time this weekend and was wondering if I might need any special tool for removing my oil filter?
I haven't changed the oil in an explorer before so I am not sure how hard it will be to get to the filter and how hard it will be to remove?
Any tips or suggestions?
Also, what is the recommended amount of oil to put in?

Thanks!
 



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As long as it wasn't over tightened when installed, you won't need any tools. Which engine do you have? On my '99 w/ SOHC, don't change it with the oil really hot, you want it warm because it will be faster, but if it is really hot then the oil will run out and get all over the exhaust manifold and the pass. A-Arm.
 






Just make sure your hands aren't slippery or it could be really hard to get a good grip on the filter. I have a few of those adjustable oil filter puller twister thing-a-ma-jigs laying around. I only use those if the filter is really really really stuck in there. Most of the time it just twists right off with a little bit of muscle.
 






Its a pretty tight area where the filter is and while you can get an oil filter wrench up in there its a pain to use. Ive only had to use a filter wrench once and that was the first time I changed it and I had already but my oily hands all over the filter so i couldn't grip it. But yeah if you have the SOHC the oil does shoot out all over the lower A-arm so put your catching pan in a good location.
 






If you have to get a tool for it because it is on too tight, get the adapter that fits on the end of a ratchet. It fits over the end of the filter, and is a great buy for $5.
 






Or just use a screwdriver! :D

No seriously that is a worst case scenario. The adapter that fits on the ratchet is nice and it will fit several different size filters. But, if you do the oil changes from here on out, you should know how tight they are, and they aren't supposed to be that tight.
 






Originally posted by Freshmo55

Any tips or suggestions?

Also, what is the recommended amount of oil to put in?

Thanks!

I just noticed that part.
Remember as always, to put new oil on the filter gasket.
I am sure you know that already.

The amount of oil needed will be in the owners manual....
 






I have the ratchet oil filter tool and it is great. Nice with a long extension and less mess. I always drain the oil from the plug first as well before taking out the filter.
 






If yours is a SOHC, here is what I have learned in the 91K miles of changing my oil on my '97:

1) Get one of those drain plug adapters that install in place of your drain plug. The one I have has a lever that you turn by hand to release the oil. It also has a fitting on the end that I slip a 3/8" hose over so I direct the oil into my container. Mine is made by Fumoto (http://www.fumotovalve.com/). I believe Walmart caries a Femco quick drain plug also. Get it before you do your first oil change so that from now on they go much smoother (& cleaner). With the factory drain plug, your oil will shoot straight out the side of your oil pan onto your passenger side lower control arm. No matter how many different ways you try and block the flow and direct it into your drain pan, you will still make a mess.

2) Drive a 16 penny nail into the bottom of your oil filter so that it drains most of the oil. Be sure and position your catch pan under it. If you don't the oil in the filter will start to run out from the top as you loosen it up and run down the sides. When you get the last thread undone, it will catch you by surprise and slip right through your fingers and splash all over you. Draining the filter first will lighten it by about a pound so it will be much easier to hold on to.

3) Get one of the socket type filter wrenches. It's true that it shouldn't be on so tight that it needs a wrench but with the engine nice and hot, the tight quarters and oil all over your hands it makes removing the filter a breeze. I use my 9" extension and a 3/8" ratchet to remove it.

4) Check to be sure the old filter gasket didn't come off and stay attached to your engine. Since your new filter will already have a gasket, one gasket is good, two gaskets is very bad. Makes a hellofa mess.

5) Cover the new filter gasket with a coating of new oil and install the filter hand tight.

6) Be sure you closed your drain valve or reinstalled your drain plug.

7) If you elect to put the factory drain plug back in, it may be considered ****, but I always tighten mine down to the proper torque specs using my torque wrench. I have never stripped one out. When I used to take my company vehicles in for oil changes, I was constantly having to pay them to fix the stripped out drain plug that they stripped on my previous oil change. It is so simple to do and since you have to use a ratchet anyways to put the plug back in, you might as well use a torque wrench. Get the specs from a Haynes or Chilton's manual.

8) Fill your engine back up with the proper amount and proper viscosity oil. My SOHC calls for 5 quarts of 5W30.

9) Reinstall your fill cap.

10) Start your engine and watch that your oil guage shows pressure within a few seconds of starting it.

11) Look over your filter, drain plug and filler cap to be sure you don't have any leaks.
 






Wow... now that's an explanation.

Thanks a lot Robert, and everyone for all their suggestions and help.
I think I am set to go. I'll just pick up all the materials sometime this week and try to do a semi clean change this weekend.

Thanks again!
 






Robert is right on about that...poke a hole in your old oil filter, so that it drains a good portion of the oil out of the filter before you mess with it. It makes it a lot easier.

Good idea about the aftermarket oil pan drain plug. I've always been annoyed by oil hitting the A-arm. The only problem I can see would be vandalism...ie. some rat-a$$ gets under your truck and opens the valve. Of course they'd have to know it was there, and you might notice the pool of oil underneath, heheh, or you might not.
 






I cut the top off of a 2 liter bottle and use the rest of the bottle to hold the filter. That way when the oil starts going over it goes in there and not on my hands.
 






I tried the 2-liter bottle method but with the oil running down the sides of the filter I still lost my grip and dropped the filter, bottle and all. I didn't empty the filter first though and I only cut the bottom of the bottle off so it had about 6" to fall before it bottomed out in the bottle. That was the only time I tried the 2-liter bottle though. As a matter of fact that was probably what made me try putting a hole in the filter. Once I did that, I didn't have a need to try the 2-liter bottle again.
 






Originally posted by Rhett Browning
. . . The only problem I can see would be vandalism...ie. some rat-a$$ gets under your truck and opens the valve. Of course they'd have to know it was there, and you might notice the pool of oil underneath, heheh, or you might not.

Someone would have to know it is there to bother with crawling under there to drain my oil. I doubt if a random act would occur. If it were going to be a random act and someone crawled under my Explorer to drain my oil, they would already have a wrench to loosen the drain plug. They wouldn't have any reason to think I might have a quick drain valve. As far as I know I haven't pi$$ed off anyone that I know that knows I have it installed bad enough to want to drain my oil. The worst thing that would happen is my engine would get started with no oil. The severe rattling noise, the lack of oil pressure and the Check Guage light would all be signals for me to shut it off immediately and check things out.
 






What size is that drain jobbie. I don't see a listing for any 4.0L engines of any year.
 






Robert! Thats awesome!

I have changed my own oil for like 12 years on several of my cars/trucks and a bunch of my friends/family's cars. You have some great tips in there!

Always drain your oil with the engine warm, I mean dont just warm it up, get it HOT then let it cool just so you dont burn yourself (hot oil burns HURT!, hot exhaust on the knee doesnt feel to good either!)

On Explorer's (at least the OHV 4.0L) the filter mount can actually come loose. Now is the time to check, if you are dripping oil from around the filter area especially you might want to check the bolt that holds it to the engine. Seen this twice and hear of several.

Make sure you CLEAN (wipe with rag) the filter mount surface before you put the new filter on, many people just unscrew the old one and screw on the new one. A no no, you need to stick your head up there and look to make sure there is no dirt and the old gasket indeed did come off with the filter.

I like Roberts idea of draining the filter first with a nail, I always unscrew it until it starts to drip, then sit and wait for it to drip, then unscrew some more, let it drip, you get the idea. Almost always the damn thing slips out of my hand and lands right in the drain pan causing a huge mess.

Another good tip I picked upa few years back is to fill the new filter with new oil before you screw it on the engine. Of course youhave to be careful not to drop it or spill it. This will keep your engine from running with 0 PSI of oil pressure for the first 20 seconds after an oil change (has to fill up the new filter). Over time this can really wear out your engine. The Motocraft FL-1A filter holds almost a quart, dont forget to subtract what you put inthe filter from what you pour in the crankcase!

Time to get myself a 16 penny nail.....

Oh and dont EVER trust quick lube places, you hear the horror stories, most of them are true! They throw away (or keep) K&N filters, the forget to tighten drain plugs, and they just plain suck!!!!!!!!!!!

Once you change your own oil you will never have anybody else do it again, it saves $$$, you know it's done right, and you get a chance to get under the truck and take a look around.

I use nothing but Mobil One Synthetic 10W-30 in my 4.0L and usually use a Mobil filter or a Motocraft filter. Staw away from Fram. Mobil decided to change their synthetic oils recently and I switched to Castrol full Syntec, it works well too but I will be going back to Mobil....it might be in my head but I swear the Mobil runs smoother, gets better mileage, and runs cooler then the castrol......
 






Hey, lots of good tips! I really like 410 Fortune's idea of filling up the new filter with oil before installing it. A tip someone else posted on this board awhile ago is to use a gallon-size ziplock storage bag to completely cover your filter when unscrewing it . Then just toss out filter, bag, and mess.
 






Originally posted by Fischer
What size is that drain jobbie. I don't see a listing for any 4.0L engines of any year.

My '97 SOHC takes an F-106N (thread size 14mm-1.5)
 






Its easy to simply put a zip lock bag over the filter after breaking it loose and then unscrew by hand. Never a single drop of oil anywhere but in the bag.
 



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Man so much for the simple oil change question! These are some great idea's, I may even wear a suit next time I change the oil!!!!!!!!!
 






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