Sorry this is post install but I was racing against the weather to get this on and didn't have time to take pictures.
Door clearance is only about 1/8 of an inch. This is due to the mounting position I chose and because I didn't have a step drill or 5/8 bit for the mounting boltholes which would have given more wiggle room. Also the hole in the fender for the snorkel outlet could have been moved straight up about 1/4 of an inch.
You'll find that the snorkel support bracket is not tall enough and you'll need to make one that's about 1 1/4" taller that the Safari bracket. I made mine from a piece of 1/8-inch thick material. You'll need to use a break or a vise to put about a 30-degree bend in the bracket.
The snorkel's support bracket is attached to the window pillar. I used a box knife to cut through the seals and later closed the cut with silicone. I wish that I'd had an angle head drill when drilling the pillar for the bracket. My 1/2 inch electric drill didn't fit well in the space available, which forced me to drill at an angle. This created a misalignment of about an 1/8 of an inch. When the bracket was pop riveted to the pillar I found that I had to enlarge the boltholes for the snorkel to compensate for this. This wouldn't have been a big deal if I'd had an electric dremel handy or a way to drill out the rivets and take the bracket to the workbench.
Here's where I filled a contour with silicone. I spent a couple hours working the snorkel over with a heat gun and some of the Toyota curves couldn't be removed. In one spot on the back side I had to make a stand off to fit over the mounting bolt in order to fill a 5/8 inch gap between the snorkel and the fender.
All the ductwork is tucked in the fender and out of site. Inside the fender there's a box-like structure spot-welded to the inner fender wall. I had to cut a triangle shaped piece of this out to accommodate the 3 1/2 inch O.D. ducting and the rubber elbow at the snorkel outlet. The piece I cut measured approximately 2 inches at the base and was seven to 8 inches long. If you decide to do this the position will become obvious during the install.
After drilling a 4 inch hole in the inner fender and lining with some rubber trim material (edging of some sort I had laying around) I cut a hole in the end of the air filter housing big enough to accommodate the 3 inch inlet bell and drilled, bolted and siliconed it in place.
the lip on the factory inlet was ground flat and I made a sheet metal disk that was used to seal the opening along with four number 8 screws and more silicone.
I hope that either ARB or the guy from Florida will make a nice clean kit for us so that others can simply drill and bolt, not require a ton of silicone to fill gaps and everything will fit like it's OEM.
Sunday I went to Prairie City and drove through a 100+ foot long mud pit with water above the headlights and the engine never faltered. See you at the deep end of the pool!!