soda blast | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

soda blast

wolfnutts

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 16, 2006
Messages
408
Reaction score
6
City, State
bristol tn
Year, Model & Trim Level
91 nav ho. 96 5.0 4 dr
watched power block show the other day an they blasted the underside of one of their rigs with soda .
an from what they said it holds of the rust for awhile till you can paint undercoat whatever , my qwestion is i looked on a auto body site as i guess i need a different nozel for my sand blasting rig . so im thinking i need a bigger size ?? to handle a soda type blasting media then for blk grit ?
anyone used this stuff with any luck :D
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





so none have used soda media in thei blaster ?? hello is their a better forum to place this ??
 












Here is what sn0border88 says:

No, its leaves a horrible mess. I did quite a bit of both ice and soda blasting when I did fire restoration and I always hated soda blasting. Its gets everywhere and doesnt come out.

Ice blasting is great, noisy as hell and cold but great. Its works so well on grease and things with some moisture content because it freezes the junk and then just chips it off.

Maybe PM him for more info.
 






ok thks guys thaes me some info to start with now ive got to see about the cost . if it will be worth it for me ,ill be working outside if i chose to go this route so a big mess shouldnt be a problem as i understand it the soda just washes off .the show i was watching didnt go into much detail
 












I'm really interested in the Eastwood Soda Blasting setup too (Harbor Freight has one also).

It seems like the dream stripper. No toxicity, no mounds of sand afterward, no worrying about rust immediately, no harming to the metal, and any hobbyist can get setup for cheap.

So where's the catch? Snoboarder says it's messy, but if you do it in a driveway and wait til it rains, is it gone? Is it really strong enough to take you down to bare metal?
 






I'm really interested in the Eastwood Soda Blasting setup too (Harbor Freight has one also).

It seems like the dream stripper. No toxicity, no mounds of sand afterward, no worrying about rust immediately, no harming to the metal, and any hobbyist can get setup for cheap.

So where's the catch? Snoboarder says it's messy, but if you do it in a driveway and wait til it rains, is it gone? Is it really strong enough to take you down to bare metal?

I'm a member of their forum. You might check it out there--

http://forum.eastwoodco.com/index.php?

The general consensus from the ( powdercoating) members was it is hyped--as it is a wet process and very messy.
 






Seriously though. I'm really sick of seeing and hearing about people painting stuff so beautifully. No one ever discusses how the prep work is done.

I'm trying to paint my rear axle and the rear frame and all the brackets and such. I spent all day scrubbing, sanding, and wire brushing and there is still dirt, rust, oil, and paint all over everything. I'm not even worried about the rust because I'm using POR-15.

How the hell am I ever going to do a frame off restoration on my other truck, removing paint from the exterior body???
 






Seriously though. I'm really sick of seeing and hearing about people painting stuff so beautifully. No one ever discusses how the prep work is done.

I'm trying to paint my rear axle and the rear frame and all the brackets and such. I spent all day scrubbing, sanding, and wire brushing and there is still dirt, rust, oil, and paint all over everything. I'm not even worried about the rust because I'm using POR-15.

How the hell am I ever going to do a frame off restoration on my other truck, removing paint from the exterior body???

Did you check the soda blasting video on the eastwood forum?
 






OH
BTW
I have been trying to get Eastwood here as a vendor. I really hope they come aboard.

In the meantime, you can join the eastwood club for 30 bux and get free shipping on all orders for a year. Thinking in those terms their prices arent't too shabby


Look on their store site for details,
 






I don't think I've seen their video yet, I'll have to wait until I'm home again. I've read a lot of what Eastwood has to say about it, and I saw it on TrucksTV, but I'd like to know about the independent real world reviews.

I browsed through their forums re: soda blasting. I'm still not sure about the "messy" part. I feel a lot of members work indoors in their professional shops, I'm interested in doing this in a driveway.

Some of the negatives: the pulverized baking soda cakes up afterwards. I don't see why pressure water blasting it immediately afterwards wouldn't fix this easily though (however, this would negate the temporary rust protection of the soda). It seems to me, all other types of stripping have bigger problems with the residue. When you acid dip, you have to make sure you wash away everything, sand/media-blasting leaves dust in crevices, so I don't see soda-blasting being any worse.

Another negative is that soda blasting isn't strong enough to remove rust at all. Some say it's pointless to blast if you're not removing the rust too. I think the hardest part is getting rid of all the paint, dirt and grease. Then you can focus on rust by replacing it with new sheet metal (which you would have to do anyway), or focusing on specific rust areas with sandpaper, rather than having to sandpaper rust AND paint on an entire panel.

Another "negative" is that it leaves the surface too smooth. But it seems everyone is in agreement that this is nothing a spray on etching solution can't fix.

A huge positive is that it doesn't warp the metal like sandblasting. I guess there is an ideal method for each component. When doing body work, soda blasting seems great because it won't damage the thin sheet metal. Rust on body work, if minor, should be easy to sand off by hand, if major, needs to be cut out anyway, so sand blasting won't give you any real benefits. If you need to strip a frame, then maybe sandblasting is the way to go, but soda blasting should be adequate for a hobbyist, especially if you use a rust product like POR-15.

Especially if you plan on using something like POR-15, soda blasting seems ideal. It's biggest flaw is that it doesn't remove rust, and the wet blasting can cause flash rust. This is actually ideal for POR-15.

I'm a big f'in noob to this. My experience stripping paint encompasses taking sandpaper, filing for 10 seconds, then getting bored and watching TV. I have no idea what I'm talking about, but it seems this soda-blasting is the ultimate stripper, a must need for a restoration, especially for a home mechanic.

I saw someone mention dry soda-blasting. What is this?
 






soda blasting

I was reviewing the web-site and notice your discussion about soda blasting. Abrasive blasting is all I've done for the past four years. That's important because guys who soda blast "on the side" for a little cash don't have a clue. It's messy, it can be cleaned up rather easily and requires the right compressors if you want to get the job done in a timely fashion. The equipment isn't cheap and if it is, watch out!
 






Back
Top