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Deleted member 352605

Hey! Wondering how long y'all go between spark plug and wire changes... i go about 30-40 maybe 50k on a set of platinum plugs... i'm still running OE wires, as they have no issues... should i replace them? also same with the alternator it's oe as well, should i put a new one in when i have it out? thanks!
i'm putting more cash into this fix then i 1st expected lol
 



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I see no reason to change the alternator. I went 100k on my Motorcraft plugs. I’ve got 50k in the current set. I’ll probably change them soon.
 






Hey! Wondering how long y'all go between spark plug and wire changes... i go about 30-40 maybe 50k on a set of platinum plugs... i'm still running OE wires, as they have no issues... should i replace them? also same with the alternator it's oe as well, should i put a new one in when i have it out? thanks!
i'm putting more cash into this fix then i 1st expected lol
I have over 200K on original OEM wires on one with no issues, misses, or other. I change the double platinum plugs about every 50K since it is easy, cheap and I can look at the plugs to see if something is going on internally.
 






Thanks! Also, i'm replacing the brake pads, should i do the rotors as well since they are OE... i've never had a problem with them but given the mileage, it might be time... thanks!
 






Thanks! Also, i'm replacing the brake pads, should i do the rotors as well since they are OE... i've never had a problem with them but given the mileage, it might be time... thanks!
I always either have them turned or put new ones on. There are specs on thickness after turning so you need to check this.
 












thanks @crunchie_frog !! do you happen to have those specs? thanks!
From Haynes, Front 0.98 inches, Rear 0.409 inches. There may be a minimum thickness stamped on your rotors so I would check that as well. O'Reilly's turns rotors though I have to say I have had hit or miss luck with them. A lot of folks just replace them since the cost delta is probably not that much but I always try to turn them when I can as long as they meet specs. While you are doing your brakes, you might want to look at flushing the brake fluid. It absorbs moisture and corrosion products over time and needs to be flushed with some regularity. If you do this, be careful as you do not want to let the reservoir go empty or you will get air in the ABS system and it may be difficult to get out.
 






ok! ya i did a flush last time i did my front pads... probably about time... how much fluid do i need, the Detroit axle one comes with 16 oz... normally i think it takes like 32 oz... should i order more because normally i scrape by with 32...
 


















i tested my ignition timing advance via an obd2 scanner and it said 14.5 degrees... is this a lot, can it be corrected? thanks!
 






Why would it need corrected? The timing will change as you drive.
 






I have over 200K on original OEM wires on one with no issues, misses, or other....
You sir, are very lucky -- or did not notice a gradual degradation. Sometimes bad wires don't cause an obvious misfire, but just a slow decline in power. On my '98, one ignition wire, located close to the exhaust manifold failed in 2000, with about 35,000 miles. I replaced the entire set (with OEM wires), and it held for a few years. Despite the heat shield on them, the exhaust heat causes cracking in the rubber insulation and shorts to ground develop. Sometimes they are dramatic and there is no spark at all, and sometimes just cause a weak spark.
Several years ago, when replacing for the umptieth time, I discovered that Motorcraft wires now come with silicone insulation instead of the older neoprene, and bought those. So far so good. There is a reason that every automaker changed the system to coil-on-plug about a decade ago...
 












Yeah, I’d say so. Original owner?
 






I do mine every 100k. Motorcraft wires, Motorcraft platinum plugs.
 






i tested my ignition timing advance via an obd2 scanner and it said 14.5 degrees... is this a lot, can it be corrected? thanks!
Ignition timing is not adjustable. The PCM (computer) controls it, and it varies constantly, depending on RPM, throttle, and a dozen other things. The 14.5 deg that you saw (at idle, I guess, because it can be much more under load) doesn't mean a thing. Just leave it alone.
 






You sir, are very lucky -- or did not notice a gradual degradation. Sometimes bad wires don't cause an obvious misfire, but just a slow decline in power. On my '98, one ignition wire, located close to the exhaust manifold failed in 2000, with about 35,000 miles. I replaced the entire set (with OEM wires), and it held for a few years. Despite the heat shield on them, the exhaust heat causes cracking in the rubber insulation and shorts to ground develop. Sometimes they are dramatic and there is no spark at all, and sometimes just cause a weak spark.
Several years ago, when replacing for the umptieth time, I discovered that Motorcraft wires now come with silicone insulation instead of the older neoprene, and bought those. So far so good. There is a reason that every automaker changed the system to coil-on-plug about a decade ago...
I have had misfires and intermittent misfires from bad plug wires. I have changed plug wires that are old (without misfires) with new wires and did not notice any difference. If the spark is strong enough to ignite at the correct time then I think the wires are okay. I think you would notice a significant loss of power or misfire if the wires are bad. They may be closer to failure if they are old and you may want to do PM replacement but I do not think you will see a power gain by replacing wires that are not causing a noticeable loss of power or misfire.
 






So far I've done it twice at 100K intervals, Motorcraft plugs and wires. Might change them at 280 this time, we will see.
 



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If it’s on factory wires then it probably needs a fair amount of other general maintenance like brake fluid swap, coolant flush, transfer case and axle fluid changes.
 






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