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SOLVED

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Explorerguy:

Each owner has to make the call on what type of performance they expect from their machine. I am a fuel economy nut, so I watch my mileage, always. I have learned how I can maintain my autos to keep their peak fuel economy at the highest potential.

I change my plugs every 10kmi, wires every 20kmi. I use full synthetic fluids in everything and keep it clean with filters, changing the oil every 10kmi or when it is dirty.

The way I see it is, if I spend more money on parts, polute less and use less fuel, I am part of the SOLUTION!
 



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Explorerguy:

Each owner has to make the call on what type of performance they expect from their machine. I am a fuel economy nut, so I watch my mileage, always. I have learned how I can maintain my autos to keep their peak fuel economy at the highest potential.

I change my plugs every 10kmi, wires every 20kmi. I use full synthetic fluids in everything and keep it clean with filters, changing the oil every 10kmi or when it is dirty.

The way I see it is, if I spend more money on parts, polute less and use less fuel, I am part of the SOLUTION!
Lmao I'm part of the PROBLEM
 






Explorerguy:

Each owner has to make the call on what type of performance they expect from their machine. I am a fuel economy nut, so I watch my mileage, always. I have learned how I can maintain my autos to keep their peak fuel economy at the highest potential.

I change my plugs every 10kmi, wires every 20kmi. I use full synthetic fluids in everything and keep it clean with filters, changing the oil every 10kmi or when it is dirty.

The way I see it is, if I spend more money on parts, polute less and use less fuel, I am part of the SOLUTION!
It’s not really being part of the solution if your replacing parts that don’t need replaced. There’s a lot of energy and material in that stuff.
 






Explorerguy:

Each owner has to make the call on what type of performance they expect from their machine. I am a fuel economy nut, so I watch my mileage, always. I have learned how I can maintain my autos to keep their peak fuel economy at the highest potential.

I change my plugs every 10kmi, wires every 20kmi. I use full synthetic fluids in everything and keep it clean with filters, changing the oil every 10kmi or when it is dirty.

The way I see it is, if I spend more money on parts, polute less and use less fuel, I am part of the SOLUTION!

to me, as long as the engine is healthy, economy doesn't mean as much to me cause it's not my daily, and i just need it to be reliable and to tow stuff... fun times!
 






It’s not really being part of the solution if your replacing parts that don’t need replaced. There’s a lot of energy and material in that stuff.
[/QUOT
im part but not part of the problem... passed smog every time tho! also, i disconnect the egr system so it runs cooler and more efficient! however, i reconnect it right before smog check.. 🤭
hmm, EGR flow reduces combustion temperature, so how does disabling make the engine run cooler? And it's probably pinging under load too -- because the ignition advance profile is programmed for EGR. And by the way, thank you for contributing to global pollution; it's been too low in this age of corona virus.
 






o crap... i havent noticed pinging, but... crap im part of the problem... i thought it made it cleaner because the old dirty air going back in... imma go reconnect it
The EGR is what does that.... Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve.
 






got it wrong... crankcase ventilation, is this beneficial or detremential.. thanks and sorry!
 

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Put the emissions back to factory. You aren’t improving anything.
 






got it wrong... crankcase ventilation, is this beneficial or detremential.. thanks and sorry!
Some of the unburned mixture and a bit of exhaust gas gets into the crankcase past the rings. It has to get out of there somehow, or bad things will happen. Old engines just had a tube, pointing back, so airflow while driving sucked the stuff out into the atmosphere. Because it contains unburned gasoline and other nasty stuff, since the 1960s it's been directed into the intake manifold for burning through the PCV, while flushing the crankcase with a bit of air (that air comes from the engine air tube, past the MAF, so it's metered properly). Disconnecting this will take you back to the air pollution of 1950s - even my lawn mower has some kind of a rudimentary PCV. Your disconnected tube will cause this stuff to go into the engine compartment, and from there part of it will also be sucked into the cabin through the ventilation system. You judge if that's good or bad.
 






Many of the mods that people do to increase performance end up harming it. While there are some things that do result in “free” HP, the factory usually gets most things right on a daily driver like the Explorer.

I worked as a Honda motorcycle/ATV tech a long time ago, and the mods that people did to their bikes blew my mind—especially on the 80s carbureted bikes. Honda typically did a very good job building tuned intake and exhaust systems to optimize the bikes for street riding. These hackjobs would install pod filters, or drill holes in airboxes, remove intake funnels, hollow out exhaust collectors, install jet kits, shorten CV slider springs, etc etc. Many ran like crap. Some actually developed more peak HP, but at the cost of completely gutting the low and midrange.

Had a guy who brought in a V45 Sabre that had a jet kit, K&N filter, holes drilled in the airbox cover, etc etc. It ran like crap, and he wanted it “fixed”. I removed the jet kit, made a new cover out of some sheet metal, installed an OEM filter, etc. Returned it to factory spec. He got back a strong running bike and a box of bullshit parts. He wasn’t happy about seeing his decently new Dynojet kit in the box, but whatever.

Moral of the story? Factory engineers usually know best.
 






If you want to keep all the sludge out of your engine install a catch can
 






Sorry for so many questions! One last one... I know this is relative and depends on so mqny variables, but have you found Oxford Whire Clearcoat to be softer or harder of a paint. before the quarantine i let a froend practoce random orbital corrxtion on my hood... well, when i left gor a while to make lunch, he did close to 10 passes... also, he marred the finish a bit... wanting to know if i can correct it back to what it used to look like withiut sacrificing the clearcoat... next tome i wont leave unless i know its off lol!
 






Honesty I don't know I do know I bought Oxford white and clear coat from the auto parts store and yes it's very good and hard paint
 






If you want a durable finish, go to your local auto paint supply. Buy a multi-part clear and spray it on. I used a PPG clear when I needed to repaint my hatch (can’t remember which one) and it is hard as hell.
 












I’m imagining your factory clear coat is pretty thin by now. Sure he didn’t burn the clear off?

This is why you don’t let friends “practice” on your paint. The more you try and correct it the less clear you will end up with.
 






I checked and i didnt notice any clear damage... just sandpaper marks... also, yes, i trusted him, since the first 5 minutes, he was doing ok... but then i go in to make lunch, and he's still doing the same spot...
 












In full swing now! Hoping I can finish by the end of this month... Anything else I should do while I have the engine apart? Also, can i pull the harmonic balancer prior to the alt/ps pump etc? I want to see if i can get it off first before getting the rest off bc if i cant get it off i might just put it back together. Are there any other tools i need to pull the balancer? I rented the PepBoys balancer puller pn 27187
 

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Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





In full swing now! Hoping I can finish by the end of this month... Anything else I should do while I have the engine apart? Also, can i pull the harmonic balancer prior to the alt/ps pump etc? I want to see if i can get it off first before getting the rest off bc if i cant get it off i might just put it back together. Are there any other tools i need to pull the balancer? I rented the PepBoys balancer puller pn 27187

Once the serpentine belt is off you can pull the harmonic balancer. You'll need a new bolt to reinstall it as it's TTY.
 






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