Sport Suspension

[Jawlsey]

I recently bought a 1998 Ford Explorer Sport SOHC 4.0L from a family friend for $800, as a project and a toy. The truck wasn't running so great, so I went ahead and turned a wrench on it. So far i've replaced the water pump, shocks (front and back), ball joints (upper and lower), four Goodyear tires, OEM plugs and wires, and had it professionally re-aligned. Tomorrow when I get off work i'm going to pick up a pair of leaf springs off of a 4 door Explorer, to replace my sagging mono leaf springs.

I am also going to order an Aadco rear sway bar and an Energy front sway link kit to try and tighten things up a bit. I've read around that lowering the vehicle 1" - 1.5" with the sway bars improves handling dramatically and reduces body roll. I've used the search function here and Google'd to my hearts content but I cannot for the life of me figure out definitively how much extra strain doing so will place on my suspension. I'm not looking to slam it, just be more unique as I won't be towing anything with it or riding 3 - 5 passengers.

The general consensus seems to be the leaf spring drop kit and torsion twist. I'm just trying to make it handle better and reduce wheel gap slightly, when I need a new set of tires i'm moving to 17" wheels for looks and around here its easier to find tires that size. The engine and transmission has quite a few miles on it, so when the timing chain goes i'm going to have a friends engine / transmission shop rebuild both. Probably with a slightly more aggressive cam, port and polish, etc... at that point i'll buy a programmer. After I finish with this suspension stuff i'm going to install this Borla Turbo XL muffler I sourced locally for next to nothing, probably going 2.5" custom cat back just after the factory choke point.

Sorry for the wall of text! I've been trying to join for two weeks now, and just checked my damn spam filter.... I'll post a picture of the vehicle in a few minutes. I removed the rusty side steps and the useless roof rack, the body has almost zero dings and the paint is pristine. Image is below, sorry for the potato quality!

My Sport!

 

[koda2000]

the sway bar has no effect on ride height, are you referring to the torsion bars? replacing the sway bar bushings and end links will tighten up the ride and help with cornering. Moog has recently come out with a new end-link design, which would be my choice. Energy Suspension offers neoprene sway bar bushings which i believe are grease-able.

 

[Turdle]

Welcome to the forum.

Please re size your photo and re post it. The current size is too large.

Thanks!.

 

[Jawlsey]

I know that the sway bars don't have an effect on ride height. I was just mentioning them as a part of my proposed suspension upgrades. Aadco rear sway bar, Moog front links, replacement leaf springs, and potentially lowering the vehicle. I know the leaf spring blocks and a tortion twist will work, as will coil overs and lowering springs / shocks. I just don't know which option to go with, on my personal vehicle. I'm leaning away from the lowering shocks and coil overs just because I literally just replaced my shocks with Monroe Sensa-Trac front and rear. Any suggestions?

 

[swshawaii]

Blocks are the most common method for rear lowering. Regarding shocks, rear mounting points don't change, only the axle moves up. I've been using stock length SensaTrac's over four years without issues with my 2.5" front/3" rear drop. Loosening the torsion bolts will usually lower the front at least 2". Cutting bump stops, camber kits, and alignment are needed any time you adjust the torsion bars. New Moog poly end links are K700542. Lot's of great info in the "Seriously Lowered" sub forum including sticky's.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=46

The Explorer Express "X-Spec" or Hellwig 7648 are two other rear sway bar options. Best deal you will find on the Addco 633 below.
http://www.zabteck.com/swaybar.htm

 

[Jawlsey]

Blocks are the most common method for rear lowering. Regarding shocks, rear mounting points don't change, only the axle moves up. I've been using stock length SensaTrac's over four years without issues with my 2.5" front/3" rear drop. Loosening the torsion bolts will usually lower the front at least 2". Cutting bump stops, camber kits, and alignment are needed any time you adjust the torsion bars. New Moog poly end links are K700542. Lot's of great info in the "Seriously Lowered" sub forum including sticky's.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=46

The Explorer Express "X-Spec" or Hellwig 7648 are two other rear sway bar options. Best deal you will find on the Addco 633 below.
http://www.zabteck.com/swaybar.htm

I totally missed that sub forum, I appreciate the heads up! Do you happen to know of a good place to buy the metal grill inserts, upper and lower? I've done some browsing online and the cheapest i've seen is about $400 shipped for the pair. Seems a tad bit high for two pieces of aluminum.

 

[swshawaii]

Depends on the style you're looking for. Lots of them on Ebay with really good prices, do a search. You reminded me to cut my front bump stops. I haven't been using them since I lowered, and recently heard popping noises from my shocks bottoming out over large bumps. Found out the torsion bars sagged about 3/8" over the years. Used a hack saw and oil to remove about 1/2" off the bottom. Didn't want to cut more because there is metal hidden underneath the rubber. Problem solved, even steep bumps.

 

[Jawlsey]

Looks good! I just got off the phone with my local parts house. Ordered the Moog sway bar link kit for the front and the back, those and my non-mono leaf springs should be here tomorrow. From there i'll finish installing my rear shocks, and the rest of the parts i've ordered as well as an alignment. I think from there i'll see what kind of shape my tie rod ends are in, may replace those soon with the Moog inner and outer ones. I figure i'll see how she rides with those improvements before I lower anything.

From there i'll have a good portion of the suspension upgraded, so it should be loads better. I'll probably sit aside the $250 necessary to have a custom mandrel bent steel exhaust fabricated and welded together with my Borla Turbo XL muffler, going with "dual" exhaust with welded on chrome tips. I'm doing that more for the look and improved airflow than the sound. I know it won't net me any real performance improvements until I do the engine rebuild or swap in a V8. I'd love to do the V8 swap but $1600 for a complete engine rebuild with mild performance parts and $800 for the transmission vs $$$$ for the donor vehicle, engine / trans rebuild, and a metric **** ton of annoyance with a wiring harness swap....

As far as the aesthetics are concerned I like the look of this model, however the grill pictured on the middle explorer in the banner at the top of the forum looks good to IMO.

 

[swshawaii]

Do you happen to know of a good place to buy the metal grill inserts, upper and lower? I've done some browsing online and the cheapest i've seen is about $400 shipped for the pair. Seems a tad bit high for two pieces of aluminum.

My mistake, 2001-03 two door Sport front ends are identical to 2001-05 ST's with the exception of brakes. Earlier Sports are not.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2622504&postcount=9

 

[Jawlsey]

Nonetheless you were right about them being available on Ebay for good prices. I just did a quick search and found the exact model I linked to available for $40 - $60 less than brand new. I'm glad I have time to decide between chrome and blacked out. I'm more interested in improving the handling and performance than the looks. However a set of 17" rims, lowering, and a new grill are in my future at some point.

 

[Jawlsey]

Went ahead today and put on the Moog front sway bar end links and rear sway bar end links as well as the rear shocks that i've been meaning to do but kind of forgot that I hadn't done. My friend who owns an alignment shop hooked me up and while I was there I had my tires rotated and checked to make sure they are balanced properly. He found that one of my rear wheels isn't perfectly "true". Therefore i've got my eye on getting a new set of wheels soon.

The question is, stay with 15" or go to 17". I JUST bought the new tires, so i'm going to be upset if I have to eat a loss on that. I don't have any real reason to change sizes, other than being afraid 15" tires will be phased out. I suppose I could drive until the tires need changing, wheels be damned. I know the junk yard is an option, but i'm likely to find non "true" wheels there too and the exchange policy is non-existent. Any suggestions?

 

[swshawaii]

OEM wheels? If so, should be inexpensive and easy to find. I prefer the higher profile sidewall of stock sizing to retain ride comfort.

The benefit of appearance and cornering with low flex sidewalls isn't worth the sacrifice to me. May not look as "cool" though.

 

[Jawlsey]

OEM wheels? If so, should be inexpensive and easy to find. I prefer the higher profile sidewall of stock sizing to retain ride comfort. May not look as "cool" though.

Considering that i'm probably going to end up lowering it before all is said and done I should probably keep the stock sidewall sizing, for what little ride quality I can afford! I'm having difficulties finding 15 x 7 (or 8) wheels that I like the look of though.

 

[swshawaii]

Same problem. My 16" OEM "teardrop" rims are all turning white from the bubbling factory clear coat.

Good decision. Two door Sports have very a short wheel base and are NOT known for ride quality.

 

[SoNic67]

I've been using stock length SensaTrac's over four years without issues with my 2.5" front/3" rear drop.

The Sensatrac's have a center band of "reduced" damping, that is some 1" in size. That's their Position Sensitive Damping to enhance comfort. It was invented a long time ago, before multi-valving and monotubes.

In your case you are out of that band, the shocks are acting just as cheap Eco-Matic Monroe's now.
Until you hit a deep hole and then, the travel reaches the part with loose damping and when you need the most control... you don't have it.

 

[swshawaii]

Interesting. No complaints regarding ride quality on my 3/2.5 dropped ST. You're right though, deep pot holes are frightening.

http://www.monroe.com/en-US/support/Technical-Training/Shock-Absorbers/