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Starter Hell

Joined
December 5, 2010
Messages
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City, State
Costa Mesa, California
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 XLT
Can't figure this one out. New battery, new relay, starter load tested good, still get the "click, click, click." Any ideas?
 



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starter relay? or solenoid which ever way you want to call it.

btw, try turning the engine with a wrench.. if its locked up it gives the same sound.
 






try hitting it with a solid object like vice grips, crescent wrench, etc. if you took it off and had a local parts store test the starter and it was "good"...hate to say they arent always correct. iv had starter problems before that made it clear it was starter so i took starter to parts store and they said lets test it. i said ok for hell of it and they were like the starters fine something else is your problem, i told em id take a new started anyways. they thought i was crazy but i told em id return it if it didnt work...i went to back to the store, just to tell them it DID WORK lol

and when i say hit it i mean lil more than a hard tap but dont wail on it like its gonna kill you lol. to hard will def damage the internal magnents and such in the starter itself
 






^^^...He's correct as in they are usually wrong on their test...

...Have you ever replaced your battery cables?
 






Starter.

Just went through the same thing a week ago with the F150 tow vehicle at a most inopportune time :(
 






its the starter or a bad connection on the battery.
 






Going through this same problem with a 94. Hope you don't mind me explaining my deal here, as maybe we can figure this out together.

Turn the key, can hear the fuel pump prime, the fender solenoid click, and the starter does not engage.

Was stuck in a Wal-Mart parking lot, so I bought an new battery, (had corrosion on posts and cable), still no go. Tapped the starter a few times, and it worked. Was able to get it home.

Once home, I removed the corroded cable and made my own with new 4 gauge cable and used the stock ground tabs. Still no go. I had a known good starter, so that was installed. Nothing. For grins, the stock fender solenoid was replaced with a new one. It worked! Plus it worked better than ever!

Drove for a month with no problems whatsoever. Then one day, at the post office, same thing happens! Stranded once again! Checked all connections, all good. No corrosion to be found. Tapped the starter a few times, it worked, got it home.

Haven't done anything to it yet, but it has been working for the most part. If it fails to turn the starter over, I have been tapping the starter or bumping the ignition key a few times to get it to crank and fire.

A new starter is expensive, so I have been reluctant to purchase one if this is not the problem. Something is bad here, burning up the starters. 2 in one month, is enough to make me Leary of buying a 3rd.

There has to be something in the system that is causing this starter failure.
 






Thanks for the advice

I have an electrician friend coming over today to check all of the voltages and connections. What was weird was that AAA came out and jumped it and it worked. Then the driver had me turn it off to test everything. After that it wouldn't start. We tried a new starter - same problem. Then we replaced the relay/solenoid (fender wall). Same problem. New battery. I think we are reduced to poor cables/connection or ignition switch. I'll let everyone know what it was so that if anyone gets the same thing in the future there will be one more solution.
 






...Batteries and cables are often overlooked...

...If the battery does not have 12.1 volts anytime before starting, it will effect the starter. If the battery drops down into the upper 10 volt or lower during starting, your battery cranking power is shot...Starter warranties and install information usually has this info included with them..

..Battery cables are often corroded within the sheathing and are notorious for having this result also...(battery cable info)
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=250186&highlight=cables

...I too fell victim to this same problem with a new battery, fender relay, new cables and starter, click click click...;)
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2549392&postcount=276
 






Here is the 92-93 bulletin/notice on no-start condition:

"FORD EXPLORER / MAZDA NAVAJO
NO START CONDITION

1992-1993 Ford Explorers and Mazda Navajos, May exhibit repeated no start conditions. Ford suggests that technicians inspect the condition of the battery cables and any other wiring harness in the vicinity of the battery for signs of corrosion. The condition is easy to spot as the cables will have become swollen and discolored from the battery acid emissions. To cure this condition, all suspect cables should be replaced with new, and a new battery cover (Ford part # F3TZ-1OA687-A) should be installed over the battery to prevent this condition in the future"

Could include 94 I reckon, if you have no battery cover. Corroded wiring will also not want to bend, my connections from battery were all rock hard when I went through this, they don't allow enough amperage through to crank a starter, and when they are corroded just enough, your starter might work, or it might not..
 












...Be careful with the new cables too...(Last link in my last post)...;)

...You can also test voltage at your starter when someone turns the key to the start position before you get the new cables...
 






Thanks again

...Be careful with the new cables too...(Last link in my last post)...;)

...You can also test voltage at your starter when someone turns the key to the start position before you get the new cables...

When the battery was replaced there was corrosion all over it, and the cables were not replaced. Sounds like we are narrowing it down.
 












...They are ok for replacement parts from my experience...

...Have you tested your wires, battery, and starter with the voltmeter test yet?
 






...They are ok for replacement parts from my experience...

...Have you tested your wires, battery, and starter with the voltmeter test yet?

No need. The positive cable is toast. Its rock hard, and has corrosion inside the covering. I cut into it and no matter how far I went, it was the same, fugly.

I ended up ordering a Motorcraft replacement for it, will be here Tuesday.
 






....The only thing I can add about replacement cables is;

...Be sure the new ones are as long if not longer, than your current stock cables...Many companies will sell you an inch or two shorter and say it is the OEM size...Physically check them...;)
 






You nailed it!

^^^...He's correct as in they are usually wrong on their test...

...Have you ever replaced your battery cables?

You nailed it! There was no voltage getting to the starter. Replaced the cables and voila! started right up.

Thanks again, guys!
 






...Glad to hear you got it fixed quickly...:biggthump
 



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Battery cables were always an issue on first generation, probably replaced a couple hundred over the years.
 






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