How to: Step-by-step water pump replacement

[The D]

Reading this sept 2023 and found this very informative and accurate
Thanks for the post. Just wanted to say that it its very important when installing both valve covers to make sure you apply sealant where the 2 parts of the engine are mated together that you apply sealant along both "cracks",
Once you have the covets off you'll see where im talking about, both closer to passenger side. I speak from experience, 2016 PIU 3K after new water pump, both were leaking bad.

I had a little excess that squeezed up when the cover was tightened down but this is a good idea.

Big thanks to the op for this thread. I wasn't even sure if this could be done without dropping the entire engine cradle. I was going to pay to have this done, but after finding this thread, and with my work slowing up enough to allow me a little free time, I decided to give it a try.
As a previous poster mentioned, the 14 EB is quite a bit different. Mine is a GTDI and not the Ti-Vct. 2 solenoids, 2 intake phasers and 2 exhaust sprockets. I'm currently waiting on a M8x1.25 thread chaser to finish clean up. All of my cover bolts had sealant on them and I want to clean the threads up to get proper torque values. With 160k on the clock, I'm sure the timing components had been done already, but with all the parts being OEM, I have no way to know if someone had previously replaced everything, or just the water pump. I bought it used at 91k and its been a great vehicle.
I did opt to purchase all oem parts. I learned my lesson with my 5.4 3 valve on buying aftermarket parts. No Cloyes or Dorman for me as long as I can help it. The only aftermarket part is the Melling HV oil pump. It was a good upgrade on my 5.4 and I think it will be a good upgrade for my 3.5.
My serpentine belt is only a few months old but my tensioner was original. Tensioners were on backorder at the time I replaced the belt. The tensioner was a little stuck, and the alternator was a little noisy when I tore it apart. Both oem replacements are set to be here tomorrow.
I'm happy to share my list of part numbers or any info if it helps out.

Good job, Andy. I’m glad I’ve been helpful. I’ve found that they’re definitely some aftermarket parts that should be avoided, Dorman being one of them. Cloyes, though, can be trusted imo. They’ve been making timing components for a very long time. But it’s always a safe bet on oem parts, pretty much no matter what

 

[peterk9]

Welcome to the Forum Andy.

Peter

 

[Andy14sport]

Running a little behind on my progress, but I should be ready to fire it up tomorrow or Wednesday. Has anyone ever pulled the fuel pump relay (or any other means of disabling) and just let the engine crank over a few times to get oil pressure before firing it up?

 

[mguy13sport]

Running a little behind on my progress, but I should be ready to fire it up tomorrow or Wednesday. Has anyone ever pulled the fuel pump relay (or any other means of disabling) and just let the engine crank over a few times to get oil pressure before firing it up?

Hold the gas pedal and brake pedal at same time while cranking. Release the gas pedal when you want it to start. This tells the ECU to not supply fuel when cranking

 

[donalds]

Running a little behind on my progress, but I should be ready to fire it up tomorrow or Wednesday. Has anyone ever pulled the fuel pump relay (or any other means of disabling) and just let the engine crank over a few times to get oil pressure before firing it up?

Unplug the crank sensor that's my Method

 

[Andy14sport]

Hold the gas pedal and brake pedal at same time while cranking. Release the gas pedal when you want it to start. This tells the ECU to not supply fuel when cranking

Thanks sir. Great advice that worked perfectly. I let it go through 3 tries before I let the engine start.
I did briefly have an engine miss and 2 dtc's pop up. I had a p0001 and p0301 after about 10 minutes of run time. I shut the engine down, restarted and it seems to be fine. I've been searching the manual for the last hour trying to find info on p0001. I haven't found anything good, but I did see that I did not torque the fuel pump bolts properly.

 

[Andy14sport]

So far so good. No more startup rattle, no more chain slap, no more idle surge and most importantly, the power is back.
Anybody got any tricks for stretching the crank pulley bolt? I forgot to stretch it before I removed the cam holding tools.

 

[amberware]

Remember the picture you took of the chain guides? Dig it back out and use it to bolt the 3 static guides onto the block. Then you can put the main chain around the intake adjusters, water pump, & crank sprocket. The crankshaft may have rotated a tiny bit, but you can put the old sprocket back on and rotate a tiny bit with a large pair of channel lock pliers until the dot is back to the 4 o’clock position.

These are pics of all the dots lining up with their respective colored links. Pink link to rear intake cam, gold link to front intake cam, crank dot in between the bottom two gold links
View attachment 435739
View attachment 435740
View attachment 435741

Once all the dots are lined up, it’s important that as much slack as possible is in the section where the tensioner is. Otherwise the camshaft timing will be off, check engine light will probably light up, and engine may not run well. Or worse… Once the chain is oriented correctly, put the tensioner guide onto its dowel then bolt the main tensioner to the block. Double check your double checking. Once you’re confident that all the marks line up, the cam holding plates fit onto the top of the cams and are resting against the heads, & the slack of the chain is in the correct position then you can pull the pin on the main tensioner. If there is a difficult part to this job, this is it. But all you need to do is be careful and double check each step in the cam timing assembly and alignment process.

Next: the last step in the timing process is re-installing the cam adjuster oil line. The bolts that secure this are the bolts that also secure the camshaft bearing caps so they need to be torqued properly, which is approximately 8 ft/lbs. Ford lists a range that can be applied to the bolt so I chose something in the upper end of that range.

View attachment 435754


Congratulations, you’ve gotten the engine set to its base timing. But you’re definitely not done yet. Not even close…

how did you get the chain back between the two cam phasers? I can't seem to get it to go what am I doing wrong? Please help

 

[mguy13sport]

how did you get the chain back between the two cam phasers? I can't seem to get it to go what am I doing wrong? Please help

The secondary chain goes on both cams together if that is what you are asking. Install the secondary chain on both cam phasers and then slide them onto the cams.

 

[amberware]

The secondary chain goes on both cams together if that is what you are asking. Install the secondary chain on both cam phasers and then slide them onto the cams.

No not the secondary chain sorry I should have been more specific being there is three of them. I was having issues with getting the main chain between the two cams but did figure out there's a flat side on the exhaust cam that has to be up against the other cam so the chain will fit through between the two cams phasers. Thank you for your time.

 

[bubbaJames2003]

Next: can you see daylight at the end of the tunnel yet? Once the valve covers are back on, you don’t have much more left. Re-install the engine mount studs and the engine mount itself so the jack can be removed.

Next: the process from here is the reverse of disassembly. Tensioner, belt, plugs, coils, harness, fuel line, intake.

Next: re-fill engine with oil.

Next: fill with coolant. Make sure the front of the vehicle is raised slightly so it’s easier for air to burp out.

My process was this. Fill with oil, then coolant. Connect battery. Start vehicle and change climate controls to full heat/ defrost to get the entire coolant system circulating. Check for any immediate leaks. If none, start putting fender liner back together. Re-check for leaks. Put wheel back on, lower off of jack stand, & torque wheel(100ft/lbs). Re-check for leaks

Very good instructions. Just got done with new water pump and replaced tensioner and one of the cam sensors since I broke it. Only thing differently I did was once chain back on I and cam locks off I turned the engine over per advice from someone that done job before. But after that the cams didn't align anymore and I don't know if turning engine over caused this. But now the truck will start only few seconds then die. It sounds muffled and can smell gas. So I believe the timing is off. Anything you can suggest? Would be appreciated

 

[The D]

Very good instructions. Just got done with new water pump and replaced tensioner and one of the cam sensors since I broke it. Only thing differently I did was once chain back on I and cam locks off I turned the engine over per advice from someone that done job before. But after that the cams didn't align anymore and I don't know if turning engine over caused this. But now the truck will start only few seconds then die. It sounds muffled and can smell gas. So I believe the timing is off. Anything you can suggest? Would be appreciated

Oh, yikes. Turning the engine over shouldn’t be a big deal. Are you absolutely sure you lined everything up/released the tensioners/tightened everything properly before you rotated the engine? Double checking the timing should be done before you start chasing anything else. There’s a small access panel behind the crank pulley to check the lower mark so the whole timing cover doesn’t need to come back off. Unfortunately, the intake and valve covers need to come back off for this

 

[bubbaJames2003]

Oh, yikes. Turning the engine over shouldn’t be a big deal. Are you absolutely sure you lined everything up/released the tensioners/tightened everything properly before you rotated the engine? Double checking the timing should be done before you start chasing anything else. There’s a small access panel behind the crank pulley to check the lower mark so the whole timing cover doesn’t need to come back off. Unfortunately, the intake and valve covers need to come back off for this

Yea. All my marks lined back up. But while turning engine over the tensioner bounced a few times. I believe now this happened because of a lil slack like half tooth. So this likely caused the timing chain to jump therefore caused the top cams to be out of alignment.

So if that's the case I'm just wondering can the engine be set back to correct timin I'm taking to Ford next week and hopefully they will even look at it. I can't get any help from any mechanics out here
No one wants to look at it

 

[Flashflood]

Just got an 08 sable premier with this engine. I knew about the water pump so I went looking for dets. I'm now like and utterly confused. God, I just had to replace an injector on it and just taking off the intake kicked my butt.

 

[wellcraft]

Thank you so much for this how to, mine is a 2017 and has 83k Mike's. Considering in doing it around the 100k miles for piece of mind. Will bookmark this thread.

Thanks again for taking the time