Sticky driver's door lock...alarm goes off.

[SyberTiger]

Is there something or someplace to lube the door lock mechanism?

I always have used the key fob to lock the doors but recently I learned that the driver's door is intermittently not locking although the computer thinks it's locked. I learned this because on several occasions I pulled on the door handle, the door opened and the vehicle horn alarm would start honking. Apparently, I had used the key fob to lock the door but the lock mechanism didn't fully lock the door although the computer thought the lock was engaged. It's the only door that has this problem.

I manually locked each door to check to make sure the doors are getting locked and that works. I wiggled the driver door lock manually back-and-forth several times and now when I use the key fob to lock the doors it seems to be properly locking the driver's door. I've come to the conclusion that it's a little sticky and needs to be lubed somewhere but haven't taken the time to figure out where to shoot it with WD40.

Anyone have the process for lubing the door locks?

 

[fordysenior]

Right through the key hole -- although some people might argue to not use WD-40, but instead use a silicone product or graphite. As for me, I use whatever I already have.

 

[SyberTiger]

Right through the key hole -- although some people might argue to not use WD-40, but instead use a silicone product or graphite. As for me, I use whatever I already have.

I think you are talking about the actual key lock not the door lock mechanism. Only the driver's door has a key lock. The passenger door and rear doors do not have key locks.

 

[fordysenior]

oops, sorry about that --

 

[swshawaii]

How to: Interior lights on - Door Ajar | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

 

[SyberTiger]

How to: Interior lights on - Door Ajar | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

I don't have the door ajar or interior lights on problem....but maybe you are telling me this is how you lube the lock mechanism and stickiness to which I refer?

 

[imp]

@SyberTiger
Regarding WD-40: I used it to prevent rust on my machinery, milling machine and lathe. Once dry, it exhibited a most sticky residue, not slick at all, making movement of the mating parts against each other much more difficult than before. I highly recommend against it. Much better is LPS-2. imp

 

[swshawaii]

Sorry, having a base model XLS, thought the alarm was triggered by the door ajar switch. LATCH lubrication is very easy, although it can be quite messy when it drips down to the door sill and leaks through the drains plugs. Have lots of paper towels or rags handy. Open the door and spray the ENTIRE latch mechanism with a light oil such as WD-40, silicone spray, etc. Repeatedly open and close the door using the inside and outside handle to free it up. After it's moving smoothly, follow with white lithium spray that turns to light grease that will be a much longer term lubricant. Regarding the lock cylinder, many opinions on this. I prefer Tri Flow spray, although I see Lock Ease recommended on many forums.

 

[swshawaii]

@SyberTiger
Much better is LPS-2.

Remember LPS-2 (and LPS-1) USED TO be the go to stuff in the mid Seventies when we were racing boats.

Found out later it literally turned rubber bushings into Silly Putty that you could easily stretch with your fingers.

Maybe the formulation has changed, afraid to go anywhere near it now. LOL

 

[SyberTiger]

I think what's going on is when I use the key fob to lock the vehicle the driver door lock is not all the way activated but the computer thinks the vehicle is locked. So when I pull on the driver door handle and the door opens up the computer somehow thinks I broke into the vehicle because it didn't see the key fob unlock command nor did it see a key used to unlock the door. Kind of like someone smashed the window, reached in and manual flipped the unlock latch inside. I think that what the computer thinks happened although in reality the lock latch isn't activating all the way because the mechanism needs some lube.

 

[imp]

Remember LPS-2 (and LPS-1) USED TO be the go to stuff in the mid Seventies when we were racing boats.

Found out later it literally turned rubber bushings into Silly Putty that you could easily stretch with your fingers.

Maybe the formulation has changed, afraid to go anywhere near it now. LOL

@swshawaii
IMO, any formulation containing petroleum distillates affects rubber adversely, which would include WD-40 as well. One of those rubber types least affected is Neoprene, followed by Viton, which is a rubbery type of Teflon. Silicone rubber is also resistant. The bushings you mention were likely of Buna-N, or Nitrile Rubber, synthetic (man-made) and most affected by oils. Buna-N is of course, the least expensive and easiest to compound, so is extensively used. imp

 

[swshawaii]

imp, the affected bushings were for the hydraulic rams used on both outboard power trim cylinders. What you say makes perfect sense since there are many different "types" of rubber. Thanks for your always detailed and informative replies. Wonder how WD-40 (3-IN-ONE Company) can get away with making this claim?

WHAT SURFACES OR MATERIALS ARE OK TO USE WD-40® MULTI-USE PRODUCT ON?

WD-40® Multi-Use Product can be used on just about everything. It is safe to use on metal, rubber, wood and plastic. It can also be applied to painted metal surfaces without harming the paint. Polycarbonate and clear polystyrene plastic are among the few surfaces on which to avoid using a petroleum-based product like WD-40® Multi-Use Product.

.

 

[SyberTiger]

Sorry, having a base model XLS, thought the alarm was triggered by the door ajar switch. LATCH lubrication is very easy, although it can be quite messy when it drips down to the door sill and leaks through the drains plugs. Have lots of paper towels or rags handy. Open the door and spray the ENTIRE latch mechanism with a light oil such as WD-40, silicone spray, etc. Repeatedly open and close the door using the inside and outside handle to free it up. After it's moving smoothly, follow with white lithium spray that turns to light grease that will be a much longer term lubricant. Regarding the lock cylinder, many opinions on this. I prefer Tri Flow spray, although I see Lock Ease recommended on many forums.

A, B or C?

 

[imp]

imp, the affected bushings were for the hydraulic rams used on both outboard power trim cylinders. What you say makes perfect sense since there are many different "types" of rubber. Thanks for your always detailed and informative replies. Wonder how WD-40 (3-IN-ONE Company) can get away with making this claim?

.

@swshawaii
All I can really say definitively about WD-40 is that I was disappointed in results obtained. If it left my operating surfaces, "ways" they are called, sticky instead of slippery, while it might protect against rust, I needed both protection and slickness. Plain lubricating oil provides that, but is unhandy for spreading over large surfaces. A spray-can is nice. imp

 

[swshawaii]

A, B or C?

Definitely A. Problem is over time the general purpose lithium grease used from the factory collects dust and grit and hardens. Key is flushing out all that junk and get the two latch "claws" moving freely. Hopefully it's not more involved than cleaning and lubing, otherwise the door panel may have to be removed to check for linkage rod issues.

Sybertiger, quite honestly I'm surprised to see this "basic maintenance" post coming from you. I've seen a couple threads you started including your recent 4.6L intake manifold tips and your superb and often referenced PCV elbow vacuum leak thread a while back. Then again, NOTHING on EF surprises me, even coming from the Gurus. LOL

 

[swshawaii]

imp, I'm not a fan of WD-40, brilliant marketing and being the most recognized spray lubricant in the world drives the price down. Being in Hawaii, everything is salt water. Our 99.9 cubic inch in- line six cylinder two stroke racing outboards were primarily aluminum, and VERY expensive due to production runs of less than 100 units. After each race day I would rinse the engine with fresh water, blow dry, and completely spray with WD-40 from a gallon can. After two complete racing seasons (24 months, about 30 events) there was not a spot of rust to be found. When I can buy three 16 ounce spray cans for less than $10 at my local Costco or Sam's, it's my light spray lube of choice for keeping lawn tools from rusting. After all, "WD" does stand for water displacement. My preferred light spray lube has been PTFE (Teflon) based TriFlow for years. Problem is it's not easy to find and never seems to be on sale anywhere, including Amazon. My local Ace Hardware stocks it, but the price is just under $10 for a 12 ounce spray can. Or maybe I'm just addicted, it smells so damn good.

 

[SyberTiger]

My confusion was reading all these threads (numerous comments) about door ajar, dome light, alarm, etc. that has nothing to do with my issue. My car simply thinks the doors are locked but the driver's door is not locked but it is latched.

The problem is trying to understand exactly what is or is not a part of the actual "lock" mechanism...not the latch mechanism. The door closes and latches fine...i.e. the door isn't popping open while I drive. The actuator "sounds" like it's doing it's thing to activate the lock. I wiggled manual lock (C) back-n-forth several times and now it would seem the vehicle is locking properly which led me back to my A, B or C question because it seemed like A was your original answer but trying to figure out how A fixes C was what I was pondering.

In summary, it sounds like you are suggesting I lube the latch...not the lock. But perhaps, on this vehicle it is one and the same. I admit I'm being lazy and threw the question out there because I didn't feel like taking the door panel off to figure out the precise lube points if I didn't have to. Usually, removing the door panel on a 14 year old car ends up with some plastic piece here or there breaking off and then living with the subsequent vibration noises because of said broken plastic pieces.

 

[swshawaii]

Sorry for all the confusion. Sounds like the LATCH is functioning properly. I'm baffled, reading your OP again it sounded
like a latch issue. From your last description you will likely need to remove the panel. Hopefully you can remove it
without breaking anything. If needed, here's a great source for OEM quality clips for a fraction of the Ford dealer price.
GL

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Door_Panel_Retainers_Clips_Ford_p/pas1558-25.htm

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Ford_Clips_And_Fasteners_s/63.htm

 

[SyberTiger]

Sorry for all the confusion. Sounds like the LATCH is functioning properly. I'm baffled, reading your OP again it sounded like a latch issue. Sounds likely you will need to remove the panel to diagnose further. Hopefully you can remove it without breaking anything. If needed, here's a great source for OEM quality clips for a fraction of the Ford dealer price. GL

I was afraid that was going to be the answer. I thought that there was an off-chance you were telling me to shoot some silicon spray behind the manual door lock mechanism (C) and that would do the job. I'm kind of surprised I'm the first to ask this question from what I quickly garnished from doing a forum search.

Oh well, I always appreciate your insight and suggestions! Thanks!

 

[swshawaii]

I had used the key fob to lock the door but the lock mechanism didn't fully lock the door although the computer thought the lock was engaged.

I wiggled the driver door lock manually back-and-forth several times and now when I use the key fob to lock the doors it seems to be properly locking the driver's door.

Thought I was finished here, but two questions. Is the door lock button going all the way down when using the fob? Do you hear a buzzing or whirring noise when using the lock or unlock fob or power lock door buttons? Intermittent or non working power locks can only be caused by four things. Actuator, latch, rod clips, or broken wiring near the hinge. Often times the common fix is just lubricating the sticky latch.