"Stop Leak" Coolant Additive. Which one?

[98FordLove]

You can do a lot with the Ultra Black RTV, and the other colors, grey, red, blue, and copper which is the high heat(suitable for headers). I have also sealed a leaking oil pan on one 302, and an intake manifold that had blown out the rear cork gasket.

If you can clean the area where the leak is completely, fully, the RTV will seal it if it's not under pressure.

This below shows the SOHC upper oil pan, which is aluminum. The lower pan for that is steel and small, flat, much like a transmission pan. The OHV 4.0 has a large metal pan located exactly where the upper pan is in this picture. The SOHC and OHV use almost the same blocks and cranks etc, the SOHC was a redesign of the OHV engine.

View attachment 429648

I was just wondering this tonight too. Even though the mech who just worked on the truck says that RTV black is garbage and it won't do anything. But i was thinking, if I use brake cleaner to spray down the outside of the oil pan and get it as clean as I can, dry it off with an air compressor to blow excess water or oil out/off. And then when it's dry, apply black RTV along the gasket where it's leaking and around that bolt, will it do anything? Even though the RTV will be on the outside of the gasket and not sandwiched inbetween.

When I spray brake cleaner on the oil pan parts where the newly applied JB weld steel stik has been applied. I won't scrub it or be harsh when cleaning it because I don't want to risk damaging the JB weld or it coming off. I hope brake cleaner won't hurt the fully cured JB weld?

What do you mean by under pressure? If the truck is off and oil still in the pan (but cold) does that have any pressure?

 

[Fix4Dirt]

i think it coukd work. i used the rtv ok my timing cover, still no leaks! as long as it makes a nice bead around the bolt should work fine imo. just make sure you can remove the bolt later if needed!

 

[98FordLove]

i think it coukd work. i used the rtv ok my timing cover, still no leaks! as long as it makes a nice bead around the bolt should work fine imo. just make sure you can remove the bolt later if needed!

Thanks. Should I go with RTV black or red? I don't see a black high heat. How did you clean yours, just used brake cleaner? If there is still oil inside the pan behind the gasket, doesn't that put pressure on the seal?

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Thanks. Should I go with RTV black or red? I don't see a black high heat. How did you clean yours, just used brake cleaner? If there is still oil inside the pan behind the gasket, doesn't that put pressure on the seal?

idk about red ive only used blu and black. black works on my timin cover so i dont see why it wouldnt work on the oul pan. i use gasket scraper to remove old gasket, clean with carb cleaner (brakeleen works too) and yeah do it when theres no oil in the system... let it drain a good while... gosh i hate leaks, my rms leaks, so annoying when i park on someone elses driveway always cleaning it up! if i aqquire a 2nd X (maybe, just maybe... there is hope i will have a 2nd problem!) i hope it too doesnt leak!

 

[CDW6212R]

The Permatex Ultra RTV's will survive way more than people think. As long as there's no pressure forcing the fluid(oil pressure, water pressure), the RTV can make a barrier to hold in leaking fluid. The coolant leaks are the best example, typically most of those are under pressure. So don't expect to stop a coolant leak such as a seeping timing cover, generally there is 15psi of pressure forcing that out.

The Ultra Copper is capable of temps in the 1000* range, while the other Ultra RTV colors are similar, say 500* at most.

Clean the surfaces thoroughly, wipe over and over again with a rag or towel with brake cleaner on it, until it is clean. Let it dry a minute or two, and then carefully coat it with RTV. Add another layer after a while, spread it beyond the leak area, all of that gives it a great chance to bond, and be hard to remove later.

 

[donalds]

TankWeld Repair KIT Gas Fuel Metal Tank & oil pan Stop Leak EPOXY J-B WELD 2110 - Google Search

My 2¢

 

[98FordLove]

idk about red ive only used blu and black. black works on my timin cover so i dont see why it wouldnt work on the oul pan. i use gasket scraper to remove old gasket, clean with carb cleaner (brakeleen works too) and yeah do it when theres no oil in the system... let it drain a good while... gosh i hate leaks, my rms leaks, so annoying when i park on someone elses driveway always cleaning it up! if i aqquire a 2nd X (maybe, just maybe... there is hope i will have a 2nd problem!) i hope it too doesnt leak!

Oh darn, so this would be pointless and a waste of time to do then if I don't drain the current oil in the pan?

 

[CDW6212R]

Oil pan leaks are from oil draining back to the pan while running. There is oil in the gasket material or behind it, under it etc. If it was a massive fast leak, then you might be smart to do an oil change. But for most leaks, let it set several hours before cleaning it and coating over the area.

Also be sure to snug all of the pan bolts first, which should have been the first step in hunting the leaks.

 

[blakshukvw]

Another success story here using k seal. It won clog your cooling system or any parts either. Don’t listen to that nonsense. I had a gusher from the timing cover on my 5.0 and it fixed it. Many products like this are used from the factory to seal minor leaks. No worries.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Oh darn, so this would be pointless and a waste of time to do then if I don't drain the current oil in the pan?

its more to prevent oil from contaminating while curing. dunno if it can be done, isuppose you could with the oil in, but not sure.

 

[98FordLove]

I'm pretty sure my head's aren't leaking. The leak that the mech was talking about has been there for the past year or more. I've put on 20k km on the truck since then and I'm pretty sure leaking heads don't last that long before blowing. Plus I would be seeing white smoke out of my exhaust or oil mixed with my coolant. Maybe I'm wrong?

 

[Fix4Dirt]

I'm pretty sure my head's aren't leaking. The leak that the mech was talking about has been there for the past year or more. I've put on 20k km on the truck since then and I'm pretty sure leaking heads don't last that long before blowing. Plus I would be seeing white smoke out of my exhaust or oil mixed with my coolant. Maybe I'm wrong?

if its a pinhole small, may not show up. but i dunno. the more i read this thread, makes me wonder if its better to just pull the dang thing and throw a remanned ohv in and call it a day dont pass go, dont collect 200, just drop remanned in but then you already sunk some $ in, so i get just trying to get it back on the road soon as possible

 

[98FordLove]

its more to prevent oil from contaminating while curing. dunno if it can be done, isuppose you could with the oil in, but not sure.

Ok thanks. Not sure if it's worth it if I'm not draining my oil. I guess I could but a big reason why it didn't work the first time my mech applied red silicone was because he never drained the pan.

if its a pinhole small, may not show up. but i dunno. the more i read this thread, makes me wonder if its better to just pull the dang thing and throw a remanned ohv in and call it a day dont pass go, dont collect 200, just drop remanned in but then you already sunk some $ in, so i get just trying to get it back on the road soon as possible

Reman motor you mean? Would be hard to find one with just 219k km on it. And mine runs super good.

I just wish the oil pan wasn't this much work. But then again this truck is a 1996. Old old technology

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Ok thanks. Not sure if it's worth it if I'm not draining my oil. I guess I could but a big reason why it didn't work the first time my mech applied red silicone was because he never drained the pan.

Reman motor you mean? Would be hard to find one with just 219k km on it. And mine runs super good.

I just wish the oil pan wasn't this much work. But then again this truck is a 1996. Old old technology

yes sir remanned motor. Ford 4.0 V6 engine 97 vin X ohv

 

[CDW6212R]

Ok thanks. Not sure if it's worth it if I'm not draining my oil. I guess I could but a big reason why it didn't work the first time my mech applied red silicone was because he never drained the pan.

Reman motor you mean? Would be hard to find one with just 219k km on it. And mine runs super good.

I just wish the oil pan wasn't this much work. But then again this truck is a 1996. Old old technology

There are many kinds of RTV, and silicone. They are not all the same, most are not very strong like the Ultra RTV's I keep suggesting. The cheap stuff doesn't resist oils and heat as well, plus they will harden faster over time and crack, fall apart, which all silicone's do. Don't call silicone products RTV, and don't mislabel the RTV's as silicone. The automotive RTV products are vastly better than plain silicone like you find in an aquarium.

I don't know what the hell "red silicone" is, but I wouldn't use it on a car, maybe a kitchen drain perhaps, but not on an oil pan that sees 250* and contacts oil.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

There are many kinds of RTV, and silicone. They are not all the same, most are not very strong like the Ultra RTV's I keep suggesting. The cheap stuff doesn't resist oils and heat as well, plus they will harden faster over time and crack, fall apart, which all silicone's do. Don't call silicone products RTV, and don't mislabel the RTV's as silicone. The automotive RTV products are vastly better than plain silicone like you find in an aquarium.

I don't know what the hell "red silicone" is, but I wouldn't use it on a car, maybe a kitchen drain perhaps, but not on an oil pan that sees 250* and contacts oil.

the conditions our motors are subjected to are much worse than a fish tank. heating, cooling, freezing sometimes, or if youre me, possibly the pan scraping on a rock (i need a skid plate )

 

[98FordLove]

yes sir remanned motor. Ford 4.0 V6 engine 97 vin X ohv

Ya if you have to remove the motor in my truck just to replace the pan and gasket, may as well do an engine swap. Taking it that the new reman has all new seals, heads, mileage reset?

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Ya if you have to remove the motor in my truck just to replace the pan and gasket, may as well do an engine swap. Taking it that the new reman has all new seals, heads, mileage reset?

yes sir! all new heads, seals, etc! its supposed to be pretty much as good as new. if i ever pull my motor, its getting a remanned one...

 

[Raph X.]

I'll likely just keep topping it up. I picked up a bottle of Liquid Moly Oil Saver just now and threw it in the oil. I've used it 3 times previously and I do remember it improving the oil pan leak with less drops on the floor. It never got rid of the drops onto the floor but it did help.

So giving it one more try and if it helps then ill order a 6pk on amazon (much cheaper) and just go this route. Last night I was getting 3-4 good size drops onto the floor just from within the first 30mins of shutting the truck off after a drive. That's bad. This morning I saw a good size puddle about the diameter of 3"

Remember I just shampooed and pressure washed the entire under side of the engine bay before the repair so everything was dry after including the oil pan. It's nowhere near as oily under right now as before but it's enough to drop oil to the floor.

Tell ne more about how you cleaned the under carriage ive been trying to clean it off of built up gunk but can only tackle it small bits at a time. I need tips to make the proccess faster.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Tell ne more about how you cleaned the under carriage ive been trying to clean it off of built up gunk but can only tackle it small bits at a time. I need tips to make the proccess faster.

pressure wash, decreaser, scrube where you can. if you want you can use somehting like gunk engine cleaner, or APC i typically use engine cleaner just to spray down large sections, then pressure wash and use apc and a medium bristle brush as necesary. then respray with the washer... usually thats how i clean it, seems to work fine, for mud at least