Stroking an Explorer 5.0L engine? | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Stroking an Explorer 5.0L engine?

Boy they sure look great in the pictures don't they.

I think I can still easily have one made for under $250. The balancer I know will work is around $75, and the trigger wheels can be had usually from spare Explorer parts. I don't know how much of a discount I got because I had them work on two, and one was close to being finished(an example of the main process).

My plan was to eventually make another one for my next engine, and likely build a third as a spare. I was probably going to start with that SFI balancer I mentioned before. Right now I cannot afford to spend money on those kind of future parts for myself.

Dale, you may be finding more sources for 28oz balancers which can be modified like ours. Let me look harder at the backside of mine, the key is where the steel ends on the back of them, to be able to build a mounting ledge there.
 



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Dorman balancer

I found a new Dorman 70-76, 77 Ford Maverick/Mustang/P-350 Harmonic Balancer for 302 V8 for $83+$10 shipping on eBay that looks promising. The OEM PN is D8TZ 6316-B and the Hollander PN is 309-290B. It didn't list the Dorman number so I'll have to research that to determine the diameter and confirm the external balance. Here's a photo:
70to77Bal302.jpg

I should be able to purchase a used Explorer balancer for $50. I don't have any idea what the 94/95 Cobra pulley or machine work would cost. I've read on the Mustang forums that some Cobra owners swap their stock pulley to an underdrive to gain power. If I could find an aftermarket manufacturer I could probably get a new pulley for $50 plus shipping.
 






That balancer is most likely too thick, the weight mass is all on the outermost section. The one I used has a lot of material on the center section of the back. The ledge that the trigger wheel would mount onto is cut into the back inner portion, and a metal ring is attached there.

For the many balancers like that one, the outer metal of the back part is right where the trigger wheel needs to go. It wouldn't make sense to try to work with any other OEM balancers, or versions of them which aren't any better than the one I used. The only good reason to do that is if a better part is being gained.

The Cobra pulley is unique in its size, the stock 94/95 pulley is much too big, and all of the aftermarket underdrive pulleys are much too small.

I called my Ford parts man, and their new system will not let them see any customer history. Meaning I couldn't get the part number from him. I'll try to find it in my invoice records.
 






Hey StreetRod, quick favor if you could, I need a good pic of the 5.0 PCV valve line and where it runs too.. I have a huge vacuum leak, and it's because It never had that line put back on, we missed it and I've been running it without it..
 






PMs sent

Hey StreetRod, quick favor if you could, I need a good pic of the 5.0 PCV valve line and where it runs too.. I have a huge vacuum leak, and it's because It never had that line put back on, we missed it and I've been running it without it..

Check your Personal Messages. I sent you two PMs with PCV valve photos.
 






I DON'T KNOW BUT MAYBE I WAS A GUINEA PIG AFTER READING THIS... I raised a few eye brows reading this thread... Back at the beginning of 2009 i installed a 306 shortblock (all stock parts) from 50resto and never took any balancing issues into consideration. The motor lasted 17k miles and then the **** lost oil psi one day so bad that i had to keep the motor at hi revs to achieve oil pressure. Was throwing a stock balancer from the explorer on a 306 motor a mistake or are the issues with balancers in regards to 331 or 347's. My explorer took that poop on me last winter. I am now finaly about to drop the cash on a new shortblock and want to get a 331 with 10 to 1 compression.

thanks
 






nevermind..

here is what I understand..

50oz is stock 302ho balancer and the strocked 302's get balanced using the 28ox balancer.. got it!!
 






The way I understand it is that the Mustang 5.0's and the stroker kits (which were designed for Mustangs) have the 28oz, with internal balancing, and Explorer 5.0's are the 50oz, externally balanced. If you used stock Explorer parts than the stock balancer should be fine. If the rotating assembly was for a Mustang, it should have had a 28 oz balancer.
 






The way I understand it is that the Mustang 5.0's and the stroker kits (which were designed for Mustangs) have the 28oz, with internal balancing, and Explorer 5.0's are the 50oz, externally balanced. If you used stock Explorer parts than the stock balancer should be fine. If the rotating assembly was for a Mustang, it should have had a 28 oz balancer.

No, the 5.0L from the early 80's on up were all 50 oz. It didn't matter if it was a car or a truck. The only 28oz stuff came in the way of 351 Windsors.
Also, you refer to the 28oz as internal balanced. That is not the case. Internal balance would be a "0" balance.
 






Is a flywheel weighting offset?
 






Yes the late 302's are all 50oz balanced. The problem is that almost all stroker cranks are either 28oz balanced or zero(internally) balanced. Those stroker cranks don't have enough extra metal on them to make changing the balance easy to do. Most good shops will tell you that and refuse to do it.

All Ford externally balanced engines have part of the balancing weight on the flywheel/flexplate as well as the balancer. So the flexplate also has to be a matching balanced part, plus the right tooth count for the starter used. Regards,
 






what flexplate?

. . .
All Ford externally balanced engines have part of the balancing weight on the flywheel/flexplate as well as the balancer. So the flexplate also has to be a matching balanced part, plus the right tooth count for the starter used. Regards,

Thanks for clearing that up Don! So what flexplate would I need that is compatible with the 4R70W and the Explorer starter?
 






I'd contact Jim Woods(Woody) of Fordstrokers, they built my engine. A good engine builder should know what the tooth count of most transmissions used for their engines. I'd have to ask them because I can't remember if it's a 164 tooth flexplate, or another number. Any supplier of the flexplates will have anything you want, and they may also be good sources to ask that.
 






In my situation I got a 164 tooth flexplate that is typically used for the 5.4 mod motors.
Len from lentech automatics who supplied my trans and torque converter suggested this combo due to the 11.5" torque converter that was selected for my parts combo. This flexplate was sent to the engine builder (fordstrokers) and balanced with everything else.

It was really good because Len (trans guy) and Jim (engine guy) spoke to each other on the phone to make sure everything would work and to be on the same page.
 






Very good Brad, I thought we needed a 164 tooth part.
 






SO how did u get a stock appearing looking balancer on a 331/347.. ??? I am getting a damn 331.. thanks
 






SO how did u get a stock appearing looking balancer on a 331/347.. ??? I am getting a damn 331.. thanks

I paid my machine shop to build one with the parts mentioned here, pictured on the previous page.

FYI, do not buy or build a 331(332 actually). A 347 built with the modern parts available is just as reliable as any 332. When the first 347's were built there were only one or two choices of rods and pistons, thus those had some oiling problems. That was over 15 years ago, now there are dozens of different stroker rod and piston choices. The only way you could have those old problems, is if you find one of those old strokers or have one built with those poorly chosen set of parts. The best engine builders know which are the best stroker parts.
 






piston pin & oil control ring groove

New stroker kits, short and long blocks are still readily available with pistons that have pin bores that intersect the oil control ring groove. I believe these are the ones that have potential oil consumption problems.
 






New stroker kits, short and long blocks are still readily available with pistons that have pin bores that intersect the oil control ring groove. I believe these are the ones that have potential oil consumption problems.

No doubt, and a knowledgeable buyer should never buy one of those. Everyone reading this should have no trouble finding a properly built 347. Talk with Fordstrokers, they are still the best deal given the highest quality engine you're going to get. They will not build one of those archaic 347's. They(he(Woody)) know(s) everything there is to know about them, and the stuff you have never heard of.

You can now buy 302 based engines with sizes of 352/355/357 cubic inches, still without cylinder oiling problems. I wouldn't do those though unless it's for racing, for that last 10-20hp you want for some odd class racing. For the extra money some things cost, step up to a stronger block, and poof, you're dealing with a 363CI engine that can turn 8000rpm.

Just the properly built 347 is plenty for most people, try to work with that. Regards,
 



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Thread necro apologies...

I may have a line on a 347 shortblock to use in place of my screwed up 5.0. Assuming everything's in good condition and the final price is right - can someone confirm what I'd need to get it in place?
28 ounce main pulley with the Explorer crank trigger - looks like I can get that from DamperDudes for about $200.
28 ounce flex plate that matches the starter. Not sure on the source on that yet...

Assuming I run the stock GT40P heads and intake, what else does that leave? I'd eventually get a tune, and may need to sort out a larger MAF and/or injectors, but those are easy to sort out later in the process. I'm trying to confirm what piston and rod setup the 347 is set up with so I can figure out compression ratio...
 






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