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Stuck headbolt..

NorwegianFord

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Year, Model & Trim Level
Explorer '91 XLT
-91 XLT. Removing the head on passenger side. One bolt stuck, doesn't move at all.. :( Dead-scared of destroying the bolt!

What can I do?

This far I have tried: removing the bolt with the right torx bit T55, screaming, crying and a using a lot of words that I wont repeat here..
 



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you might try heating the bolt very hot-let it cool, then try to "tighten " it in just a tad-this sometimes helps break the bolt loose.

Also-an impact of some sort might help-
 












just keep heating it until it breaks loose you will get it, just don't try to rush it and force it too hard. Let the heat do the work. Be sure to replace that bolt before re-assembly.
 






just keep heating it until it breaks loose you will get it, just don't try to rush it and force it too hard. Let the heat do the work. Be sure to replace that bolt before re-assembly.

Just a heads up...

The head bolts are TTY (torque to yield).. use once, then throw away...

~Mark
 






geesh I'm starting to believe that every bolt on these things are TTY gone are the days of re-usable parts.
 






Thanks! Finally got the bolt off and new bolts are bought.. :)

Now I can't get the head off.. :help: This is really challenging for my patience.. :D Haynes manual says "carefully pry it off if it's stuck" yeah..right..

I've done a lot of work on this Exploder but this is the most frustrating this far.. Spent too many hours trying to get that "%#/" head off.. Dreaming of a fat bank account and a new truck right now.. :D
 












Oh yes, all the bolts are off.. Really can't understand why it's stuck like this.. :censored: Can't find anything that should hold it back..
 












I did..everything that is supposed to come off is off.. Can pry it just a little at the front, seems it's stuck further back. Don't want to pry to hard either if I might be able to use this head, cause I'm not sure yet if it's enough to put on a new gasket or if I need a new head..
 






When I removed a set that had close to 200k miles on them they were really on there.. I pryed (sp?) up using a pry bar on the front and the back once I was 200% sure I had all the bolts out (I almost missed one)...

The locating pin is what seems to make it stick.. once I got it to break free it came right off..

OH yea... I'm assuming you pulled the lower intake off. That has to come off to get the heads off.

~Mark
 






As soon as I started using my own head, I got the heads off.. :) Thank you, Maniak!

This is what the head on the drivers side looks like. It's the end that faces the firewall.. Sad..how did it get that bad..
 

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Thats a good sign.. Thats just a freeze plug (also called an expansion plug).. You just knock them out and put new ones in..

If they are that bad though, I'd change the ones on the side of the block since it is easier to do with the heads off..

Still get those heads checked as they are prone to cracking.. If you end up getting new/rebuild heads.. get the ones stamped 93TM instead of the ones stamped 90TM.. They are "supposed" to be less prone to cracking..

BTW.. thats caused by corrosion.. You need to change your coolant more often and make sure the engine is grounded well.

~Mark
 






Thanks!

I'm sorry but I'm not sure I understand what you mean exactly by "..the ones on the side of the block.." Would you please explain some more?

Corrosion, yes, actually I have changed the coolant quite often (in the short period I've had the car) and it has always been "rusty".. So, it's caused by lack of grounding? Could it be any other reasons?

Rikard
 






"freeze plug (also called an expansion plug).." The same thing as a "Cylinder head plug"? I might as well ask since this is all new to me.. :)

Rikard
 






There are 3 freeze plugs on each side of the block.

You can see 3 of them in this pic.. (they are shiny copper looking round things on the side of the gray part of the engine).

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What worries me though is if they are all like that, you may end up with a leaking on at the back of the motor. To get to those you have to drop the transmission.

My guess is that the PO (previous owner) didn't maintain the cooling system and you got corrosion started.. The engine needs to be flushed with some cleaner (acid cleaner) BUT the corrorsion may be the only thing keeping those freeze plugs from leaking so you could be taking a chance by running the cleaner through it. Its like switching a neglectec engine to synthetic fluid. The synthetic may help get rid of the gunk in the engine which could make leaks start as the old gunked oil was what was keeping it from leaking.

~Mark
 






"freeze plug (also called an expansion plug).." The same thing as a "Cylinder head plug"? I might as well ask since this is all new to me.. :)

Rikard

Yup.. all the same.. cylinder head plug though means its for the head and I can't remember if the ones on the head are the same size as the ones on the block.

Also, if your getting the heads checked/rebuilt they will put new plugs in there.

~Mark
 






This is?

Anyone can tell me what this is? Broke the plastic fitting to the fuelline(?) that's connected to it on the top.. Old hard plastic that broke like nothing.. What is it? And what do I do/what kind of connection do I need to fit the fuel line back on? Do I have to replace it or will another fitting be enough? What I'm trying to find out is what it's called so that I can order what I need from the US on internet.. :) I'm really having a hard time here in Norway finding replacement parts and tools for this car.. It's not like a can go to the local Ford dealer or to a car parts shop here.. They only have parts for european and asian cars in this country.. :)

Sorry about the lousy picture quality..


Rikard
 

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Thats a fuel pressure regulator..

You have a 1991 so you can only use the lines (and fpr) from a 1991 and early 1992 vehicles.

DannyBoy broke his FPR line (farther down) and I believe he got a set of lines from 410Fortune (I think). He was then able to use a FPR from a 1992/1993/1994 Explorer. The later fittings on the FPR a normal wrench style instead of a funky connector like yours has.

~Mark
 






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