Supercharger install 9+lb boost! Full build

[donalds]

Here is a pic of the old one

 

[donalds]

EPIC FAIL
no temp changes
Worth a shot tho

 

[CDW6212R]

Worth a shot, anything may be helpful.

I'd like to think about using the AC to cool the intercooler coolant, but I'm not sure if that will be needed, plus it would be a good sized project. A vacuum pump may help, but again it may not be enough to justify $1000 or more. The Safeguard Vampire might be a good early step for protection and maximum timing. I'm not aiming at your truck, just ideas that may affect any upgraded combination with boost. The catch can seems like a normal device now, but like the EGR, or meth injection, I'd like to keep things stock until there's a reason to change.

 

[donalds]

The j&s safeguard vampire is gonna happen

The catch can on the Pcv fresh air inlet hose catches oil only under boost
The oil separator mod I did works wonders
I removed the throttle body to check everything is dry now .....way better...
The Pcv system is perfect

I just wanted to give this a shot
I now have 2 replacement ss egr hoses sale on moddbox website got 2 for $30

 

[CDW6212R]

The oil management is well worth working on for this kind of engine. We don't want to have to run a catch can, due to the constant maintenance, but it's far better than letting oil and/or crud end up in places you don't want it.

I've looked at a vacuum pump as a thought, but I'm really doubtful it would gain any power, or stop the need for external oil control. If one of those could keep the inside clean without pumping too much oil out, I'd want one. But the cost of those is high, and usually those are for high rpm and/or high boost engines. I'll leave that kind of idea to last if possible.

 

[94Eddie]

EPIC FAIL
no temp changes
Worth a shot tho

I am not real familiar with your setup but could you fab up and fit a spacer between the blower and lower intake? Even one an inch or two thick? This might allow fitting a few injection nozzles after the blower. You would probably need four smaller nozzles to get good coverage with a thinner spacer. There would be other things to consider like belt length etc.

I'm just thinking out loud. It is easy for me to be flagrant with your time, effort and funds.

 

[donalds]

I'm just thinking out loud. It is easy for me to be flagrant with your time, effort and funds.

You're fine

I did think about a spacer I got 1 inch or less space before the SC pulley hits the hood

Its 103 out today and the max intake temp was 150ish under boost 140ish normal driving

 

[Blown]

EGR lowers combustion temps to prevent predetonation by lowering the amount of Oxygen and increasing the water vapour content to the combustion mixture....................................but who needs the exhaust heat? Good idea and I see they are cooling EcoBoost EGR:

WTF??? | Ford EcoBoost Engines Now Have EGR Coolers

WTF??? | Ford EcoBoost Engines Now Have EGR Coolers Well this is a new one. We recently had a 2019 Ford Ranger FX4 in for testing. For those unfamiliar with the specs of Ford's reborn small'ish truck, it is currently only available with a 2.3L EcoBoost 4-Cylinder engine and the 10R80...

www.svtperformance.com

 

[donalds]

EGR lowers combustion temps to prevent predetonation by lowering the amount of Oxygen and increasing the water vapour content to the combustion mixture....................................but who needs the exhaust heat? Good idea and I see they are cooling EcoBoost EGR:

WTF??? | Ford EcoBoost Engines Now Have EGR Coolers

WTF??? | Ford EcoBoost Engines Now Have EGR Coolers Well this is a new one. We recently had a 2019 Ford Ranger FX4 in for testing. For those unfamiliar with the specs of Ford's reborn small'ish truck, it is currently only available with a 2.3L EcoBoost 4-Cylinder engine and the 10R80...

www.svtperformance.com

Yea I have come to the conclusion that just one tube cools enough

 

[4pointslow]

EGR coolers have been around for years on diesel vehicles.
One issue that cooling egr gases brought about was carbon build up, when the gases cool down carbon forms.
Ford has used egr valves before and after egr coolers, 6.0L and 6.4L had egr valves after the coolers and were prone to more carbon build up hanging the valves open. When Ford came out with the 6.7L diesel they made a lot of changes, a hot side egr valve was used meaning the valve was right before the cooler and it has less problems with the valve itself.
Now imagine hard carbon deposits getting sucked into your supercharger.

 

[donalds]

Now imagine hard carbon deposits getting sucked into your supercharger

That would suck

 

[CDW6212R]

That's a good thought. I'd like to use the EGR for the intended benefits, but if I thought any power was to be gained, I might limit the flow more with a restrictor.

 

[donalds]

That's a good thought. I'd like to use the EGR for the intended benefits, but if I thought any power was to be gained, I might limit the flow more with a restrictor.

I thought about a restrictor but wouldn't the egr just open more to achieve the command flow
Or does the dpfe sensor only look for a difference in vacuum over the egr tube

 

[CDW6212R]

I was thinking of downstream for a restrictor, but I'm not sure how the system works. I would optimize everything first as it was and the upgrades, and then sneak up on final tweaks. You are there, congratulations, so keep at it, the fine tune etc.

I'd improve the oil capacity, external filters, add a same large pair of filters for the transmission, deeper trans pan, and every Sonnax part available too if it isn't done already. Those I'd call the weakest links for a severe duty vehicle, fluid condition and capacity, everything for the trans is needed, and the engine things for maximizing the combination(tune, IAT's etc).

 

[donalds]

The trans has been upgraded as much as it can be
And I told him about my supercharger plans ......it will hurt your neck when it shifts ...
Also I trust him
I do have a trans filter
I do see the good that extra fluid would do tho

 

[CDW6212R]

The stock oil filter is about a 15 micron level filter, and I read lately that the trans is more coarse, say 60 microns. I'm sure aftermarket inline trans filters are much better, I don't know what they are. The engine oil bypass filters are made for 2-3 microns, which is what all big rigs use, and they get 4-500,000 miles from their engines at the least. I would want a bypass filter for the engine and the trans, for long term life, to keep the fluid super clean. But those are about $40 each and good for about two years of life. Adding external filters is almost a big project, but nothing like the pre-oiler system. I think there is plenty of room in these Explorers, for a pair of filters mounted up front, and two along the side near the trans(on frame).

The typical bypass filter systems are expensive, but I found a single remote filter mount(about $50 or so) that can be used for a bypass filter, if a restrictor(.060") is created in the line to that filter. The pre-made mounts in a kit have a restrictor built into them, and the kits run $200ish and more. I haven't had an engine worthy yet of that level, but I bought most of the bits and pieces, minus hoses and fittings.

 

[Blown]

This is of the immediate topic a bit, but here goes, I read a bit on using a lower temp. thermostat. It seems the biggest concern is causing engine parts to wear more at lower temps. On start-up, yes the oil is in the pan and not providing lubrication, but the engine and oil are also not hot enough. The clearances will change as the engine parts warm and the oil viscosity changes. The thermostat stays closed till it gets to a good operating temp and then opens. That warms-up the engine for good running without as much wear as when cold. I did not find anyone running under a 160 degree thermostat unless it was for racing and specific circumstances.

 

[donalds]

That's what I'm running A 167 t stat
I have the fan turn on at 177 lol
Its stays there to
I don't think I have ever heard the fan at full beans unless I hit the manual over ride
The fan controller is PWM 60%-100%

 

[CDW6212R]

The 160 thermostat is a good choice for performance, but the PCM tune needs to be checked, some programming may not allow closed loop until a temperature near that range. The closed loop point needs to be lower than the T'stat rating by a decent amount. Cooler temps do mean better power, and real testing shows no measurable wear difference when using any rated T'stat. Higher wear at actual cold temps is expected and normal, but that is the normal temps of the first couple of minutes the engine runs, not after everything warms up a few miles down the road.

 

[CDW6212R]

That's what I'm running A 167 t stat
I have the fan turn on at 177 lol
Its stays there to
I don't think I have ever heard the fan at full beans unless I hit the manual over ride
The fan controller is PWM 60%-100%

That's very good. I had my 99 SOHC running around 185*, using a 180 T'stat and the DCC electric fan controller. I plan to step down a level with my next nice engines.