I put a set of those on my wife's Malibu, and haven't had a problem. But if you will be towing or offloading, take J_C's advice and go name brand. I think rock auto has powerstops for just over 200 front and rear pads and rotors.
I bought mine off Amazon. Kit came with the oversized bolts, sleeves, washers, and the energy suspension bushings. Plus I bought the energy suspension swaybar mount bushings for the front and rear. I will have to look back more than a year ago on Amazon to see what I paid but I think it was less than $50 for all of it.Everyone's entitled to their own opinion but mine is that Detroit Axle parts are generic chinese import junk. I'd get a major brand rotors, and pads is a long topic onto itself but I've been happy with Autozone Duralast Gold ceramics, which have a lifetime warranty so pay once and free pads for life thereafter, though I got them years ago as first replacement set so "for life" was a longer amount of time (similar major brand ceramics are cheaper on Rock Auto or Amazon w/o a lifetime warranty), and if you tow a lot then severe duty semi-metallics may be the better option.
Front swaybar end links, when (not if) my newer design Moogs fail again, I'm definitely doing it the way Swhawaii did his, already have the larger diameter sway bar bolts (lifetime replacement from Autozone but I didn't want their crap bushings so bought Moog before realizing they had changed the bushing design) but those larger diameter bolts/sleeves/washers/nuts kit can be hand in a kit on Rock auto for under $10 (plus S/H), then I'd just not use the bushings in the kit, instead those oversized Energy Suspension listed in the topic below:
Sway Bar Links
i have installed on my ex the eibach sway bar kit...In the begining of the year i had to replace my sway bar link bushings because the eibach bushings that came with the kit were worn down and the links were loose... As of yesterday i have the same problem and my links are loose again...my ex...www.explorerforum.com
Okay that explains a lot I have the whole picture now and mine and will post updates as soon as I'm finished. As for the break rotors and pads guy a it's all good I mean we all can't afford something at some point but I won't be telling or anything like that just me myself and Merc. Besides all this stuff I'm doing I've never done before so I feel good about myself doing stuff on myself and by myself of my stuff appreciate everybody will post updates when done with pictures
It's all good man. Been there done that. I know what it is to be broke. Do what you can when you can.
One day for sure we all gona get to the tip, the sky is the limit. Just have to have the right mind set
But did it include the 9.8103 or the smaller 9.8105 ES bushings? More likely the 9.8105 as that is the part # Energy Suspension specifies for these vehicles while the 9.8103 is a part you have to modify to make them fit (literally won't fit in the mounts otherwise), have maybe 50% more bushing material.
Well everything went smooth radio turned on and everything but to my surprise it don't work apparently there is something from factory floor on Kenwood that a chip or something needs to be reflow. The video said to pass a heat to the motherboard and I don't have a blow dryer but other than that everything went smooth got my harness and everything else
I'm glad you got it in, but sucks that it doesn't work. I have never heard of putting heat to anything on a radio unless you are resoldering something on the board. I will have to look into that. It's been years ago, but I was a professional installer. Did quite a few multi-thousand dollar systems with screens, multiple amps, subs, component speakers, custom fiberglass enclosures and speaker pods.
I don't remember part numbers or exact sizes, but the hardware was larger and the bushings were extremely hard and damn near impossible to open up and get around the swaybar itself.But did it include the 9.8103 or the smaller 9.8105 ES bushings? More likely the 9.8105 as that is the part # Energy Suspension specifies for these vehicles while the 9.8103 is a part you have to modify to make them fit (literally won't fit in the mounts otherwise), have maybe 50% more bushing material.
Sway Bar Links
i have installed on my ex the eibach sway bar kit...In the begining of the year i had to replace my sway bar link bushings because the eibach bushings that came with the kit were worn down and the links were loose... As of yesterday i have the same problem and my links are loose again...my ex...
I have the other parts to do this again with either bushing size, so two sets of 4x 9.8103 is around $16 at a few places, with free S/H at amazon.
Amazon product ASIN B000CNB58Q
I have to find something else for my front sway bar bushings, did (forget brand) polyurethane a few years ago and getting tired of greasing them every summer to get rid of squeaking, maybe a less grippy type of plastic machined out to the right dimensions is what I'm looking for instead of polyurethane, or just a harder polyurethane as they only squeak in the heat of summer but then they do it constantly.
Yeah I looked it up and sometimes you have to reflow it like the Xbox 360 they were saying I turned it on and it worked and forgot to take a picture cuz I was messing around with the radio trying to figure it out turned out the truck started cleaning up when it turned it on again take a picture you just went black but I'm going to try that reflow thing I'm going to pass a blow dryer over it and hopefully it works
Never had an Xbox 360. Keep me posted. Let me know how it works
Yeah I never had one either but I hope the guy said so I'll keep you posted as soon as I find a blow dryer. Right now I'm on my way to Lowe's to get some feedings to install the additional fan and then come back put the rear end sway bar and links bushings and then the fan hopefully by then I'll have a blow dryer right hands and will try to fix good radio Kenwood
Everything is all set up, after couple of hours for not having the adjustable and necessary and the correct equipment. East mountaineers are all similar to the Explorer except for little details like this one in which the sway bar is positioned different it is on top of the frame and it was a reduced space to remove the bolt I couldn't even take out the sway bar as it was everything so not giving space I have to remove the the rotor and everything but that's a probably for another time but for now everything is going good got my sway bar bushings and end link bushings went for a test drive and is quiet no more rattling sound. ACDELC brand for the rear end links. What u think about those J. C? Let me know. I'll probably switch over the link to the old one it had just add over the bushings and cap to the front ones. Appreciate everybody for their time
