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Switching to Synthetics, what do i need to know??

jiimi

Active Member
Joined
May 2, 2000
Messages
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City, State
St. Mary's County, MD
Year, Model & Trim Level
'92 4door 4wd XLT
Ive decided to completely switch to synthetics, either Mobil 1, or Amsoil.

So far i plan on doing, Engine oil (has been for the past year), ATF (complete change using the buckets and cooler return line method), Front and rear diff.

Am i missing anything????
My next quetion is do i need special additives for the rear diff, i have been told that if i have limited slip that i do. I have a 92 XLT 4door 4wd, and don't know if i have limited slip, how would i find out?

Second, is Synthetic ATF universal? i don't remember seeing mercon, dextron, or any differnt kind of Mobil or Amsoil ATFs, do i need an additive?

Third are there any tools, parts, or other things i should know before i do this? Im figuring it should be easy, but i have a habbit of missing one thing making an easy job a pain in the A$$, any special tools? I plan on keeping up matinence so a few bucks on a special tool is well worth it.
 



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Smart move to go synthetic.

You can get Amsoil products at a special price from AgExplorer, her is an Amsoil Dealer and a damn good guy who offers excellent service. I highly recommend him.
 






jiimi-

Only way to know if you have limited slip is to check the Trans code on the drivers door sticker. I don't know what the code is for '91 so I would read through your manual if you still have it. It will tell you where to look to check and what to look for.

Also, don't forget the Transfer case, if its the auto transfer case it probably has regular transmission fluid in it too.

Dave
 






I run Mobil 1 synthetic in my LS rear and have never added anything to it.

Good luck.....
 






When you do the oil change, you might want to add one of the Fram Oil Drain kits. Take a look at Dead Link Removed

This device really works and saves a lot of mess.

Good luck.....
 






if you use the Amsoil gear lube,no additive is needed either,I have an Eaton Posi in the rear,and use the Amsoil gear lube series 2000 75W-90 {it's GL-2 through GL-5}.
 






do yourself a BIG favor and install a drain plug in the tranny pan. it will save major headakes later on. it takes about 5 minutes to do(since you will already have the pan off.) also, i have B&M Trick Shift synthetic in my tranny, and its great stuff. Mobil 1 in the motor and rear end. if you use synthetic in the rear you will not need the L.S. additive.
 






Just remember, do not use synthetic (motor) oil as a subsitute for changing your oil every 3000 miles. No matter what anyone tells you (i am a former quaker state rep) synthetic oil does not increase oil service life. Because of the contaminants produced by combustion, the oil and more importantly, the filter, will still be loaded up with the exact same amount of carbon, acids, and wear particles as when you use standard oil. Dont get me wrong, synthetic oil does reduce wear and friction, but there is NO subsitute for good preventitive maintainance habits....

Wheel on!!!
 






I use Amsoil 0 w 30 now and will change the oil at 10k and the filter at 5k.

Prior to this I used the same weight Mobil 1 and chamged at first 3k then went to 5k and then to 7k with no signs of trouble ( based on oil analysis ).
 






Originally posted by mrorayus
Just remember, do not use synthetic (motor) oil as a subsitute for changing your oil every 3000 miles. No matter what anyone tells you (i am a former quaker state rep) synthetic oil does not increase oil service life. Because of the contaminants produced by combustion, the oil and more importantly, the filter, will still be loaded up with the exact same amount of carbon, acids, and wear particles as when you use standard oil. Dont get me wrong, synthetic oil does reduce wear and friction, but there is NO subsitute for good preventitive maintainance habits....

Wheel on!!!
Dead Link Removed

I've had this dual remote bypass setup (bmk-13) mounted in behind the grill for 25k,I haven't changed my oil since these filters were installed,I of course change the filters,the sdf-15 every 5k,and the bypass every 10k,
I have been on an analysis program,sending in samples every 10k.
I'm getting wonderful results !!!!
the oil gets dark,but it's not dirty !!

with the extra oil in the system,about 2 quarts or more,and the filter mount in the grill,it's running much cooler.

the bypass setup filters all the oil in a 6 quart system in about 5 minutes when the engine is running at the equivalent to 45 mph !

so yes....you can get extended drain intervals WITH the proper filtration.
 






Bill, I want to do the same filter set up you have, please provide details about the install and some pics.

Thanks.....
 






the plate is mounted (welded) in my grill.
I'll e-mail you some photos right now,post them if you like,I just can't figure out how to do it again?
 






Here is the pic that Bill sent me to post....
 

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another.....
 

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more from Bill......
 

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the under chassis shot shows the very durable cloth covered hose routing under the truck.I thought I had one of the re-locater plate,but I may have gotten rid of it when I deleted some older pics ?,if yo guy's want to see a pic of that let me know,and it's no big deal.

the other 2 show where the plate is welded,and the petcock valve at one end for taking samples !

hope this gave you an idea of how good this filtration setup is !
 






Are you able to remove/replace the filters w/o removing the grill?
 






One more question ( for now at least ).... why did you mount behind grill rather than some other location?

Thanks.....
 






I couldn'd find a better location for the filter block,it's not exactly small.2 full size filters side by side,and the bypass one is a little wider.
it works out good where it is though,I had just enough hose,I cut it completely in half and assembled the ends,and took it to a local shop and had it welded ito place.

and I do not need to remove anything to remove/replace the filters ?,I would never have mounted it there if I needed to remove anything,{though I would be still scratching my head to come up with a better local}?
I simply bend the under-plastic to get at the filters.

by being right side up in the grill there's not too much drip after the filters come off,and it's not a big job taking samples.

samples must be taken when the engine is warm,and engine also must still be running for a proper sample .
 



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also,

these filters,at least the bypass need to be filled when changing,the bypass takes allot more oil to fill,and it fills slowly when new.

now go get a setup for your X !!
if your not an Amsoil dealer,talk to Gary.
he's the best,
or become a dealer,it's cheap enough,and then you can order for yourself at dealers cost.?
just an idea.
 






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