The 5R55E and the infamous 2-3 shift flare issue

[BrooklynBay]

ROE, I was just wondering if you added any Sonnax parts like the boost valve with O rings or the end plugs with O rings?

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

ROE, I was just wondering if you added any Sonnax parts like the boost valve with O rings or the end plugs with O rings?

Sorry it took so long to get back to you, BB.......life and it's problems.....

I didn't add any Sonnax parts, and neither did I install the Superior 'pressure booster' or whatever it's called. With all the parts I added, I don't know exactly which one cured the flare, but at the time I did suspect something...

At least 2 of the bores had aluminum spools, which I replaced with the Superior spools made of steel. As you know, aluminum on aluminum tends to gall, and steel on aluminum does not. Also the expansion rates are different with aluminum and steel when they get hot. Maybe the aluminum spools were sticking in their bores and causing the flare??? I don't know, but that was the only thing that really stood out when I did the work. Everything else looked good inside the transmission, but I noticed writing on the inside which led me to believe the trans had been worked on before under warranty. (It only had 34K miles on it when I bought it.)

 

[steelo1]

Okay quesion time, when i'm out 4wding I've noticed in particulary steep area's wether low needed or not if I've got it in "2nd" it will rev like crazy but slow right down or stop right up to over 4000 rpm's. When put into "1st" it'll take off & go like a rocket, is this what you guys are talking about?
Otherwise you wouldn't even notice the gear changes (on the open road) they are that smooth

p.s. transmission was rebuilt 11mths ago.

 

[Dennis F]

The flare is when you are accelerating and in 2nd gear shifting to 3rd. There is a delay during the shift where you would see the engine's rpm's go up a little bit before the shift actually happened. Then there will be a little bit of a bang from the shift because the rpm's are up.

I just had mine fixed so it is still pretty fresh in my memory.

 

[99ex22]

Does anybody have the Part # for the EPC solenoid??? Thanks,

-Russ

 

[BrooklynBay]

The best price for the EPC solenoid is from WWW.800700Tran.Com.

 

[99ex22]

The best price for the EPC solenoid is from WWW.800700Tran.Com.

Hey thanks, that site is great! I decided Im going to purchase the valve body with all 6 of the solenoids in it. Can you make sure this is the right on I need?...http://www.800700tran.com/prod.itml/icOid/80 Also all I know how to do with transmissions is flush the fluid out with a machine then refill...so how hard of a job is it replacing a valve body is their a good write up on it? I tried searching but all I could find was how to rebuild one. Thanks,

-Russ

 

[BrooklynBay]

This is the correct part. Are you going to get the $50 or the $80 deal? Check the sticky called the 5R55E valve body rebuild diary in the transmission section. You should purchase bonded separator plates, and a 1/4" drive In/Lb torque wrench for the valve body bolts. Additional items to purchase are the filter, pan gasket, and fluid.

 

[99ex22]

This is the correct part. Are you going to get the $50 or the $80 deal? Check the sticky called the 5R55E valve body rebuild diary in the transmission section. You should purchase bonded separator plates, and a 1/4" drive In/Lb torque wrench for the valve body bolts. Additional items to purchase are the filter, pan gasket, and fluid.

I would go for the 30.00 deal but I just looked up 1/4" drive In/Lb torque wrench's and they're all over 100.00 and hav no idea what bonded separator plates are so im thinking ill just go for the epc solenoid and see if that takes care of it....or does the valve body have to me removed to replace the epc?

 

[BrooklynBay]

You should get an upgraded solenoid bracket. You don't have to remove the valve body to replace the solenoids. Harbor Freight sells inexpensive torque wrenches for about $20.

 

[99ex22]

oh ok cool, is the upgraded solenoid bracket what you were talking about when you said bonded separator plates? last ?...I promise....I think

 

[BrooklynBay]

No, those are 2 different items. Everything is explained in the 5R55E VB rebuild diary sticky thread.

 

[99ex22]

yeah...im definatly just purchasing the epc solenoid....I don't want to dig that deep into my transmission myself. correct me if im wrong here....just pull the epc out and put the new on it....seems easy to me.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Everything is made to bolt in.

 

[CDW6212R]

The solenoid bracket has to come off to replace a solenoid, buy the bracket. Read the 5R55E thread. Evidently a lot of symptoms have been related to existing gaskets which leak pressure. The bonded gaskets are a wise upgrade, as is any VB kit. The time to pull the pan and fluid and change just the EPC will be about 50% of the task which includes doing the valve body. Yes the valve body work is delicate and must be done very carefully, but many of the improvements are gained there.

 

[99ex22]

Yeah I just have a feeling if I were to go about replacing the valve body I would mess something up with my luck. Ill purchase the EPC and the revised bracket and if that doesnt take care of I have no choic but to buy that valve body and tackle it myself. I appreciate your guys help!

-Russ

 

[dogfriend]

Something to consider regarding valve body removal:

I dropped the pan and replaced the EPC, did the valve body gaskets and installed the Ford valve body upgrade kit about a year ago on my 97. It had approx 118k on it at the time. I was not having any issues, but I got the chance to try out the new EPC design by Borg Warner.

When I dropped the valve body, the gaskets literally fell apart as I touched them. They were incredibly brittle, so that it would have only been a matter of time before they blew out somewhere.

I would recommend replacing the VB gaskets. Its not really that difficult, and there is all of the info you need in the 5R55E Valve Body thread.

 

[CDW6212R]

The VB work is intense, if you don't feel comfortable with it then it may be best to leave that for someone else. It is very messy to drop the pan, and the mess of removing the VB bolts usually makes first timers not want to do it again. So be very patient and prepared if you go into the valve body.

 

[99ex22]

yeah Ive already dropped the pan a couple times on it and its not fun. I don't have to touch the valve body when replacing the epc and the updated bracket do I?

 

[BrooklynBay]

The bracket holds the solenoid in place, and has nothing to do with the pan or the valve body. Here's a picture from Glacier991's photo gallery: