Solved Theft Mode Issues

[DemonMudder]

If you don't have any good key codes, the normal process is to erase the old codes, and then any key will work without further tools. The new Forscan etc, devices and components, have their own procedures I'm not sure about. I doubt they simply add a new key code in, maybe they do. The ideal thing would be to erase the PATS module of all codes.

When the PATS is empty, anyone can add a new first key, the normal programming method will work(minus the use of a prior keys). The 1st key is added most easily and quickly. Then a 2nd key will require the 1st be inserted as described in the programming procedure, and then the new 2nd key. After that, it requires two proper key codes plus any new key being added.

So look into the Forscan and ELM etc, items. You will benefit from them for other things later for sure. At a total price that sounds like under $40, everyone should have those and be getting used to what they can do.

Well I'm looking at having a locksmith mess with it tomorrow. I'll just ask if they can wipe it completely. Depends on when my keys arrive though, and still need to have them cut. May have to have it done on Tuesday if they come in too late. Unless, I just use my new ignition cylinder, bought it just in case; was going to just return it but it came with 2 keys already, so maybe I'll just say screw it and do that.

 

[Mbrooks420]

He’s a locksmith. He sells and cuts keys.

 

[DemonMudder]

This one says they can program them as well. If not, I have some companies I can ask to pop by. Supposedly Pop-a-Lock can do it.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Almost any real locksmith can, it’s a standard job for them now.

 

[DemonMudder]

Almost any real locksmith can, it’s a standard job for them now.

Fair enough

 

[CDW6212R]

If you have a new key cylinder then I'd use it. At this age those are wearing out, and they are hell to deal with if they fail inside and the key won't go in it.

With a locksmith working on it, that's the time to ask what they need to repin the key cylinder. You want the keys to work in the doors and hatch also, so have them make the new key cylinder take the old keys, or else you'll have keys that only work in the ignition, but not the rest etc. I had that done when I rebuilt my 99.

I bought a used 95-97 hatch key cylinder, and a new drivers door cylinder, so I had them re-pinned to accept the one original good key I had, which started the engine. I think in 2007 that was about $40, and it took him maybe 15 minutes, we met in a shopping center parking lot.

 

[DemonMudder]

If you have a new key cylinder then I'd use it. At this age those are wearing out, and they are hell to deal with if they fail inside and the key won't go in it.

With a locksmith working on it, that's the time to ask what they need to repin the key cylinder. You want the keys to work in the doors and hatch also, so have them make the new key cylinder take the old keys, or else you'll have keys that only work in the ignition, but not the rest etc. I had that done when I rebuilt my 99.

I bought a used 95-97 hatch key cylinder, and a new drivers door cylinder, so I had them re-pinned to accept the one original good key I had, which started the engine. I think in 2007 that was about $40, and it took him maybe 15 minutes, we met in a shopping center parking lot.

I have new door locks (only one in), honestly I'm fine with having two keys: doors (hatch included) and ignition.

 

[CDW6212R]

I figured that, I mention it because now is the best time to fix it. My 73 Ranchero I got last year came with three keys. I thought that was a good thing, until I figured out they were for the three cylinders, two doors and the ignition. It's interesting to open a door when you don't know which key it is.

 

[DemonMudder]

I figured that, I mention it because now is the best time to fix it. My 73 Ranchero I got last year came with three keys. I thought that was a good thing, until I figured out they were for the three cylinders, two doors and the ignition. It's interesting to open a door when you don't know which key it is.

Yeah, I understand that one. I'll match everything up eventually, but right now I'm just doing enough that I can open it if it does, and so the bloody girl will actually start up again lol

 

[DemonMudder]

Okay, the key programming worked, started right up. But now I have the issue of, the battery cable ends are shot. They were already loose, but one's snapped now. Having some trouble finding them, if anyone has any links to ones that work for mine. I want to assume these are fine, assuming that the message center is the special little eddie bauer screen.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I’d just replace the ends with marine or audio style terminals. Unless your cables are suspect.

 

[donalds]

Pardon Our Interruption...

Example

 

[CDW6212R]

You can find the ground battery cable, your link may be it. But the power cable is long gone years back. You should try to save the OEM cables if the internal wiring is not corroded, the ends you can replace. Don't buy the cheap clamp on type that all parts stores carry, those are temporary and cause new connection problems later.

There are some good battery terminals out there, a few the parts stores have, but most you find easily on Amazon or eBay etc. I have that type, calling them marine terminals is a good name. They have a large solid body made of lead or similar good metal, and wire lugs which you crush and solder onto the old cable.

 

[donalds]

You can find the ground battery cable, your link may be it. But the power cable is long gone years back. You should try to save the OEM cables if the internal wiring is not corroded, the ends you can replace. Don't buy the cheap clamp on type that all parts stores carry, those are temporary and cause new connection problems later.

There are some good battery terminals out there, a few the parts stores have, but most you find easily on Amazon or eBay etc. I have that type, calling them marine terminals is a good name. They have a large solid body made of lead or similar good metal, and wire lugs which you crush and solder onto the old cable.

I soldered mine with brass terminals. Been mint

 

[Mbrooks420]

Stinger SSVLBTP Value Series Positive Battery Terminal (1) 1/0GA & (1) 4GA & (2) 8GA Outputs Amazon product ASIN B074L5MHYL

 

[CDW6212R]

This was one terminal kit that I bought for my prior 98 that had the clamp bolt on type before. I liked it like others posted here, because the terminals are big and robust, unlike the late model thin metal terminals which acid eats away.

Amazon product ASIN B074STQ2C1

 

[DemonMudder]

I’d just replace the ends with marine or audio style terminals. Unless your cables are suspect.

 

[DemonMudder]

Sorry, meant to reply sooner, it's kind of rednecked but it works. I'll take a pic of it tomorrow, but shes up and running. Even put the brush guard back on. Only thing now is to figure out where to wire my moonvisor, anyone got any tips for wiring it to work with the headlights? If not I'll be buying a set of switches eventually anyway

 

[DemonMudder]

Sorry, meant to reply sooner, it's kind of rednecked but it works. I'll take a pic of it tomorrow, but shes up and running. Even put the brush guard back on. Only thing now is to figure out where to wire my moonvisor, anyone got any tips for wiring it to work with the headlights? If not I'll be buying a set of switches eventually anyway

Here, have fun, literally attached the old ones to the new ones and it works fine.

 

[syrsknight]

But if my key chip is damaged, they can still match a new key to the ignition, right?

They can with you VIN Yes