Things that help fuel economy and performance.

[AireNiix]

I have yet to do plugs and wires. Filter was done When I got it Which was about a month ago.
Moneys been tight so I neglect certain car repairs when that happens. To a fault.
Although the plugs and wires would help; is there a sensor for controlling the fuel while it’s warming up? I don’t think the thermostat is stuck. It warms up quickly. And that wouldn’t interfere with fuel anyways. (Right?)

 

[AireNiix]

Clean the MAF. Got it.
I’ll actually do that right now.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Engine coolant temperature sensor adjusts fuel trims.

 

[AGodlyCanuck]

Engine coolant temperature sensor adjusts fuel trims.

So, please forgive my Ignorance.. What does that mean?
My explorer seems to run cold... like after a half hour drive up and down a mountain pass i can put my hand on the radiator and its warm on the in side and cold on the out side...
It is winter here... But could that negatively affect my engine or fuel economy?

 

[Mbrooks420]

Does your temp gauge show in the normal zone? There are two temperature sensors. One for the gauge on the dash, and another that adjusts the motors air/fuel ratios.

It’s possible your thermostat is stuck open causing a longer time to heat up than normal.

Do you have hot heat?

 

[AGodlyCanuck]

Does your temp gauge show in the normal zone? There are two temperature sensors. One for the gauge on the dash, and another that adjusts the motors air/fuel ratios.

It’s possible your thermostat is stuck open causing a longer time to heat up than normal.

Do you have hot heat?

Oh yeah, I DEFININTELY Have heat. Heater turns hot within 3-4 minutes of starting.
Temp Gauge sits around 1/4 So hangs right around the "N"

 

[Mbrooks420]

If your motor wasn’t running up to proper temp your heat would be slow, and not very hot.

If you have heat the motor should be plenty up to temp.

 

[Centaurious]

Replace plugs with good Double Platinum plugs and get a good Lifetime Warranty set of wires. After you replace your third set of wires you will be glad you bought a lifetime warranty set Because this is a wasted spark ignition the wires and plugs last HALF as long as normal. It also means that the spark goes from center to ground on one bank and ground to center on the other bank thus the need for double platinum.

Fun Fact
When shipped from the factory the Explorer came with two different spark plugs. One side had a platinum center electrode the other side had a platinum button on the ground electrode. Hows that for Pinching Pennies!

 

[Mbrooks420]

If you buy a quality set of wires, and route them correctly you won’t be going through them. A factory Ford set will EASILY go for 100k. I’d rather spend a few bucks then be bothered to change out wires, and deal with poor spark until I do.

 

[Argentimage]

I was getting 16-18 and changed the plugs to a new double platinum set and the mileage dropped to 15/16, it was immediate and after 19k it’s clear something changed that day

I’m thinking once the temp gets about 30 to put the old ones back in and see if the mileage spikes

 

[Mbrooks420]

You may have damaged a wire removing them. What brand plugs?

 

[Argentimage]

Bosch New wires a month later no change

 

[Mbrooks420]

Fords,especially the 5.0 is very finicky on plugs, I only run motorcrafts. I used another brand double platinum and I had to swap them out in short order.

 

[masospaghetti]

I hate to stir up the pot but I have to share my opinion on this:

Mufflers, higher octane gasoline, Lucas oil, air intakes, etc will not make any meaningful increase in fuel economy. Your fuel economy is dictated mostly by cruising efficiency. Mufflers and air intakes may slightly increase peak power, but they do almost nothing at more normal speeds and engine load. I like the way the K&N-style cone filters sound (I have one on my Ex right now), but any benefit is probably psychological. In addition, the OEM paper filter is better at screening dirt particles than the aftermarket filters are.

Look up Lucas oil products on Bob is the Oil Guy (a forum dedicated to lubricants) -- "scathing" is probably an understatement. Lucas should consider taking some of their (extensive) marketing dollars and putting it towards R&D. Their "Oil stabilizer" is especially terrible, essentially super-low-quality oil base stock with no additives that dilutes the additive package that comes in your motor oil.

Lastly - I mean no disrespect here - I can't definitely disprove Al Frankin's Quest for 30 thread, but I don't believe his results. Nobody has even come close to duplicating the mileage he got and his configuration (4-door, 4.0 SOHC, automatic, with 3.55 gears) was only rated at about 20 MPG from the factory. He didn't do anything major to his vehicle to drastically increase his fuel efficiency. My previous Explorer, a 2000 Sport, 2WD, 3.27 gears, 5-speed manual was the most fuel efficient version per the EPA, and I could barely get 24 MPG in the best conditions with all fresh fluids, front air dam, SCT tuner, and highway tires. (The OHV was actually rated higher than the SOHC engine, probably due to it's reduced rotating mass - fewer chains and cams means less friction).

I only say this to try to keep expectations more realistic, and take it for what it's worth (my opinion). Keep the fluids changed and the maintenance up to date, and plan ahead while you are driving to reduce the use of your brakes.

 

[Mbrooks420]

It’s usually not that hard to do better than the rating. (I beat mine by 5-6 easily and not even driving conservative) Coupled with flat terrain, less drag, and super conservative driving, I think it’s surely possible.

People tend to think higher gears equal better mpg, but that’s often not the case.

 

[AGodlyCanuck]

I think it's mostly just a bunch of little things to maybe squeeze out 1-2mpg.

You'll never get much better than that without working a lot.

 

[AGodlyCanuck]

So I have officially gone through my first tank of fuel now that my engine swap is completed and the vehicle is insured and stuff...

Its winter here so I only went to 1/4

So I went 370km on this tank.
Topped up at 55L
So... 14.86L/100km...
So... 15.82MPG

Thats not too bad considering I live in a hilly and mountainous climate, live in a city, in winter, on 31's and did some Offroading and windy backroads.

Sounds about right, right?

 

[Mbrooks420]

Sounds normal. I got 15 no matter what.

 

[Argentimage]

I hate to stir up the pot but I have to share my opinion on this:

Mufflers, higher octane gasoline, Lucas oil, air intakes, etc will not make any meaningful increase in fuel economy. Your fuel economy is dictated mostly by cruising efficiency. Mufflers and air intakes may slightly increase peak power, but they do almost nothing at more normal speeds and engine load. I like the way the K&N-style cone filters sound (I have one on my Ex right now), but any benefit is probably psychological. In addition, the OEM paper filter is better at screening dirt particles than the aftermarket filters are.

Look up Lucas oil products on Bob is the Oil Guy (a forum dedicated to lubricants) -- "scathing" is probably an understatement. Lucas should consider taking some of their (extensive) marketing dollars and putting it towards R&D. Their "Oil stabilizer" is especially terrible, essentially super-low-quality oil base stock with no additives that dilutes the additive package that comes in your motor oil.

Lastly - I mean no disrespect here - I can't definitely disprove Al Frankin's Quest for 30 thread, but I don't believe his results. Nobody has even come close to duplicating the mileage he got and his configuration (4-door, 4.0 SOHC, automatic, with 3.55 gears) was only rated at about 20 MPG from the factory. He didn't do anything major to his vehicle to drastically increase his fuel efficiency. My previous Explorer, a 2000 Sport, 2WD, 3.27 gears, 5-speed manual was the most fuel efficient version per the EPA, and I could barely get 24 MPG in the best conditions with all fresh fluids, front air dam, SCT tuner, and highway tires. (The OHV was actually rated higher than the SOHC engine, probably due to it's reduced rotating mass - fewer chains and cams means less friction).

I only say this to try to keep expectations more realistic, and take it for what it's worth (my opinion). Keep the fluids changed and the maintenance up to date, and plan ahead while you are driving to reduce the use of your brakes.

I agree most of the stuff you see is snake oil
With a Chem e background reading the ingredients active ones revealing all bs

Especially as you ref Lucas

I’d like to get it close to 20

I saw 18/19 briefly cruising 10 eastbound out of new Mx to Tex so if there were few things that got thug to the label would be nice

 

[Mbrooks420]

20 is surely not a big feat, and easily doable.