Tick! Tick! Tick!

[kyle94ex]

I have a 94 x and there is a ticking noise coming from under the hood. I have some buddys who say that it is lifter noise? Has anyone else had this problem and if so, how do I fix it?

 

[88vert]

Does it do it all the time?How many miles are on your ex?

 

[kyle94ex]

yes all the time. I have about 145k on it. also I get a kind of *rattleing* noise around 3,500 rpm.

 

[Magicfan25]

sounds like it could be valve train rattle

 

[SteveVB]

read this:

Try reading this article on repairing the lifter valvetrain noise .

Most likely a combo of lifters, pushrods and rockers. A search of this site will turn up all kinds of info on the noises you describe.

Good Luck

 

[Doug904]

Rocker arm noise is very common on all 4.0's, especially in the earlier styles. It isn't necessary to go threw the trouble of replacing the lifters though. You can purchase new remanufactored rocker arms with hardened pushrod cups and tips that will not wear out the same as your last ones along with new pushrods in one simple kit. Check out this link...

www.4.0performance.com/valvetrain.html

Here you will find the rockers and pushrods I speak about. I'm not saying you must buy them from this place only recommending you to a good site to reference it from.

Later Doug904.

 

[93xltnewb]

i have a tick also, i found it to be the exhaust connecting to the engine it rattles when i accelerate and decellarate

 

[joehawk]

I suppose I go a little overboard, but if my engine had somewhat major problems at that mileage, I would go for the remanufactured long block. Once it is in, you should have another 135K miles of pretty much trouble free driving, at least in the engine area. I have had two reman. engines [two diff cars]from Schucks Auto supply, and had no troubles with them at all. They had the best prices there too. The remanufactured ones really are pretty much a brand new engine. And you can check the companies that make them, many of them will use upgraded parts eg. if Ford used too soft a metal in a part that later is found to be a common fault area, they will use stronger metal so the original problem wouldn't reoccur in the remanufactured one. To me it is worth it to have a "new" engine that I feel I can depend on when it counts.

 

[Doug904]

Originally posted by joehawk
I suppose I go a little overboard, but if my engine had somewhat major problems at that mileage, I would go for the remanufactured long block. Once it is in, you should have another 135K miles of pretty much trouble free driving, at least in the engine area. I have had two reman. engines [two diff cars]from Schucks Auto supply, and had no troubles with them at all. They had the best prices there too. The remanufactured ones really are pretty much a brand new engine. And you can check the companies that make them, many of them will use upgraded parts eg. if Ford used too soft a metal in a part that later is found to be a common fault area, they will use stronger metal so the original problem wouldn't reoccur in the remanufactured one. To me it is worth it to have a "new" engine that I feel I can depend on when it counts.

That's great and all but wouldn't you rather spend $150-200 and attempt to solve this before you went and spent $1500 on parts and dependant on wether you can do the labor you could spend $500 to a $1000 more. Especially if the engines in good shape otherwise, heck I've got a 4.0 in my shop that has 325K miles on it and just helped a guy in cali. put a timing chain set on his that has 315K, he needs to get another 50k out of it and then he said he's gonna junk the entire truck, hahaha. 200K miles on a 4.0 isn't uncommon at all, 135K is just getting broke in .

Later Doug904.

 

[SteveVB]

Well Ive opened up a couple of the 4.0s and the only real problems a seem to be with the top end. The rockers, push rods are prone to wear. The bottom ends have a good 250-300k miles in them. Both of the engines I worked on were in the middle of the factory specs and they had about 150k miles on them.

I wouldnt throw a new engine in when you can spend a few hundred to rebuild the top end with lifters, pushrods and rockers.

Good Luck.

 

[joehawk]

Both of you are right of course. I just hate having to keep opening up the same engine. Seems like top end work restores proper compression with the valves closing properly, then the next thing that goes are the rings that can't handle the increased compression . Or the timing chain goes, or the waterpump etc. It does make more $ sense to fix the problems one by one, but I would rather pay the extra money to get a new engine, and put a new waterpump etc on it on install. If I had the engine since new and knew the mainenance had been kept up, I would just do the top end. However, if I got it used, I would exchange the engine. I have an '85 Tbird [302 V8]that I got used. At 99,000K the oil pressure dropped and the engine was ruined. When the old engine was opened, the reason oil pressure dropped was that it had become so sludged up oil could not return to the oil pan fast enough, the return holes were plugged lol. The previous owner must have done alot of short trips and not changed the oil very much. After the new engine was in, I kept up the maintenance and I know it should be in good shape in there. It is still running great, and I am now planning on giving it to my son.

 

[wrbrower]

I wouldnt throw a new engine in when you can spend a few hundred to rebuild the top end with lifters, pushrods and rockers.

Good Luck.

Can you get away without swapping the cam shaft if you do the lifters and above?

Thanks

 

[SteveVB]

Can you get away without swapping the cam shaft if you do the lifters and above?

Thanks

Yes

 

[wrbrower]

Yes

Thanks Steve!

 

[bates]

I have vlavetrain ticking. It's annoying, but not nearly as annoying as the detonation.

160K here.

EDIT: Doug, hope this doesn't sound bad, but I heard you quit the 4.0L performance thing, or was it just heads? Or is my source crap?