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Time to move on?

Joined
January 15, 2010
Messages
26
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City, State
Northern VA
Year, Model & Trim Level
'99 Eddie Bauer
I got my truck from my wife a few years ago - she had bought it new in 98 when we were dating. In the last two years, it just seems to be issue after issue with the truck. I know some have possibly been caused/worsened by my lack of superb maintenance that alot of you seem to be good at.

Today I went in to get emissions done. The guy couldn't even do the test because of an exhaust leak. He said it's the muffler that is leaking and a part of one of the inlet pipes going into the muffler. $500 he quoted me ($110 labor, rest muffler/pipe/fittings).

So I came straight here, looking for parts - was going through link after link of gibson catbacks when I stopped to think of all of the issues the explorer has and things that need to be done.

I made a quick list of issues off the top of my head. Some of the estimates are based on a repair iphone app that I've been told gives a pretty accurate range. I'm including labor costs for these. As handy as I like to believe I am, I know I'm not capable of much more than an Intake install:

  • Exhaust Leak - $500 (maybe cheaper, haven't looked into it yet)
  • Ball Joints - $600-$1k I've put this off when it started showing up late last year and now it's to the point where the truck clunks occasionally when going over bumps. Likely upper and lower need to be done. No clue if sway bar or anything else may need replacing as well.
  • Tires - $500-$600 One has a slow leak I've been dealing with, all 4 don't have much tread and need to be replaced to pass inspection next time.
  • Electrical Drain - $??? God knows how many hours I've spent trying to track the source down. My temporary fix is to pull the fuse that seems to be the issue when the weather is cold (drain doesn't seem to be enough to be an issue in warmer weather). Downside being this fuse controls my speedometer, windshield wipers, power windows, power saver (turn headlights off dummy), etc. So whenever I get in the truck I have to plug it back in to use any of those features.
  • Fuel Pump - $400-$600 Replacing the fuel filter and using BG products seemed to help a little, but in cold weather I still had to cycle the ignition a dozen times to build up enough pressure to start the truck. I'm worried because of all of the stories I hear about the fuel pump being replaced but it does not resolve the issue.
  • Power Door Lock - $150-$200 Just started a week or so ago, drivers side door will sometimes not unlock when I push any of the unlock buttons. It tries, you hear the noise and all the other doors unlock, but sometimes the drivers door lock just does not pop up. Even when using keyless entry code the door makes a noise but does not unlock. Also, for some reason I now have to pull the lever to open my drivers door (from the inside) twice for it to open. I pull the first time and the door doesn't open, so I release and pull again. No clue if it's related or needs to be oiled, etc.

There's also other things that I haven't listed that would be nice not to deal with: having to disconnect the CD changer because it too was draining the battery when the car was off, lack of a rear windshield wiper that actually does a decent job, having to use a cassette tape adapter to listen to Sirius, etc.

I'm just not sure I want to put that much money into a 12 year old truck with 120k miles on it that has seen better days. I'm sure I'll miss alot of things about her if I decide to move on. Just this morning I was snickering at other cars/vans and their crappy turning radius when trying to make a U-turn.

Not sure if I was looking for opinions or just to get it off my chest. This forum has been a great source of info and opinions - can't thank you all enough.

Forgive the interruption to your day.

-Salty
 



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You got grossly over estimated on that exhaust. I had full 3 inch into cut out dumps/flowmaster 40's then out the rear on a 72 chevelle for $400.

You could have dual exhaust done for roughly $350 and get something you like.


As for selling: if it doesn't sell for much, won't you end up back in a crappy car? I'd suck it up and fix what's wrong and hold onto it.
 






I run a 98 with 285km she was mostly original when i got her 100k kms ago yes shes 13 years old yes my drivers door lock somtimes doesnt work yes shes a pig on gas and the ongoing running costs and repairs can seem daunting,
i have had and still have some of the issues you mention i fix them myself one at a time as i can........shes 13 years old and to this date has never let me down.

going places my buddies so called 4x4;s cant equals big smile a turning radius in my sport equaling my own shadow big smile unplugging the block heater this morning and driving out of my snowed in driveway and around my stuck neighbours equals priceless.


I do spend a lot of time working on my Ex greasing cleaning so on and what i dont know how to fix i will learn and do it myself mostly from being on this site .

What im saying i guess is how does getting into your Ex and turning the key make you feel knowing no matter whats out there under what ever conditions she will get you there.

Yes you can replace her but shes a known quantity you know whats wrong, weve all been through this i sold my 93 and regretted it for ten years you just need to weigh the pros and cons and good luck
 






What shape is the body and engine in? Could you buy a replacement vehicle in as good of shape for 2500? I guess that's the question..
 






I have a 96 explorer and it has seen better days.When I got it I know it didn't have the best of maintenance but it runs great.Does it need work?Yes.Is it rusty?Yes.But I have plans for it.Iv'e done quite a lot of work on it thanks to this site and the people on it.Iv'e had it for a couple of years now and love it.It's never let me down.I guess I'm loyal to old friends.I'm retired and kind of dillapidated myself.I consider it cheaper to fix my ex up then to pay $400 a month payments being I already have payments on my wife's car.I hope to make the ex into a nice ride as I can.I also like fords,always have.It all depends on what you want and what you are looking for.Good luck on whatever you do.
 






Thanks for all the replies - sorry for the delay. I'm going to do some actual pricing out of the things that need to be done before I make any kind of decision.

Being that warmer weather is incoming - my main concerns now are the exhaust and ball joints. I've seen the ball joint replacement threads here - I just don't think I've got the skills to pull that off.

Austin, you mentioned a dual exhaust done for $350? I don't necessarily need a dual exhaust, but where can I find something inexpensive like that? And is it a bolt-on operation that I might even be able to use the lift at my brother's work and do it myself (maybe a friend to help with lifting) without much issue?

Sog & Reflex - thanks for your posts, you gave me a little more perspective on what I need to be thinking about.

Jremmington - body is in really good shape. the rear passenger door met a pole before the car was mine, but I was able to pop most things back into place and touch it up to look presentable. Engine is in decent shape, gets the main services.


Maybe if I do a few things (custom exhaust, etc) the truck I'll be more attached to it and not often think of it as the wife's old truck.

-Salty
 






I'm not sure about your area, but a local shop can fab something up around that price. It would be a custom job.
 






#1- exhaust leak. That $500 better be for a brand spanking new exhaust. If it's just to fix a leak, then halve that number as a start.

#2 ball joints. New, good ball joints are something like $60 each, at least for the lowers. Paying a shop to install them will probably run $150 or so. If you need an alignment afterwards, add in another $75.

#3 tires. Decent starting price- you could do better if you shop around. A leak could be a tire or it could be the wheel.

#4 electrical drain. ?? Hard to say.

#5 fuel pump. I have no experience in this area.

#6 door lock. For about $5 in parts and an hour or so of time, you can fix it yourself. The problem has to do with the lock mechanism going down too far and not being able to raise when commanded. A simple spring and some zip-tyes will fix this issue.

Right there, I cut a bunch out of the budget you were planning. But sometimes you just have to cut your losses and walk away. Sometimes a vehicle has become too big of a pile to deal with.

And a CD changer?!?!? People still use those?
 






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