Tips for replacing the stupid looking PCV valve

[koda2000]

For those f you who may be following my "New Toy" thread...

I figured I'd replace my PCV valve today (now that my engine is clean enough to see it). I got the rubber elbow off of it easily and the valve would wiggle and turn, but I couldn't get it to come out. Struggled with it for 15 mins and then decided there had to be a better way.

I went and rummaged through my tool box and came across my old tie-rod pickle fork, which I can't recall the last time I actually used for it's intended purpose. Hmmm, looked to be just what I needed. Stuck it on the back side of the PCV valve, pushed and it popped right out. Then, instead of struggling to remove the cooling hoses from the metal pipe from the driver's side (can't imagine why it has a coolant line wrapped around it) I wondered if I could pull the hoses back from the passenger side to get room to work on it. I first had to pull the plastic PCV pipe back through from the passenger side (easy) and then I carefully worked the 2 cooling hoses with the valve back through (easy). Now I had several feet of loose coolant hoses and the PCV valve where I could work on it, which was a good thing, because the cooling hoses were stuck on there pretty well. Plus, as the hoses could be held higher than the radiator, I didn't have to deal with any coolant leaking.

My valve had to have been the original OE valve at 184k, as it was full of sludge. Makes me wonder how much sludge is inside the motor (think I need to flush this engine before putting in good oil. I already changed it once using cheap oil as a flush, but it needs something stronger). No wonder it lost oil pressure at idle after my first test drive. I stuck my finger in the PCV hole in the valve cover and... eeeewwwwww... Nasty! Poor old truck, so neglected for so long. This project has turned into more of a restoration, but I'm getting there.

 

[swshawaii]

The "simple" task of replacing the PCV valve was one of the most frustrating experiences for me. In addition, the fear of breaking the retaining tabs on the plastic valve cover made me even more paranoid. Good idea using a pickle fork, I resorted to bent needle nose pliers with great difficulty and scraped knuckles. Here's Todd Z's explanation of the coolant line wrapped around the PCV valve.

Its specifically to prevent the valve from freezing if moisture gets in there, just like the throttle body. IT too has coolant lines going through it.

Like I said before, I removed them both for years now with no issues. I let the truck warm up before driving. Once warm, It no freeze.....LOL

http://www.mysporttrac.com/shared/msgboard9e.asp?BOARDNAME=MSG&VIEW=1345140&SUB=1345151

 

[Kjhadfield]

Mines wasn't so hard to take out, it seems to wiggle slightly in place- makes me wonder if the tabs have broken before or if it's something to worry about.

Definitely cramped on space. Did you shake the pcv valve after removed? Did you hear any rattle- I know my old made very little noise while the new rattled when shaken. I hope your putting a new with all that work

 

[koda2000]

I should have stated that you must first unscrew (1/4 turn or so) the PCV valve to get it to come out w/out breaking the tabs in the valve cover. My old one would wiggle, but I just had no way to pull it out. The new one, once installed, wiggles slightly also, but it's locked in place. It was probably just built up crud that prevented me from pulling it out by hand.

Yes, I did shake the old one and it rattled slightly, but you could just see the sludge in it. The new one rattles as I would expect one to. With the O-ring seal on the valve and the fact that it's pretty much always has suction on it, I wouldn't be too worried about it wiggling. When I turned my new on into place I felt it lock.

I never thought about the PCV freezing up. Doesn't seem to be a problem on other vehicles/engines, but the explanation makes sense.

Now that I've done it once, by using the pickle fork (if necessary) and pulling the hoses back through the passenger side, I'll bet I could change one in 5 min's. Now when I changed the one on my '01 XLT SOHC that took be at least an hour and I was super paranoid about braking something or pulling out a hose from somewhere I couldn't see. I've yet to change one on any of my 4 V8's. I just don't see anyway I can do it w/out first removing the hood, or intake plenum.

 

[Kjhadfield]

Yea, I couldn't tell if it locked or not. But if you put your fingers on it, it will wiggle slightly but if I remember not pull out unless I turned it a little first. I haven't got any cel so I think I'm ok. I was to afraid of grabbing and turning with pliers- I tried with a slight tug and stopped so I wouldn't break something. At least now I know I'm not the only 1

 

[davidmmm69]

It's got coolant lines in it to keep heated to slow the build up of carbon.