Tony Raine's 84 Bronco II | Page 5 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Tony Raine's 84 Bronco II

damn sounds like fun
i got 2 re do all the brake lines :(
thall keep me busy

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take your time and make sure its done well. brakes are too-often overlooked, but (in my opinion) are the #1 most important part of a vehicle.

Got my radius arm extensions


total length from center of axle to here is just a hair over 43"

excellent product, they screw on to keep them aligned for welding. I think i will mock up the radius arm bracket location with them just threaded, then take them back off and have them welded. plus i really want to get this thing roll-able, because i think i'm going to move it behind the shed, in the shade. after working outside all day, the hot afternoon sun is kicking my ass when its wrench time.

any helpful hints for removing these bolts?

think i could drill them out and tap it to a larger size?
or drill a smaller hole and use an extractor?


Doing a lot of measuring today. Working on getting the radius arm brackets in the correct location. First I engineered a “wheelbase alignment device” to push the axle 1” forward from stock. According to my measurements (which I really hope are correct),

-a BII wheelbase is 94”
-I want 95” (for this measurement, the rear axle will be moved out later)
-the dia of a ford 7.5 axle tube is 3”, a dana 44, 2.75”
-take the radius of the 2, subtract from 95, and you get 92.125” (92 1/8) between the tubes

Construct one “wheelbase alignment device” and install



And I tied up a fender to get an idea of what it would look like

And it just doesn’t look right to me. Looks like it’s more than 1”. But I have to keep in mind that the coil bucket is not centered above the axle on a stock rig (remember, I have a completely stock b2 to compare with)


I am also looking at track bar location with the axle in this place. For those with a SAS, does your track bar tuck inside the TTB crossmember, sit in front of it, or did you have to cut a bunch of it out?


Alright, I sure hope I measured this right, haha. Only drilled 2 of the 4 holes, in case I have to move them around later.

Sticks out a little more than stock

Is the pinion supposed to point up this far?

I have no idea what “degree” bushings I have in the wedges (I’ll be getting new ones regardless)

Got some new F-250 shock mounts at a great price from a fellow forum member

I thought about grinding off the track bar mount from the SAS donor rig, but for price vs. time, this looks like a great value HERE

Lookin good. Hope to see her rollin around under her own power soon ;) lol.

Finally got mine all road ready/ dune ready lol.

I’ve noticed that since installing the radius arm extensions, I no longer need the full-size TTB RA brackets (they stick the end of the RA outside the frame). I can now put my stock RBV TTB brackets back in without bind. After I finish cleaning them up, I’ll put a little spray paint on and bolt them up.

Track bar bracket should be here soon….

Currently, I am taking the coil buckets off. Bought a craftsman air chisel that is leaps and bounds better than my old HF cheapie. The plan is to space the stock buckets off the frame with 2”x2” steel, and move them up about 2”. I have some neat adjustable upper coil mounts that I want to use, I just have to figure out how to mount a flat plate with a hole in the middle, in the middle of my stock coil bucket. Ok, that sounds confusing, I’ll get some pics up later….

I’ve also been drilling on those bolts in the radius arms, with little success.

Alright, got the coil buckets off

I like to have my work at eye-level, so I lifted things up a little bit, haha

Got both coil buckets together, and did some thinking

The goofy bulge on the drivers side framerail always had me stumped. I wasn’t sure if the “hump” or the “flat” part was the correct distance from the nice flat passenger side framerail. After comparing the coil buckets, it looks like the “flat” is the proper place to build off of. This is good, since I don’t have to build off the old coil buckets. Time to get a little creative with some of this steel I have laying around….

Decided to grind off the SAS donor rig’s coil buckets and go from there. The passenger side will be easy (for the most part). Grind off, drill holes, bolt on my frame

Driver’s side will be a little tougher, so I am starting on it first

I am going to make it look as much like the other side as possible, and notch it out for the frame bulge (and add some reinforcement). I will tack the parts together, then take them to work where a certified welder will weld it with a bigger welder.

If this doesn’t work, I’ve got some 3/8” that I could probably do something with

Since I am doing a lot of grinding/cutting, proper safety gear is a must

The water is for the area right under where I am grinding. I also have a large fire extinguisher nearby at all times.

And yes, many sawzall blades were sacrificed.

"I like to have my work at eye-level, so I lifted things up a little bit"

Sir, I like the way you think

October 15, 2010

Made a big decision earlier in the week. Progress is painfully slow, and I need something to accomplish quickly. My order from James Duff arrived 2 days after I ordered it.


Their stuff is packed incredibly well, I would recommend them to anyone


Parts lineup



Turns out the lower coil mounts were either made backwards, or stamped for the wrong side.

This actually works in my favor….

October 16, 2010

Re-drilled lower coil mount for spring distance of the full-width, and having my axle pushed forward


Springs have a slight bow to them, but I’ll wait to see what it looks like after the engine is in.

Another pic, coil is not bowed as bad as it looks

Not sure if I will run dual shocks, so I have not installed that bracket yet

No, I could not get a Duff track bar bracket. I’ve got an idea, hope it works, haha….

I’ll probably sell off the stock radius arms and the extensions I bought. But, I’m keeping the adjustable upper coil mounts for a possible future rear link/coil suspension. The “mystery” black coils are really soft, so they may end up in the back as well. As for the f-250 shock mounts, I’m thinking outboard shocks in the rear like on the new F150’s.

Friend of mine is parting/scrapping an 86 F150 2wd, so in the next few days I’ll be getting its rear axle, wheels, and whatever other parts I want.

Finally got around to working on the BII again. Pulled the motor out for (hopefully) the last time. Need to fine-tune the motor mount holes and install the clutch. I really think the factory early bronco pan will work, so I bolted it back on.




Noticed the flywheel has few chipped teeth. Is this a big problem? Or can I run it and be ok?



Nice to see ya working on the truck again.
IMO, if all the teeth were worn down about the same, it would be no big deal unless they were down next to nothing.
I think the problem is going to be when the splines on the starter align up on the initial contact with the flywheel and those teeth pictured are the first to engage, well you can only imagine the amount of torque being applied.

Now if you do replace that flywheel make sure you get the same tooth count. If I remember they make a 164 and a 170 something. Even the spacer plates are different for each flywheel. I made up a universal spacer plate that will let the starter bolt up if you run into problems.

Just added: In fact I just noticed, if you look at the next to last pic of the spacer plate. If in fact that is the spacer plate that goes with this block. It's the far right two bolt holes that are different on the two different tooth flywheel spacer plates. Both will mount to the block but the starter will not bolt up if incorrect plate. What I did was just re-drill the plate for either tooth flywheel. Hope I make sense.

Thanks Rookie, I've been doing a little here and there when I have some time. I just skimmed over your build for the first time in quite awhile. Since I haven't seen you on in a long time, I need to remember to check in over here and catch up with what you have been doing.

So as long as I get a new flywheel with the same tooth count, I'm good? yeah, that spacer is from that block. I bought the entire assembly, water pump to t-case, out of a running, driving vehicle.

this one actually


Just get the same tooth count and your good. Now there are different weight after market flywheels also. But just as long as you get the exact same one you should be fine. I have run all aluminum flywheels made by Sheafer Co. and then some that are heavier then stock. But yours is probably stock.
The other site kept going down so many times I got frustrated. Then it seemed there was just a lack of interest is some of the monthly and yearly contests.
Hope all is well over there.

Finally some progress! Took a half day off today since the weather was nice, and spent about 3 hours working on the BII

Started my afternoon like this

Tossed the motor in, this time the lawnmower was enlisted for help

Motor in, yanked the hoist out

Ahhhhh, that’s more like it


Plenty of clearance with stock EB oil pan

Firewall clearance (will be a little more once I level out the motor and get the trans mount made)

My temporary trans mount

Factory EB exhaust manifolds fit great



Bolted the starter in while sitting on the front tire

Bolted the core support on. I just happened to have a ton of small bolts, washers, and nyloc nuts that fit perfectly

Tossed some fenders on so it looks more like a truck, and less like a pile of parts






Sitting next to a stock BII

Approximate tire stickout (track bar needs adjustment)


Got some cutting to do, that piece of wood is where the shifter tower goes

Grabbed the first hood out of my spare parts pile and bolted it on

My stopping point for the day


Hopefully tonight I will be picking up my FW 44 and 9” combo

Nice job. keep ups posted now that the weathers changing and you'll be able to do more.
I have a non AC heater box that goes on the firewall if you need one. It don't stick out as far as AC ones.

Nice job. keep ups posted now that the weathers changing and you'll be able to do more.
I have a non AC heater box that goes on the firewall if you need one. It don't stick out as far as AC ones.

thanks rookie! this truck is actually a non a/c rig (funny for an eddie bauer), so i have one. i dont really want to modify it (they are harder to come by in the south), so i think i will take an a/c box and hack it up instead.

i'm also contemplating using electric heat and getting rid of the box altogether

took a pic of the axles. both are upside down. can't find a tag on either, so i am not sure what ratio they are. the guy i bought them from is going to bring me the other drum as soon as he finds it


I hope to get the axles in this weekend. the guy i am borrowing the hoist from needs it back monday, so i am going to use it as much as possible to move the axles around.

lots of lifting, tire swapping, and axle dragging are in my future....

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yeah, its been awhile since i've posted, and quite a bit has happened

here are a few pics of how everything sits now, almost ready for the move to the new house:

I'm welding up a makeshift steering to get it on/off the trailer easier


parts pile


and the space formerly occupied by 2 other B2's