torque monster install gone bad

[Dono]

A manififod bolt broke flush with the head.

Now, I have a broken manifold bolt in the head with a broken easy out in it.

Both flush to the head.

I have a feeling this is way over my head. Anyone have any other thoughts other than 'Pull the head'? The good news is that its easy to get at the broken bolt.

Here's a picture of my pain. Notice the broken easy out in the middle of the bolt broken bolt?

Think Im happy right now?

 

[delexploder]

Do you have a welder?

 

[Turdle]

OK
Been there. After welding nuts to the exposed stud and failing, it was suggested to bolt up the remaining bolts and go to an exhaust shop to have them re drill and tap the holes. using the installed manifold as a guide.

Other than that you will have to remove the head. I doubt the easy out material will be easy to drill through.

Some guys are real good with a torch and tap. You might be able to burn it out, but I have only seen it done on a removed head. I wonder what the heat would do to seals, gaskets and such.

On the other hand, maybe with the coolant in the heads, this could be an option???

 

[delexploder]

I dont bother with trying to weld nuts on, just stack your weld till you have enough to grab with vicegrips while its still hot,

 

[JCat]

Using a pointy punch can you get the easy-out to move or come out ?

Since they are hardend tool steel, there is no way to drill into them, only burn them out.

Perhaps a dremel or die grinder with a supply of grinding stones.


http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=404449

 

[Turdle]

That is a good idea to try to chip the easy out--out

If you can get the easy out material out of the hole you started, you might try a reverse drill bit. They cut counter clockwise, and the hole they create removes the thread tension. Usually, if they work the bolt will just come out while you are drilling. But you will need to take your time and stay straight.

 

[BackBone]

I've never tried this but seriously considered it when I broke a bolt changing my waterpump:

http://brokentap.com/?gclid=CK735dXTx70CFU1bfgodNYQAXg

Maybe there is a similar service in your area? I searched on broken bolt removal service.

 

[Dono]

I've never tried this but seriously considered it when I broke a bolt changing my waterpump:

http://brokentap.com/?gclid=CK735dXTx70CFU1bfgodNYQAXg

Maybe there is a similar service in your area? I searched on broken bolt removal service.

Wow, thats crazy!

I went ahead and finished the drivers side.

Turdle had a thought that I could bolt it all together and take it to an exhaust shop. I think I will go down this road, except have the poor girl towed to and from the shop. I have a friend that runs an exhaust shop and says he can do it. He said it sounds like he will have to boar it out. Not sure what that means really. Its worth it if the head doesnt have to come off.

 

[delexploder]

I can see the thread on the bolt, its got a rust ring, I doubt it will take drilling, im pretty sure I could get that out with a small drift and a little heat, but a mig would get it out fast, last one i did was on a 289 from a sixty something galaxy, this is why I use high nickle anti sieze when I put new ones in

 

[Dono]

Here`s the drivers side.
At least it went as expected.

The clearances are so tight, that header wrap adds an extra layer of pain.

 

[Dono]

I can see the thread on the bolt, its got a rust ring, I doubt it will take drilling, im pretty sure I could get that out with a small drift and a little heat, but a mig would get it out fast, last one i did was on a 289 from a sixty something galaxy, this is why I use high nickle anti sieze when I put new ones in

Too bad your so far away. This is beyond my skill level.

Before I tried the easy out route, I tried heat and a punch. If course, I don`t have anything to get it red hot, just a plumbers torch.

And, yes, everything is going back together with antisieze.

 

[Dono]

Maybe after taking a break, I will try to get that easy out removed. Its probably twisted in there pretty good also.
And, of course, the punches I have are cheap crap that just flatten out when I hit them with a hammer. The place I went didnt have any good ones.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

was trying to call you around 5 ish to take a look at it. sorry, ran late while i was in the city

 

[CDW6212R]

I hate that for you Don. Which cylinder is that BTW, 1, 2, 3?

How deep is the easy out broken in there? That is the tough part now, getting that piece out. I have hardly ever had good results from an easy out bit etc. They are so hardened that if they break it's much worse than before.

I'm no welder and that would be the best method, to work with in some way. I prefer to drill if you can get to it, as deep as possible and go bigger until you virtually reach the thread diameter. At some point the thin shell that's left finally lets go.

 

[shucker1]

Like JCat said EZouts are tool steel. With a good quality punch it may shatter.

That is why I like stake type Ez Outs in a blind hole. A spiral type can make the bolt body expand.

I usually use Turdles idea with the left hand drill drill bit. I drill it out to a thin shell and the final pass is a left hand bit.

 

[CDW6212R]

Like JCat said EZouts are tool steel. With a good quality punch it may shatter.

That is why I like stake type Ez Outs in a blind hole. A spiral type can make the bolt body expand.

I usually use Turdles idea with the left hand drill drill bit. I drill it out to a thin shell and the final pass is a left hand bit.

The left handed drill bits are on my wish list, I've wanted to get them since they first came out. It's another item on a very long list, a someday list.

 

[shucker1]

Left hand bits are not cheap but come in very handy!

 

[shucker1]

Dono,

Another Suggestion. See link.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general-archive/poor-man-s-tap-buster-154740/

 

[Dono]

Sorry Tim, I must have just walked away from my phone. Tim was helping me yesterday. I had the bolt broken off before he even showed up. It took me no time at all to break it off.

Don, its passenger side, just to the left of the shock tower. One saving grace is that there is a nice straight shot at it.

The guy I called said he`s never had a bolt he couldn't get out. That`s a positive. Someone in the house has been paying for a CAA membership, so that at least covers a tow one way. I`ll be on the hook for his labor, and a tow back. That and loosing my dd for probably 3 days.

Anyway, it is what it is. At this point, I`ll be happy not to pull the head. If it came to that, the dilemma would be to rebuild the motor, or not.

It sucks having to, as Tim puts it, `Raise the white flag`. So, I guess I`ll finish closing up the drivers side and pre-fit the passenger side so I know what to do. Also, I need to wrap the passenger header yet. That sucks also. That **** is like fiberglass on the skin. Need long sleeves, gloves, and a mask. Oh, and patience. Something I`m running short on.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

don, soak it with pen fluid. i am going to call joe, and see if he can think of anything, and also see if he might have a reverse bit in the morning.
its on, and personal now!