Torsion Bar Adjustment Bolts - Stock Height - No Torsion Twist or Body Lift

[HELMUT RONER]

Are the factory adjustment bolts Grade 8 or 10.9?

I've read that if the original bolts are removed that they need to be replaced. Is that due to age & stress on the bolts or just due to the thread locking compound coming off when they're removed?

What is the Loc-Tite equivalent to the thread lock the factory used on the bolts? I know it's blue, but what number?

Are the factory torsion bolts the same size and length throughout all years and models of Explorers, Rangers, and Sport Tracs or were there any size/length changes in certains models or years? I found that they're M12 x 1.75. What is the length of the stock bolts? If I'm not able to reuse my original bolts I'll have to hit up my nearby FASTENAL store.

I've read through some of the "Torsion Bar 101" thread. For me, it's just way too much to read at 26+ pages when trying to save time and get info on parts specific to my vehicle. I wish we had a dedicated torsion bar thread just for the 01 to 05 Sport Trac to cut down on research time.

Planning to get my rebuilt control arms with new ball joints and polyurethane bushings installed soon (trying for this weekend). Want to have everything ready for the job as well as little extras of things in case I run into a snag during the job.

 

[firefly1246]

FYI: these are the measurements for my Sport Trac:

Sport trac
Stock (after prothane body mounts)
Front drivers 33 15/16" (nearly worn tire)
Front pass 34 9/16" (brand new tire)
Rear driver 35 3/8"
Rear pass 36 1/16"

TT (9 turns) before driving
Front drivers 36 13/16" (nearly worn tire)
Front pass 37 8/16" (brand new tire)
Rear driver 35 3/8"
Rear pass 36 1/16"

TT (8 turns) and shackle after driving (3/4 tank)
Front drivers 35 14/16 (nearly worn tire .083" depth) 36 6/16 (if brand new)
Front pass 36 9/16" (brand new tire .333" depth)
Rear driver 37 1/16"
Rear pass 37 12/16"

TT (8 turns) and shackle after driving (1/2 tank) new left front Michelin 255/70-16 and alignment
Front drivers 36"
Front pass 36 7/16"
Rear driver 37 1/16"
Rear pass 37 5/16"

TT (8 turns) and shackle after driving (1/2 tank) Cooper Discover ATP 265/70-17
Front drivers 36"
Front pass 36 7/16"
Rear driver 37 8/16"
Rear pass 38 9/16"

If you notice the vehicle has a sag to the left, which apparently is typical in these vehicles. Also make sure you drive the vehicle after you make adjustment as it will settle a little.

 

[swshawaii]

IIRC, stock length bolts on the ST are 63.5mm. FYI, M12x1.75 torsion bolts are the same size and thread pitch as the body mount bolts. Keep in mind factory torsion bolts have "dog points" to seat properly in the adjuster key "dimples". Recall reading somewhere that 100mm may be too long for a 2" TT and may leave the bolts sticking out. Ideally you would want the entire bolt heads protected by the covers. Regarding thread lock compound, the factory seems to use the same stuff used on body mount bolts and requires heat to soften. Ford manual threadlocker specifics quoted below.

Apply Threadlock #262 E2FZ-19554-B meeting Ford spec WSK-M2G351-A6 or equivalent to the mounting bolts.

Bolts For Torsion Bar (See post #56 )
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153699

 

[HELMUT RONER]

N811015-s101

TORSION BAR BOLTS

N811015-S101

I managed to get 2 new bolts.

Using a Craftsman 2-Arm Puller 46903

So, I was able to get the passenger side front lower control arm replaced. Putting in a rebuilt arm with polyurethane bushings was no walk in the park. The shop I was working in had a very worn out ball joint press kit. Had to resort to using a 2 inch diameter deep socket to finish pressing the ball joint in.

Undoing the torsion bar wasn't a hellish task after all. Being that I don't have the rust issues many others have I was able to tap my torsion bar out from the control arm and let it fall to the ground.

The control arm pivot bolt heads are 13/16 and they are a lot easier to undo if you use an impact gun. During reassembly these bolts require tightening at 148 foot pounds of torque.

The nut actually doesn't turn because of the hooked tab to hold them in place, but just in cast that tab broke the nut size is 15/16

That's all the pics from yesterday I could take as I was running out of time to get the truck off the lift. It'll probably be another week or 2 before I can change the other side arm and hopefully take more detailed pictures.

 

[HELMUT RONER]

Before going to the dealership and going by the info swshawaii gave on bolt size I did check FASTENAL's website and the 2 closest matches to factory length were these.

Part number 11114572 M12-1.75 x 70mm DIN 933 Class 10.9 Yellow Zinc Hex Cap Screw

and

Part number 0127165 M12-1.75 x 65mm DIN 933 Class 10.9 Plain Finish Hex Cap Screw

 

[david4451]

The plate in your hand for tb key, did you find any foam material under it?
Mine had foam that was disintegratiing(same stuff as original body mounts) I assumed it was for sound deadening and load distribution.
I replaced foam with 1/8 inch aluminium sheet and 1/8 inch rubber sheet (approx thickness).

 

[HELMUT RONER]

When I first removed it there looked like what appeared to be some mud. Didn't see any kind of foam in there.

 

[david4451]

I've owned my 2001 4wd ST from new, so I'm the only one to remove tb's and there was/is foam under my plate.
Having said that I have the original Ford manuals and they do not show this "foam" I'm talking about!
I can see the reason for this foam, as the plate will sit deep in its retaining rim, possibly requiring the bolt putting twist on tb to be screwed futher in to get the ride height to specification.

 

[swshawaii]

Earlier Gen 2 (95-97) had Kevlar pads bonded to the keys but they were redesigned from 1998-2001.


Replace Those Torsion Bar Adjusters!!!
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=112983

Alternatives to the torsion key kevlar pads
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=393048

 

[david4451]

Thanks for info.
Looks as if Helmuts is different as his is 02 ST. Ford probably put this foam in to stop vibration transmission through to the chassis, instead of "kevlar" on the key.
My ST runs fine with no tb problems, my replacement for "foam" will out last me!