Torsion Bar Relocator Kit?

[Nfuriate]

Originally posted by section525
I measured. They're about 4" too wide. Plus, the mounts are too wide as well. It would take a lot of hacking. Enough to just do a SAS I think.

lower arm couldn't be THAT hard to make right? even using the old torsions and moving the mounts back couldn't be THAT tough for a bunch of off road guru's like yourselves.

 

[Robb]

Just an idea, but would it be possible to weld on a t-bar female "socket" in the back of the X lower control arm, where there is just a hole now? Then maybe use F150 t-bars?

Just an idea from looking at those two pics...............

 

[JDraper]

I haven't looked to see how symmetrical they are, but how 'bout swapping the left and right LCA's on the X? I know the shock and swaybar mounts would be in the wrong place, but that could be overcome....

 

[Nfuriate]

i think you'd have shock locations to worry about and probably a lot of other stuff if you swapped sides, but what about welding the female end onto the back side like Robb said? The arm might bend unless there was a piece strengthening it, which also sounds pretty easy.

by they way, y'all post QUICK on this board!

 

[section525]

EDIT: I am an idiot.

 

[section525]

Here is a rough diagram:

 

[JDraper]

Oh well, scratch that idea....

 

[section525]

Also, from the pic, it doesn't look like you would have a strong enough area to make a new mount from.

Nfuriate is right. Custom lower control arms with built-in torsion bar riser mounts.

 

[Nfuriate]

Originally posted by section525
Nfuriate is right. Custom lower control arms with built-in torsion bar riser mounts.

Word! Break out the welders and beer fellas.

 

[Hokie]

Originally posted by JDraper
Oh well, scratch that idea....

Dammit.. I'm still gonna have to buy a Jeep after College ain't I?

 

[Premier]

This thread makes me sad now...

 

[section525]

Its not over yet. Check this out...

All you gotta do it get longer hex rods to go through the control arm, than either shorten up, or move your tbar mounts back (or both). Yeah?

 

[Premier]

That might work, but that hex rod would have to be veeery strong.

 

[TarHeel085]

Originally posted by section525
Its not over yet. Check this out...

All you gotta do it get longer hex rods to go through the control arm, than either shorten up, or move your tbar mounts back (or both). Yeah?

hmmm, that looks like it could work. and Nfuriate your in G-vegas? im in Wilson for school.

 

[etc]

In that case, either the head of the t bar or the slot on the real lift bracket need to be at an angle.

 

[Robb]

Originally posted by TarHeel085
im in Wilson for school.

Barton? Went there my first year.

sorry for OT post

 

[Nfuriate]

that picture makes it look like it would have to be at an angle, but none of the realift brackets are angled. The longer hex looks like it would work.

yeah i spend most of my time in greenville and weekends home in spring hope. and i have a friend or two at barton.

 

[Jefe]

Its still possible. The add-on piece would just go all the way through the A-arm. But then the torsion bar mount would have to be that much further back, or find new shorter torsion bars.

Edit: Ok, that was a little late. . guess it helps if you read ALL the pages

 

[2001ExpSport]

Originally posted by Hokie
88-03 Full Size G.M. & H.D.'s = $239.95- $269.95 + T&S
82-03 G.M.(S-10),(S-15),(ZR2) = $239.95- $259.95 + T&S
03 Hummer (H2) = $259.95 + T&S shorter t- bars required
97up Full Size Ford = $239.95-$259.95 + T&S

Why on earth do those things cost so friggin' much?!

Especially when the bars have gone from being twisted to being pushed to either side.

Since the geometry of the bar's movement has comepletely changed I am surprised these haven't failed yet.

 

[Nfuriate]

is there really any change in the bars' movement? they're relocated at the front and back so the whole bar just moves higher, it's not flexed any more.