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Transmission filter change on a 4x4

I'd be more concerned with the 12 quarts of old fluid, but it surely doesn't hurt to change the filter more. If you replace it again, I'd consider a better filter brand. Most people have nothing nice to say about Fram filters.
Funny, went I researched it, it was coming out on top even here on this forum. Well better luck next time.

This change is only 4.5-5 qts of fluid according to the manual. I would say that's about what came out. I believe the 12 comes into play if you drain the torque converter, but I'm not sure on that.
 



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The entire volume would come into play if you did a cooler line style flush. Changing 25 % of the fluid and filter is a great first service, but I'd want to change out the fluid in its entirety, especially if it is high mileage. What color was the old stuff?

I could be wrong about the Fram filters in the tranny. I am just in the habit of avoiding them altogether.
 






The entire volume would come into play if you did a cooler line style flush. Changing 25 % of the fluid and filter is a great first service, but I'd want to change out the fluid in its entirety, especially if it is high mileage. What color was the old stuff?

I could be wrong about the Fram filters in the tranny. I am just in the habit of avoiding them altogether.
It was a brownish red. Like I said a lot of gray sludge in the bottom of the pan, nothing on the magnet. There was one screw lying in there but I found where it went in the valve body and retorqued them all.
 






With towing you need those fluid changes. But only changing 5ish of 12 total isn't enough. About half is trapped above the VB, loosening it starts the drain of that. The TC should hold about four, too bad the 5R and most later TC's don't have a drain plug now. When I serviced my 98 V8 truck, I had the VB out and drained the TC. I used a deep pan when done, and it took a good 14-15 quarts to fill it.

For severe duty(towing too), an added external filter is wise. It adds a quart of capacity and they are easy to add using the existing rubber lines to the front cooler. Not the ideal way, but you can very carefully run the engine with the outlet hose removed and aimed at a drain pan. I'll let others describe how they do it. I've only done that once when I just wanted to quickly get some out to reduce the pan draining time.

Projectthread111.JPG
 






With towing you need those fluid changes. But only changing 5ish of 12 total isn't enough. About half is trapped above the VB, loosening it starts the drain of that. The TC should hold about four, too bad the 5R and most later TC's don't have a drain plug now. When I serviced my 98 V8 truck, I had the VB out and drained the TC. I used a deep pan when done, and it took a good 14-15 quarts to fill it.

For severe duty(towing too), an added external filter is wise. It adds a quart of capacity and they are easy to add using the existing rubber lines to the front cooler. Not the ideal way, but you can very carefully run the engine with the outlet hose removed and aimed at a drain pan. I'll let others describe how they do it. I've only done that once when I just wanted to quickly get some out to reduce the pan draining time.

View attachment 98014
I Don't do any severe towing, actually it's pretty light and not on any regular basis.
 






Good information! Was actually considering taking it in to have it done to avoid the hassle/mess. But, if shops are quoting that kind of money, I'll take it on.
I want you to know I'm having one more miserable time trying to get the bolts back in the pan, particularly those above the cat. I had a loss of patience moment and had to walk away for a bit.
 






Towing anything heats up the ATF way more than normal driving. You need to have fresh high quality brand ATF in it all the time. I use Amsoil for my vehicles, and it's near $9 a quart with shipping, but lasts longer than other fluids. It takes higher heat better.

If you have only changed about five quarts of ATF, the filter is the main thing you did. Depending on the fluid color and smell, I'd force more out now, or wait and do it again based on fluid quality very soon.
 






The description on Rockauto of the Fram filter gasket is that the holes are punched a little undersized "making it easier for technicians to secure the bolts that keep the gasket in place and aiding in installation". I read that to mean you push the bolts thru the pan and gasket before wrestling it into place under the tranny for tightening. In hindsight, would that have been possible...and, made life a lot easier when installing?
 






The description on Rockauto of the Fram filter gasket is that the holes are punched a little undersized "making it easier for technicians to secure the bolts that keep the gasket in place and aiding in installation". I read that to mean you push the bolts thru the pan and gasket before wrestling it into place under the tranny for tightening. In hindsight, would that have been possible...and, made life a lot easier when installing?
That's exactly what I did. Some of the bolts still fell back thru though. I ended up having four in place, one one each side. That made it easier. But it was still a pita to get those things to line up. I'm afraid I may have cross threaded one of them. It was one of the tuffest ones up over the cat. Well at least I finally got them all on. Just got back from driving it. It's acting a little weird at first but seems to be ok I think (hope). I certainly don't want this to cause a new set of problems.
 






Hmmm...I'm not exactly teeming with confidence to put up with this mess/hassle myself. Wondering...if a person were to be able to detach the cat at the rearward clamp, if that would allow more movement to get it out of the way a little?
 






Hmmm...I'm not exactly teeming with confidence to put up with this mess/hassle myself. Wondering...if a person were to be able to detach the cat at the rearward clamp, if that would allow more movement to get it out of the way a little?
My understanding of that situation is that you can't get to the top bolt on the rearward side of the cat. I can verify that observation. There is no way to get a wrench on that top bolt. The side facing you is a welded nut the bolt goes through. You'd end up having to take more than just the cat off to accomplish what your after here, like most of the exhaust. I know that's not what you wanted to hear but read it on another thread on this same topic plus saw it for myself. Right now seems I have a few leaks to address. More fun.
 






Whenever you do drop your pan, install a drain plug for next time.
 






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