Turbo Install Finished!

[V8RangerBoy]

Basically just wanted to show off the project. I spent alot of time getting it all together and another ~55 hours putting it in over the last week and wanted to show it off. I will be putting in the 39lb injectors and Lightning MAF in tomorrow so I haven't driven it yet, but I did fire it up and checked all the "vital signs" on it. Everything was good, short of the fact that I stuck a bolt in the end of the coolant recovery bottle line and forgot to take it out - had coolant spraying out from under the cap from the excess pressure. Other than that it went off without a hitch.

I left the glass packs in it just in case, but after starting it, they're gonna have to go. It's too quiet even with all four cats gone. After I drive it I'll see how it sounds in the cab, but chances are they're comin' out.

First shot of everything installed - Oil pump on the left, with the oil cooler right in front of it. The black tank to the right of the pump is the little sump we built for it.

Shot from straight behind. Wastegate's right between (and ahead of) the oil pump and sump tank.

Shot of the right framerail. I ended up just drilling through the frame and fishplating around it for the intake tube. Now that everything's in it's easy to see there would have been nowhere near enough room otherwise.

Right front fenderwell - the left tube (in the picture) is the intake, right tube is the charge side. Blow-off valve's near the bottom, pointed along the cab line to keep mud and water and crap out.

Tubing under the hood - I left the gap ahead of the filter so I had a place to put the washer and recovery bottles back in at.

Shot of the gauges, before I powered up the wideband. I'll change the pic once I put power to it.

I'll try and post something tomorrow if everything goes well. Big thanks to everyone who threw out the advice when I needed it - ended up being a huge help.

 

[TeckNine4]

That looks pretty serious (Sorry to intervene but where did you get the gauge backing and do you have blue lights behind it?)

 

[V8RangerBoy]

That looks pretty serious (Sorry to intervene but where did you get the gauge backing and do you have blue lights behind it?)

I got the gauge pack from an eBay store. I paid like $25 for everything: shipping, the gauge overlays, and the little wiring package for it. They just basically stick like stickers over the factory gauge faces, and they're blue by design. The wiring that is included with the kit comes with an on/off switch. They're white during the day, and then they glow like that during the night. I was skeptical because of the price, but after almost 2 years now, I haven't had a single problem with them. I basically flip them on any time the trucks running because they're easier to read. For whatever reason they sometimes shut off when I turn my blower knob from like high to off, but they never hesitate to start right up when I hit the switch.

I would definitely buy them again without a second thought. They're just as nice as any of the $100+ gauges I've seen in other rigs. The only thing they don't have that I would sometimes like is the dimmer function, but it doesn't worry me too much. With the center gauges, the pillars, and the CD player going, the whole cab glows blue at night. It's pretty fun to drive.

 

[Jakee]

Nice work.

- get-r-tuned!

 

[TeckNine4]

I got the gauge pack from an eBay store. I paid like $25 for everything: shipping, the gauge overlays, and the little wiring package for it. They just basically stick like stickers over the factory gauge faces, and they're blue by design. The wiring that is included with the kit comes with an on/off switch. They're white during the day, and then they glow like that during the night. I was skeptical because of the price, but after almost 2 years now, I haven't had a single problem with them. I basically flip them on any time the trucks running because they're easier to read. For whatever reason they sometimes shut off when I turn my blower knob from like high to off, but they never hesitate to start right up when I hit the switch.

I would definitely buy them again without a second thought. They're just as nice as any of the $100+ gauges I've seen in other rigs. The only thing they don't have that I would sometimes like is the dimmer function, but it doesn't worry me too much. With the center gauges, the pillars, and the CD player going, the whole cab glows blue at night. It's pretty fun to drive.

Thank you "V8RangerBoy",those look pretty tight, Im looking for some now on ebay,,,,Hope that that your Turbo works out good with plenty of power.

 

[V8RangerBoy]

Update on the progress... got the injectors and MAF installed. I ended up using the Sniper Tuning software since I couldn't find a single person remotely close to me to do the tuning. Everyone that advertised "EFI tuning" fell through, so to Sniper I went.

I was skeptical in using it. I had a hard time finding really any info on how it worked or any true opinions from people and was worried about how well it would work. I put in a long call to the guys at Sniper and explained exactly what I was doing and needed, and they assured me the software was exactly what I needed. They were spot-on. The step-by-step menus are great. As long as you know what you have, you should be fine. Deciding which MAF to select to get the Lightning meter confused me at first, but I got it figured out and the rest of the programming went off without a hitch. Three test runs and I had the AFR laid out. 12.5:1 under WOT/boost on the third run and I was extremely pleased. The truck runs like a champ. No detonation, no pinging, all is well. I chose to set the computer's timing curve for 87 octane fuel, when in reality I'm using 91 to leave myself the buffer.

For anyone else looking at the Sniper software, I would definitely do it again. The menus go through every little thing imaginable, from Computer box code, injector size, fuel octane, fuel pump size, modifiable shift points and firmness, etc.. Fine tuning of the timing and AFR is available if need-be, but I would stay away from this without having access to a scanner or other means of reading real-time info from the ECM. Screwing with the timing without solid knowledge of the consequences would be bad news. After creating a "base tune" using their menu setup, a quick flash to the Sniper box and then a 2-min flash to the ECM and I was ready to fire it.

I had the injectors in in about 3 hours start to finish. When I first went to start the truck it wouldn't start, and there was fuel leaking. A quick snap down on the fuel rail to seal it onto the #1 injector and the truck fired right up. The base tune set the truck at about 14.3:1 under WOT, so I slowly went through the fine-tuning process and got the AFR to 12.5:1.

All in all I'm super pleased. The truck gains speed like nobody's business, and I got exactly what I wanted. I'll post pics when I go get my camera from the shop.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Nice work! I like how you got the air filter under the hood instead of under the body

 

[V8RangerBoy]

Nice work! I like how you got the air filter under the hood instead of under the body

Yes, sometimes up camping and whatnot I have to run through streams for brief periods, and I didn't want to take any chances on running it like Justin's. Not that his is bad, it just wouldn't work up here in Idaho with the way I live and having slushy roads and stuff.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

It wouldn't bother me for a street truck, but since you and I use ours off road, the only safe place is under the hood.

 

[justin146]

Update on the progress... got the injectors and MAF installed. I ended up using the Sniper Tuning software since I couldn't find a single person remotely close to me to do the tuning. Everyone that advertised "EFI tuning" fell through, so to Sniper I went.

I was skeptical in using it. I had a hard time finding really any info on how it worked or any true opinions from people and was worried about how well it would work. I put in a long call to the guys at Sniper and explained exactly what I was doing and needed, and they assured me the software was exactly what I needed. They were spot-on. The step-by-step menus are great. As long as you know what you have, you should be fine. Deciding which MAF to select to get the Lightning meter confused me at first, but I got it figured out and the rest of the programming went off without a hitch. Three test runs and I had the AFR laid out. 12.5:1 under WOT/boost on the third run and I was extremely pleased. The truck runs like a champ. No detonation, no pinging, all is well. I chose to set the computer's timing curve for 87 octane fuel, when in reality I'm using 91 to leave myself the buffer.

For anyone else looking at the Sniper software, I would definitely do it again. The menus go through every little thing imaginable, from Computer box code, injector size, fuel octane, fuel pump size, modifiable shift points and firmness, etc.. Fine tuning of the timing and AFR is available if need-be, but I would stay away from this without having access to a scanner or other means of reading real-time info from the ECM. Screwing with the timing without solid knowledge of the consequences would be bad news. After creating a "base tune" using their menu setup, a quick flash to the Sniper box and then a 2-min flash to the ECM and I was ready to fire it.

I had the injectors in in about 3 hours start to finish. When I first went to start the truck it wouldn't start, and there was fuel leaking. A quick snap down on the fuel rail to seal it onto the #1 injector and the truck fired right up. The base tune set the truck at about 14.3:1 under WOT, so I slowly went through the fine-tuning process and got the AFR to 12.5:1.

All in all I'm super pleased. The truck gains speed like nobody's business, and I got exactly what I wanted. I'll post pics when I go get my camera from the shop.

12.5:1 is super lean for a FI engine- mine is tuned to 11.3:1 at WOT. I would not trust my engine to a box tune from Sniper. I was more than happy to pay James to tune mine knowing it was done right. A turbo engines timing curve is really dependent on when boost comes in and IAT's. I dont see how choosing parameters from the drop down boxes in the Sniper software could get you anywhere close to a good tune. Also, I wouldnt run anything but 93 octane fuel- how high are your IATs at WOT?

 

[IZwack]

Sounds like its time to swap out the Mud Terrains

 

[Turdle]

Good ideas in here-thanks!

Can I see a shot of the header flange to downpipe area? it must be tight in there--

 

[V8RangerBoy]

12.5:1 is super lean for a FI engine- mine is tuned to 11.3:1 at WOT. I would not trust my engine to a box tune from Sniper. I was more than happy to pay James to tune mine knowing it was done right. A turbo engines timing curve is really dependent on when boost comes in and IAT's. I dont see how choosing parameters from the drop down boxes in the Sniper software could get you anywhere close to a good tune. Also, I wouldnt run anything but 93 octane fuel- how high are your IATs at WOT?

Everything I read puts the "acceptable" AFR for boosted (turbo or super-) in the range of 11.0 to 13.0:1. Richer is definitely more desirable in A) lower altitude settings, b) higher boost settings, and c) wildly high IAT's. I'm currently at over 3800' where I live, so ambient atmospheric pressure is only about 12.5-13.0psi as opposed to ~14.7 at sea level. The wastegate's set for 5.8psi and I'm only pushing about 4.5-5 when I get into it. The truck gains speed too quick for me to keep my foot in it much farther. I haven't been PUSHING it, but I haven't been grannying it around either. It very rarely sees WOT. I've been cruising around like I would consider 'normal' and haven't had a single problem. The IAT's I have yet to check. I will have to figure out how I can use my dad's Gynesis OTC scanner from his shop to read the IAT's since my OBD-II plug is on the engine side of the firewall (by the battery), instead of under the dash. It'll be wierd to try and drive with that sticking out of the hood.

The drop down menus in the program are solely to get the rough parameters set for the ECU so that it actually runs. Like we discussed before, it was agreed that there was no way it would run with the 39's and LMAF on a stock tune, so that was a large reason of why I had to go to Sniper to get it running. I 'answered' all the boxes for what I have in the truck, flashed the tune from my computer onto the Sniper interface box, and then flashed the truck computer, and it lit up without a problem. The open loop is a little bit off - truck doesn't quite like to idle like it should for a little bit, but it doesn't bother me. I'll call the Sniper tech's on Monday or Wed and get the problem resolved.

After the truck was running and driveable (which it lit right off and ran like a champ using their software) I just cruised and watched the air/fuel and boost and how it acted and made my fine-tuned adjustments with the appropriate "Fine-tuning" part of the software. If you didn't know what you were doing, it would definitely be easy to screw the timing and AFR proportions up in this part of the program, no doubt about it. I just took small steps and worked up to what I wanted with the AFR adjustments. I left the timing completely alone; I see no need to change it. As summer rolls around I might retard it a little bit to give myself a little bit more of a buffer for the higher IAT's. Air temp up here right now is only about 30F. Summer it's more like 100-110 so I'm betting I'll need to back the timing off just a little bit.

91 octane is the "Premium" grade up here in Idaho for most places. Very few places in the state sell any better, so that was the best option available. I intentionally fudged on the fuel octane in the tune to give myself the buffer in the timing, and I have yet to hear it detonate or ping AT ALL, so I'm truly not concerned. I made my dad ride with me and see what he felt about it. He has more experience with engine building and tuning than anyone I know. I trust him with my life and pride and joy when it comes worrying about burning a motor down, and I'm not even close to anything he's ever experienced pinging or det in. He has an original 428SCJ from a '68 Shelby 500 that he's melted down more than once, and he's fully aware of what to watch for. The guy's been in and around hotrods and cars 5 days a week, 52 weeks a year for almost 35 years now (owned a shop for over 15), so I feel like he's no doubt a super-trustable source. Granted he's my dad, so he gets a few extra brownie points, but I trust him hands-down when it comes to something like this. What he says goes. He felt like I had not a single thing to worry about as long as I wasn't a total f'in bonehead when driving it, so I really feel fine about everything.

I also talked to my stepdad about everything, who also has been a full time mechanic for over 30 years (worked for my dad until, well, he became my step dad haha) and he felt the exact same about it all. He basically gave me an identical story on the whole scenario as what my dad gave, so I feel really confident in how it runs right now.

It's not that I don't trust your opinion. Obviously you've had your Exploder up and running alot longer than I have, and I truly do value your thoughts on it. I'm not saying anything that you've said is wrong, just that for how I drive the truck and what I do, everything is working exactly as intended.

 

[V8RangerBoy]

Jtsmith -

 

[Turdle]

Ok
Thanks-

 

[CDW6212R]

Very good, I like all of it except the frame cutting. I avoid altering the frame for anything, I hope that it continues to work for you. I'm on the fence about a turbo also, the under hood space is very limited.

I would have James tune it if possible, you would need a laptop. Regards,

 

[jah81592]

What is your final timing you are running? 12.5:1 ???? Too lean, especially when you are using 91oct. I really recommend 11.6:1 for your application. Even with meth injection 12.5:1 is lean. Too lean causes the cylinder pressures to be high and lowers the detonation threshold. Furthermore, the 5.0L doesn't have knock sensors to police what is going on like the SOHC 4.0L's do. So you have thrown another variable in the equation. Be real careful my friend. I am just trying to help.-j

I agree with justin about the timing tables, but I also understand several states only offering 91 as thier "premium fuel". Either way 12.5:1 is too lean! One interesting thing to note is a pull lasting only 3 seconds will "toast" an engine. I have seen it many times. Listening for detonation is an indicator that it is too late once you hear it. The pinging you hear is many times stronger than the standard combustion process. Combine that with the weak pistons in the 5.0L and you have a recipe for terror. Especially on a nice hot summer day.Before you can let off the throttle you have the potential for cracked ring lands, holes in pistons, bent/broken rods,etc. Unfortunately people don't realize the deal with tuning. It is so much different than the days of yesteryear. You cannot skimp on it. Something to note is that when you are tuning to properly have the vehicle determine load,spark tables,etc. Custom tuning is exactly that. Custom tuning and Fords have a minimum of 25-30 tables which should be changed before a full throttle pull should ever be done. Not only that how do your short terms look? This is solely determining how the vehicle will drive. This is where you will spend 90% of your driving!

 

[CDW6212R]

James, your lettering is green, pretty! I have spent some time on the Corral forum lately. Whew they would make you cringe at how they tune pre-OBDII cars.

I'd suggest having the engine tuned properly. You have invested a lot of quality time into the truck, now make the PCM happy and make it drive even better. Good luck,

 

[TeckNine4]

Thats excellent,,, I would bump the boost (psi) up to over 10 pounds with all good internals,,, Pistons with the finest hardware available for 5.0 only tho,,, Ive seen those 347 stroke Engines in Mustangs blast 22 PSI!!!:exp:

 

[reserved50]

yea im worried on the frame cutting, first thing I noticed. I would install at least a 1/8" plate , closer to maybe 3/16" on the bottom edge of the rail to keep it from folding because it will, under stress and if in an accident.

I run 12.5-1 under boost with 94 octane and Im running on the edge of ping on a warm day and add 2 deg overall on a cooler day, depends how close to the edge you want to go, it is pushing it though