UCA bolt nightmare

[GLOCKer]

Is yours the OHV or SOHC? And having on a lift makes ALL the difference in the world....if that was the case as well.....and then air ratchets etc...

Yes to all of that except the motor. I've got the V8 in my 1998.

The lift and tools where pretty sweet to have access to!

 

[EB4X]

Yes to all of that except the motor. I've got the V8 in my 1998.

The lift and tools where pretty sweet to have access to!

So yeah...with your V8 your fuel EVAP lines were definitely in another spot..... oh...and that ground wire mounted right next to bolt was sweet as well...which required swivel adapter...

 

[GLOCKer]

So yeah...with your V8 your fuel EVAP lines were definitely in another spot..... oh...and that ground wire mounted right next to bolt was sweet as well...which required swivel adapter...

Yikes. So I was extra lucky!

 

[koda2000]

I've never required adjustable camber plates on any of my Explorers Mountaineers or my ST. My alignment guy has always been able to bring my alignment into factor spec w/out them. I've done ball joints on SOHC's, OHV V8's, 2WD and AWD and never had any real issues with the UCA bolts. I've never owned an OHV V6, I don't see any reason it would be different from a SOHC, but IDK.

 

[CDW6212R]

The evap lines are the same in all 2nd gens, the only difference there will be, is the one extra fuel line nearby in 95-98's. The large evap line goes forward in all of them, to the solenoid mounted under the battery, under the fender. I have three of these, one with a SOHC. Only the first one I worked on, my 98 Mercury, was a pain the first time I did the camber bolts. That was in 2003, yes it did take a while to figure out how to remove the UCA bolts on the drivers side. But each time I've done than since has been way easier than that first time.

As others said, it just takes the right manipulation of the control arm when the bolts are loose. Done right, you shouldn't have to loosen the hold down for any of the lines.

 

[410Fortune]

CORRECT
You only have to pop the two EVAP lines out of the white plastic clip. Once again, loosen front and rear bolts, push the front of the control arm in as far as it will go, pull the rear out as far as it will go, now remove rear bolt. Now pull the rear of the control arm out as far as it will go and push the front in, now you can remove the front bolt while you twist the bolt so it will clear and come out. Install the new UCA in the exact same order, just reversed.


I have done UCA on about 30+ Gen II explorers and mountaineers if not 50 or more.............
All 3 engines use the same EVAP system 96-2001 Gen II explorer 4.0 pushrod, 4.0 sohc and 5.0

 

[CDW6212R]

Well said from experience, that method will help anyone get the job done without too much trouble.