V8 Engine ??

[Volv8]

I am doing a V8 Volvo conversion using a 96>01 V8 engine with 4RW70 Trans. I have a couple questions . I will be using the car for a TOW vehicle for my tandem jet ski trailer.

1 Is there a BETTER year engine to use?

2 I understand these engines use GT40 or GT40P heads BETTER cams on either head?

3 Are most of the internal parts same as mustang if so what years?

4 Are these engines considered small block (WINDSOR)???

5 Can the mustang intakes be used ??


Thanks Todd

 

[Carguy3J]

Just how the hell do you expect to get this through inspection?

Have you considered the additional weight of a V8, vs the Volvo motor? This can have a substantial impact on safety and handling?

It sound like an interesting project, but just be sure to plan it out , and account for all the variables

What kind of Volvo?

 

[Volv8]

Just how the hell do you expect to get this through inspection?

Have you considered the additional weight of a V8, vs the Volvo motor? This can have a substantial impact on safety and handling?

It sound like an interesting project, but just be sure to plan it out , and account for all the variables

What kind of Volvo?

These conversions have been done since the EARLY 90's using the Mustang 5.0.
Inspection NO problem car is a 1991 945Turbo 20 years in MD is Historic so in 2011 it will qualify.
As far as the extra weight they installed Diesel engines in these car in Europe and other countries I am doing coilovers with 600 Lb springs and Brembo 4 piston calipers and 13 inch rotors.

 

[99SportX]

The explorer 5.0 would be an excellent candidate for this conversion. If you use a 96-97 model, you will avoid any electrical issues with the anti-theft system. 98-01 will require disabling the anti-theft PATS system in the ECU with either a flash tuner or a trip to the dealer.

The Volv8 guys should have some tips as to what year explorer would be best but that is my opinion on the matter.

I would like to do this same project with a 240 series volvo at some point using an explorer V8 setup. I feel I have a pretty good understanding of the systems both electrically and mechanically by now so that it would not be too much trouble.

It is a small block ford and similar to mustang 5.0. Most parts fit The front accessory drive is lower profile than the mustang. One thing to note is the engine balance is 50oz so you need to make sure you use parts compatible with the balance if you decide to change internals.

 

[ranger7ltr]

Ford V8 conversions are cake....

Way back in the day, I bought an 88 760 Turbo that had a blown head gasket and a perfect body...I used a 93 EEC-IV processor and wiring harness and tied it into the body harness...

I used a tranny from a TBird Supercoupe [5 speed] behind the V8 and included the standard hardware to make the ecu happy...X pipe, O2 sensors, etc...

Honestly, the weight difference is less than 100 lbs between the turbo 4 banger to the 5 liter and it got lower when I installed aluminum heads on it...Handling was just as neutral and the fun factor was a 100% improvement...I also do not recall needing to alter the brakes on the car but that has been many years ago...

I also have converted 2 Merkur Scorpios which are very similar to the Volvo sedans in size and layout...

To your questions...

The cars are lighter than the Explorer so the power available from a 5 liter configured for a car not a truck...All the Mustang performance parts work with the engine very well...What I prefer to use is a custom ground camshaft , the Explorer front end dress[shortens the engines front footprint], the Explorer intake since it is cheaper than the GT-40 unit yet flows very close to that unit...The GT40 and GT40P iron heads are similar except the P heads have the spark plugs at a weird angle with limits the headers you can use with them...Personally I like the aluminum Canfield heads with either a stock-ish Windsor engine to a lopey cammed stroker small block...This class of5.0 and 5.8 liter Ford engine is known as the Windsor...IT is known by the removable front timing cover and the wet intake manifold with the thermostat housing at the front face of the intake...

 

[Volv8]

Ah so the 98 Mounty engine I had my eye on @ a local Pick N Pull should stay? Okay I am thankful for the amount of help I am getting already from you guys this is great!! If I have to go through a little more work on the PATS disabling it it might be worth it really the engine has 120K and I will freshen it up a bit. I may consider doing a Supercharger later once the engine is in and running welll.

 

[Carguy3J]

It sounds like you would end up with a tuner/programmerr anyway, so you could go ahead with the '98, and have the PATS disabled in a custom tune, along with performance tuning.

 

[410Fortune]

98 is a great donor IMO

in 98 they have the P heads and the 4r70w was upgraded internally a bit

If you can deal with the PATS issue then a 98 donor is perfect

in 99 they went to a returmless style fuel rail also, something to consider... 96-98 have old school style return style fuel system, more desireable for conversions (I know nothing about your Volvo though)

Why would you want to use Mustang parts on that explorer engine?
LOL

the explorer gt-40p already has the shortest front dress available (serpentine accessories) the water pump is high output, it has a dual roller timing chain, it has hydo lifters, the only thing you may want to change is the exhaust manifolds, cam and possibly roller rockers......an intake spacer if you can stuff it under the hood of your car.
Most conversions also will swap the explorer oil pan for a classic style dual sump pan and oil pickup and you will want to re-locate the oil filter... the explorer has a funky lower radiator hose/oil filter cooler setup that is bulky, in 99 they did away with this and went to a more simple hose and filter mount.

I wouldnt plan on using Mustang intakes or accessories, the explorer gt-40 intake is sought after by mustang guys already... so is our waterpump, heads, and front accessories... LOL the 5.0L explorer got the best 5.0L ... because in 96 the mustang went to the 4.6....the 5.0L's were left over and Ford FINALLY shoehorned them into the explorer...

I put a 1997.5 Mercury Mountaineer gt-40p 5.0L and 4r70w into my 1988 Bronco II
I even converted the BII to full OBD-II diagnostics
the conversion is in my signature
Your conversion, believe it or not, minus the 4x4, is likely going to be very similar...

 

[Volv8]

98 is a great donor IMO

in 98 they have the P heads and the 4r70w was upgraded internally a bit

If you can deal with the PATS issue then a 98 donor is perfect

in 99 they went to a returmless style fuel rail also, something to consider... 96-98 have old school style return style fuel system, more desireable for conversions (I know nothing about your Volvo though)

Why would you want to use Mustang parts on that explorer engine?
LOL

the explorer gt-40p already has the shortest front dress available (serpentine accessories) the water pump is high output, it has a dual roller timing chain, it has hydo lifters, the only thing you may want to change is the exhaust manifolds, cam and possibly roller rockers......an intake spacer if you can stuff it under the hood of your car.
Most conversions also will swap the explorer oil pan for a classic style dual sump pan and oil pickup and you will want to re-locate the oil filter... the explorer has a funky lower radiator hose/oil filter cooler setup that is bulky, in 99 they did away with this and went to a more simple hose and filter mount.

I wouldnt plan on using Mustang intakes or accessories, the explorer gt-40 intake is sought after by mustang guys already... so is our waterpump, heads, and front accessories... LOL the 5.0L explorer got the best 5.0L ... because in 96 the mustang went to the 4.6....the 5.0L's were left over and Ford FINALLY shoehorned them into the explorer...

I put a 1997.5 Mercury Mountaineer gt-40p 5.0L and 4r70w into my 1988 Bronco II
I even converted the BII to full OBD-II diagnostics
the conversion is in my signature
Your conversion, believe it or not, minus the 4x4, is likely going to be very similar...

So the 98 mounty would be a good canidate.Where or WHO could do the tune to eliminate the PATS? Okay the reason I even mentioned the mustang parts i may consider a s/c later on. I have been checking out some of your build threads and am amazed at the amount of time and attention to detail you pun into them !! Okay so the 99 has returnless fuel and the Volvo of mine has a return fuel line. So no biggy there really. I can get the mounty engine @ the Pick n pull for about $300.00 and about 2 hours to pull it myself I do need the 4X2 transmission though but I need to get the engine first and collect of the rest of the bits. Again I want to say THANKS for all the that I have been getting and enlighting me on all the differences in regards to the engines.

 

[ranger7ltr]

A few more tidbits...

The Explorer/Mountaineer v8 would be a great piece to swap into your Volvo wagon...

The PATS issue isn't a real problem.. Neither is the returnless fuel system since the pre-99 has a return type fuel system, like your Volvo, and the Volvo also uses the same fuel pressures like any Ford V8[30-45 psi]...You can even use the in-tank/external fuel pump setup in the Volvo and it will run any engine you choose to install...

The wiring harness/PCM from 96 doesn't use PATS and will still control the V8 and the 4R70W...And you can use a 94-95 Mustang wiring harness/PCM to control the V8 and the tranny as well.. The older tranny was the AODE but easily adaptable...And again no PATS issues...I guess deciding whether to use the EEC-IV or the EEC-V system is another choice too...Both have merit and are usable for this application...

As far as using Mustang parts the availability of aluminum heads, long tube headers[which do fit in the Volvo chassis], various camshafts to tailor the powerband to the individual use of the engine and chassis, or power adders if you choose... As I stated earlier, the Explorer FEAD is the shortest, most compact setup Ford used on the small block Ford Windsor...

If you are looking to leave the Explorer/Mountaneer engine in stock form, I would probably adapt an earlier OBD II system without PATS for your application...If mods are in the cards then there are decisions to be made...While I have a programmer and have used it to alter conditions of a EEC-V system, I have also used the EEC-IV system when performance mods are in order...

 

[TestPoint]

Been searching the Volvo forums for someone doing this for some time.

I am putting a '00 Mountaineer 302 into an '82 Diesel wagon that I bought new some 28 years ago.

Have the engine with 11k miles on it, the matching transmission, computer and everything else connected to the engine. Found it in a local wreaking yard and negotiated a very good price and unlimited pick-and-pull privileges on their yard. It had been in warehouse storage for almost 9 years. One of the Firestone/Explorer rollover causalities.

I can give you some front end information and maybe we can help each other on the details.

The best starting configuration of the Volvo is the Diesel or V6 cars. They have stronger springs, vented front brake rotors, the best rear end ratio (3.31) and the radiator will work. Even the transmission mount cross member works better than the 4 cyl car.

First thing you are going to have to do is replace the oil pan and oil pick up tube with ones from the '85-'93 Mustang, often called a 'Fox Bodied' car. The later model oil pan will not clear the cross member/steering rack. You are going to have to beat a little clearance in the top center of the transmission tunnel and remove the transmission linkage arm (auto) and bend it out of the way before you even try to fit the engine. If you try to bend it on the shifter assembly you will damage something else.

The engine will fit nicely and there is not much room to vary the location for motor mounts either side to side or front to back. The engine is positioned close to the firewall and offset about 5/8" to the right to allow steering wheel shaft clearance. You will have to make firewall heater hose modifications before installing the engine since there will be no clearance after.

That's where I am now. Just got the replacement pan and tube and the first decent weather day am going to try again to position the engine in the bay. I have pictures of the motor mounts but was going to wait until I had the engine located before having a local metal shop make them. If I get there before you do I will post the drawings.

Send me a PM and perhaps we can help each other get through this.

 

[410Fortune]

94-95 mustang harness ia not OBD-II and does still have a distributor, the Explorer GT-40 never had a distributor, just FYI

 

[Volv8]

Been searching the Volvo forums for someone doing this for some time.

I am putting a '00 Mountaineer 302 into an '82 Diesel wagon that I bought new some 28 years ago.

Have the engine with 11k miles on it, the matching transmission, computer and everything else connected to the engine. Found it in a local wreaking yard and negotiated a very good price and unlimited pick-and-pull privileges on their yard. It had been in warehouse storage for almost 9 years. One of the Firestone/Explorer rollover causalities.

I can give you some front end information and maybe we can help each other on the details.

The best starting configuration of the Volvo is the Diesel or V6 cars. They have stronger springs, vented front brake rotors, the best rear end ratio (3.31) and the radiator will work. Even the transmission mount cross member works better than the 4 cyl car.

First thing you are going to have to do is replace the oil pan and oil pick up tube with ones from the '85-'93 Mustang, often called a 'Fox Bodied' car. The later model oil pan will not clear the cross member/steering rack. You are going to have to beat a little clearance in the top center of the transmission tunnel and remove the transmission linkage arm (auto) and bend it out of the way before you even try to fit the engine. If you try to bend it on the shifter assembly you will damage something else.

The engine will fit nicely and there is not much room to vary the location for motor mounts either side to side or front to back. The engine is positioned close to the firewall and offset about 5/8" to the right to allow steering wheel shaft clearance. You will have to make firewall heater hose modifications before installing the engine since there will be no clearance after.

That's where I am now. Just got the replacement pan and tube and the first decent weather day am going to try again to position the engine in the bay. I have pictures of the motor mounts but was going to wait until I had the engine located before having a local metal shop make them. If I get there before you do I will post the drawings.

Send me a PM and perhaps we can help each other get through this.

Springs for the front end are no problem would do coilovers brakes again No prob lem would do Brembo conversion Now who did you get the conversion kit for the swap from?

My current NON V8 Volvo

 

[thomasfortney]

idk what camera mode was used in some of the pictures of the volvo, but It looks kinda like a small toy.

 

[TestPoint]

No kit. I have explored the Converse Engineering kit and cannot find anything that would compel me to send them $950. I have the JTR SBC conversion books which outlines all the issues to address. It's just that the Ford is a little different. No big deal.

Interested in doing this together?

 

[TestPoint]

OK, got the Fox body Mustang oil pan and pick up tube installed. Resolved the heater valve hose clearance with a couple formed 5/8" 90 degree hoses for less than $8.

Keep trying the engine and suspect clearance issues with the cast iron exhaust manifold. Found several 'block hugger' headers ranging from $89 to $300. Anyone know if I can make the OEM manifolds work or which of the 'hugger' headers best addresses this issue?

Stay tuned . . . I am going to get this done. I am taking pictures and will paste up a conversion site.

 

[99SportX]

What model volvo is that pictured? It looks like it has just a few custom touches, lol.

 

[TestPoint]

Spent several snowy days researching headers. The stock iron headers, especially on the right side just can't seem to compromise with the range of engine locations.

Sanderson seems to have the best dimensions displayed along with pictures. http://www.sandersonheaders.com/

I would appreciate anyone comments on the use of their FF1 or FF3 headers. Because of the GP40P heads these two are the only ones in their inventory that will allow spark plug changes. They even volunteered to mix the two, L & R if that helps.

I would also be appreciative of any other suggestions on other manufacturers. I find a number of new header for sale on eBay due to fitting problems. Don't want to join that club.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Best headers for the Explorer 5.0 are the Torque Monsters.

http://www.torquemonsterheaders.com/

Also, if you go with a Mustang EEC-IV, then you need to convert to a distributor AND add a standalone controller for the 4R70W such as the Baumann TCS.

http://www.becontrols.com/

 

[TestPoint]

Bought the Ford Racing 'shorty' headers made for the 'P' heads. Looks like they fit but the plug wires don't. $50 here, $50 there. Had to get out today in the convertible for the first nice day we have had in 6 weeks, or longer.

Tomorrow I 'stab' the engine/transmission, with the new headers, once again. I ought to keep a stroke count!

Going to try to stay with the full OBDII setup that came with the '00 engine/transmission. Ignorance is sometimes bliss.