v8 + explorer= ?

[boggs1227]

wow ok ... i think it's a 90 model 302...roller lifter block .the f-150 it came out of was the type year that has the headlights like our year explorers so i'm guessing 92-94 ...been a while hard to remember.looking at it today i can tell that the heads need the exhaust ports cleaned out seeing that there is a lot of flaky carbon deposits in there next to the valves so i think your right that the heads, manifold, oil pan all need to come off before just sticking it in the explorer and give it a good cleaning and new gaskets all the way around .

dont they make a standalone efi system for motors that makes a motor that came out of a older car with out fuelinjection into a fuel injected one with out useing any of the onboard system for manageing fuel and air from the factory?? i want to say holly made such a kit but been awhile.

 

[seth247]

All you have to do is pull the carb manifold and stick an EFI one on it. Along with the computer, harness, and any sensors the computer might require such as MAF, throttle, oil switch Etcetera.

The blocks are not different. Save for the roller/flat and the fuel pump will need replacing.

 

[smbracing]

something like this?
http://www.holley.com/502-20S.asp

 

[boggs1227]

thats it ! ...i knew i saw something like that years ago ...thanks

 

[410Fortune]

run the F-150 or Mustang computer and wiring, use the 93-95 MAS and EFI computer for a 5 speed car/truck

Run a built C4 if you can live without overdrive, E40D or AOD-E would be the ticket if you want overdrive

Carbs are okay, some people like them, but EFI is ALWAYS better IMO and the 5.0L EFI/MAS into a Gen I truck Ranger has been done 1000000000 times in every way possible
You will need:
dual sump oil pan and pickup
oil filter re-locate
trans x member/mount

then once its all in place its time to figure out the exhaust manifolds (headers), cooling system (stuff it in there), and exhaust.

Those are the BASICS
The info for wiring the EFI and MAS to your engine using a OBD-I/ EEC - IV computer is all over the internet
I would also convert the front of that engine to run a short serpentine front dress, later model F-150 and Mustang will have this, the Explorer has an even shorter setup, requires a different timing cover and waterpump, but would allow alot more room for cooling


I did not swap gas tanks, all I did was simply add a fuel tank pressure sensor to my Bronco II tank, I just happened to replace my current tank with a junk yard unit at the same time......

my conversion was more involved then yours ONLY because I went to a full OBD-II computer to run my GT-40P engine (DIS ignition) and 4r70w transmission (computer controlled)

 

[boggs1227]

thanks 410, after reading that i got a lot of questions but the one i like to ask you real quick is that you mentioned getting the pcm off of a f150 or mustang 5 speed.... i do want to have over drive back with the new transmission but why does it have to be from a 5 speed vehicle.does'nt
the e40d and aod-e automatics require a pcm from automatics and not 5 speeds ...forgive my stupidity ...... or is there another reason for that "engine/fuel injection wise" ?

thanks again !

 

[410Fortune]

good question

The E40d I believe is an electronically controlled version of the C6, so yes it needs a PCM OR stand alone trans controller ($$$$)

A C4 or C6 does not use a PCM to control anything, so you want a 5 speed computer
A AOD uses an input cable, again no PCM controlls so a 5 speed computer
an AOD-E uses a PCM to control the 3-4 and lock up converter shifts I believe, so it needs a PCM

The sky is the limit here, you can use any transmission you want really, you can run a 4r70w behind it with a stand alone controller, but thats big $$$$

With all the 5.0L conversions out there the MOST popular has to be the simple Mustang OBD-I computer and then convert to MAS or start with a MAS PCM. this gives you simple simple wiring, you keep your distributor, you get EFI and MAS and you can run any simple trans you want behind this setup, the computer and engine and all systems are kept a real simple stand alone unit.
So many Rangers running around with that setup its silly, tried and true, proven, reliable, simple and CHEAP in comparison

When people ask me aabout V8 conversions my first question is:

what t case do you want to run?
if they are 2wd
its:
what trans do you want to run?

work backwards.....this will decide what engine computer you need if you start at the t case and work forward.....big $$$$ conversions it does not matter because there are stand alone trans controllers and even OBD-II engine PCM's out there these days, you dont have to use the factory wiring and systems if you are mega rich LOL

 

[WickedWindsor]

If you are running an automatic, you'll want an automatic computer. While idleing in gear, a manaul comp may not idle high enough to stay running. An auto comp will bump up the idle while in gear to keep it steady. While I had my Mustangs, it was common for guys to want t he manual computer in their automatics because the manual computers had a slightly more aggressive program for more performance. Then on the other side of Mustangers were the guys who would put auto computers in their manual cars because while speed shifting down the track, the rpms would ride high for consistent shifts.

I ran an auto Mustang eec4 computer for my AOD when I had that tranny and it ran like a stock/reliable truck=good.

I'd suggest to run an auto with auto and manual with manual.

 

[seth247]

something like this?
http://www.holley.com/502-20S.asp

Now I see what your talking about.

1000$. That's a While lotta money for not much gain.

You could pick up the intake and comp from an EFI vehicle for much cheaper.

 

[boggs1227]

i agree ...would make life alot simpler but at what a cost compared to factory equipment lol ! maybe a good alternative to doing that in say a late model
70's car / truck ... but not with ours .

 

[410Fortune]

I'd suggest to run an auto with auto and manual with manual.

true! Up until the trans computer started controlling the shifts and converter lock up, now your auto computer is just confused because there is no auto to control!


So it depends and vareis with every different setup, thats exactly why I say start at the t case and work forward = points you to the computer that works for you

 

[seth247]

Yeah I can see were you would want that if you were doing a show/go car were you wanted the extra power and efficiency. But also wanted to keep the classic carb look. Cause all that would fit under the aircleaner and be inconspicous.

But if I were going to do that I would use that new system I saw in Muscle Mustangs. It looks like the old Weber carbs that had one stack for each cylinder. But is acuallu a hidden injector setup.

Would look soooooooooooo cool. I acuallu thought about doin that with my project for a while.

 

[boggs1227]

been looking for a decent engine stand online and the only thing i feel that would work is at northen tool ( got one kinda close to me) rated @ #1500 for 119.00 .whats the weight on a 302 long block anyways ? or is there a better place online to buy one :shifty_ey

 

[seth247]

Fully loaded can be upwards of 600.

 

[410Fortune]

craigslist.org all day long $50-100 here in co

 

[boggs1227]

k, looks like i have found most of my parts today now all i need is ruffly $375 for stand and transmission or maybe santa will help out ( you hear me you fat
bas%ard !? lol )

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/pts/937340895.html

this person is somewhat close to me .....any thing that i should look for when looking at the unit ....it's out of a mustang but comes with flywheel and converter. i hope for $275 it's not shot .so no pcm hook ups on an aod right just need a pcm off a 5 speed ...just checking

 

[boggs1227]

Fully loaded can be upwards of 600.

thanks seth and 410 .....i looked at craigslist and found a few but none looked all that hot so i think i rather have a new one at least that way i know no one tried to attach a v-12 or anything like that to it and stress the frame metal out . the new ones i found online were few but the rated #'s were anywhere from 1250 to 1500 and priced accordinlly ...would be nice to have a gear driven stand but not at $200 i can deal with out that feature .the only one i found was at northen tool and holds 1250 so if the long block ways 600-700 i think that may do the trick .

 

[seth247]

I got mine from local "whities pawn".

Yes that's the name and no I didn't see anyone named whitie there.

I can't for the life of me remember how much it cost. Under a hundred. But its held up fine for a while now. It was bowing just a bit when I had the full engine and accessories on it.

Ask him how many miles are on that trans. Might have some one go through it and replace the bands and such.

 

[410Fortune]

LOL I still dont own a engine stand, I have borrowed one from a friend when I needed one, wood pallets and old 33" tires are my engine stands! I have 5 engines in storage LOL I could use some nice $50 stands

I did buy a 1 ton hoist finally! I got a floor model close out from my local checker 3 years ago for $80

BII & 96 XLT = budget build

 

[boggs1227]

i am lucky tho on the hoist ( somewhat lucky i guess ) i got a hoist that was the "community hoist" amunst me and my friends ...ended up over at my house and has been sitting in the woods now for years ...the hydrolic ram is shot and needs a new one but other than replaceing that ...digging it out of the dirt .....replaceing the rollers on it ...and oiling it up should be good to go LOL .... yeah it's in REALLY good shape right now lol ......
but fixable .


tires can be a many use thing .... i've did that before works ok till the engine starts to topple over then it's get the wooden blocks out to brace it back up ....lol .....that jasper engine is supported by nothing more than the pan and some well placed blocks .....still amazed that it's not fell over yet: