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V8 Intake Manifold Swap

Bob Esseltine

New Member
Joined
June 26, 2018
Messages
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City, State
Chapala, Jalisco
Year, Model & Trim Level
2006 Eddie Bauer V8
I have a 2006 V8 Eddie Bauer throwing misfire codes on #5 & #7 cylinders with an occasional intake runner "out-of-range" code. After replacing almost everything else without any success, I am thinking that my intake manifold may have a crack somewhere where I can't see it, the throttle shafts are worn or the CMCV actuator motor is getting flaky. Problem is, the intake manifolds from Ford are NLA (#6L2Z-9424-FA) and there is no aftermarket replacement. I have been able to find a brand new one for the 2009-10 model (#9L3Z-9424-F) at a lower price than what it would cost me to just buy a new CMCV actuator motor. The 2009-10 manifold comes with a new CMCV actuator motor and linkages and looks a lot beefier in the area where it bolts onto the cylinder heads. The only minor difference I can see is it uses a slightly different design with heated PVC fitting on the front of the intake manifold beside the throttle body. The 2006-2008 PCV fitting is heated by coolant, the 2009-10 has an electrical connection instead. The fitting bolts (W709552) may also be a different length.

Anybody have any advice or experience with trying to adapt the 2009-10 V8 intake onto a 2006 V8 Explorer motor?
 



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Bob -

I replaced the runners on my 06 few years ago, can you replace just that as opposed to the whole assembly ?

 






Bob -

I replaced the runners on my 06 few years ago, can you replace just that as opposed to the whole assembly ?

If by "runners" you mean the butterflies and shaft, I don't think so since they look a bit different. I have not considered it as I have the whole intake manifold assembly. I don't think Ford sells any parts for the intake assembly other than the gaskets, actuator motor and links/clips.
 






Sorry, I meant the runners actuators or whatever that's called. The mechanism behind the manifold with the electric motor and the arms :)
 






Yes you can replace just the actuator motor that is on the rear of the intake. The Ford service manual refers to it as the "Charge Motion Control Valve" or CMCV. Current part# is 7L2Z-9J559-A and costs $186 at Tasca Ford parts online.
 






I have a 2006 V8 Eddie Bauer throwing misfire codes on #5 & #7 cylinders with an occasional intake runner "out-of-range" code. After replacing almost everything else without any success, I am thinking that my intake manifold may have a crack somewhere where I can't see it, the throttle shafts are worn or the CMCV actuator motor is getting flaky. Problem is, the intake manifolds from Ford are NLA (#6L2Z-9424-FA) and there is no aftermarket replacement. I have been able to find a brand new one for the 2009-10 model (#9L3Z-9424-F) at a lower price than what it would cost me to just buy a new CMCV actuator motor. The 2009-10 manifold comes with a new CMCV actuator motor and linkages and looks a lot beefier in the area where it bolts onto the cylinder heads. The only minor difference I can see is it uses a slightly different design with heated PCV fitting on the front of the intake manifold beside the throttle body. The 2006-2008 PCV fitting is heated by coolant, the 2009-10 has an electrical connection instead. The fitting bolts (W709552) may also be a different length.

Anybody have any advice or experience with trying to adapt the 2009-10 V8 intake onto a 2006 V8 Explorer motor?
Just an update. I got around to swapping the intake manifold - putting the 2009 OE manifold (#9L2Z-9424-F) onto my 2006 engine (replacing the old #6L2Z-9424-FA) on the weekend. Bolts up fine, easy swap, no issues. The newer manifold requires shorter bolts (qty. 10) than the ones from the 2006 which are about 63 mm. long. The new manifold is not as thick through the runner area so could use a bolt no longer than about 50 mm. in length (about 1/2" shorter) but I reused the old bolts by just threading a 6 mm. nut up to the top of the threaded section of the old bolt. Also the newer manifold uses an electrically heated PCV inlet rather than the coolant headed inlet on the old manifold but I don't need that anyway because it never freezes where I live. On a test drive the acceleration seems better and much more even. I did notice a lot of backlash in the old actuator motor so the new manifold seems to work well. Unfortunately, didn't solve my problem with misfires and too lean mixtures. I'll keep on looking.
 






Have you checked fuel pressure?
 






The OBDII freeze frame at time of misfire read 330 kPa (47 psi).
Getting the lean mixture codes - P0135, P0141, P0155. P0161, P0443, P2270 and the idle becomes rough, hesitation and slight bucking under load. Since all the O2 sensors were changed not long ago, and the problem is intermittent and more prevalent when the engine is warming up, I suspect a wiring issue such as a poor ground somewhere. As noted, after I changed the intake manifold assembly out, it ran like a swiss watch for 2 days then started the misfire crap again.
 






The OBDII freeze frame at time of misfire read 330 kPa (47 psi).
Getting the lean mixture codes - P0135, P0141, P0155. P0161, P0443, P2270 and the idle becomes rough, hesitation and slight bucking under load. Since all the O2 sensors were changed not long ago, and the problem is intermittent and more prevalent when the engine is warming up, I suspect a wiring issue such as a poor ground somewhere. As noted, after I changed the intake manifold assembly out, it ran like a swiss watch for 2 days then started the misfire crap again.
Did you ever resolve your misfire issue? I'm in the middle of doing the intake swap for the 08-10 onto a 2007EB and am in process of figuring out how to shorten the bolts. It seems the bolts need to be about 3/4 of inch shorter.
 






Did you ever resolve your misfire issue? I'm in the middle of doing the intake swap for the 08-10 onto a 2007EB and am in process of figuring out how to shorten the bolts. It seems the bolts need to be about 3/4 of inch shorter.
No, I have not yet resolved the misfire issue. I "think" it is some sort of problem with the ECU where as it "learns" over time, the fuel mapping goes too far off. If I kill the power to the ECU and wipe the mapping out, the truck runs perfectly for a couple of days and then starts to misfire again as I drive more. I simply have not taken the time or $$$ to try and diagnose this any further - maybe later on. Going to take a Ford Tech with a great working knowledge and a diagnostic scope to sort this one out I think.

As far as the bolts go, I reused the old longer bolts. If you thread a 6mm. nut up onto the threads until they bottom out where the threads stop, the remaining exposed threads are just about the perfect length.
 






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