Valve body rebuild or something else?

[sypher9]

Hi my names Jonathan and I'm new to the forum. I recently acquired a '97 4.0l ranger xlt 4x4 extended cab with about 106k miles. I've been lurking on the forums for a few weeks browsing all of the information available. I've been having some issues with my transmission and think I need to rebuild the valve body.(I've been looking thru the sticky at the top) Specifically, I have a flare between 2-3 gear. Also it has trouble downshifting on the highway. When the transmission downshifts on the highway, it seems like it hits neutral before going into gear. Most of the time letting off the gas helps it get into gear. After downshifting it doesn't want to shift back into overdrive. Usually if I cut off overdrive and then cut it back on the transmission will shift back into overdrive; or if I come to a stop and then accelerate it shifts like normal. When I first start the truck and take off the transmission shifts fine. It has no problems downshifting, even at highway speeds. Its not until the transmission gets warm that I start having the shifting issues. The downshifting issue isn't as prevalent around town at lower speeds, but I still experience it especially when going up a hill.

troubleshooting done:
I do not know the maintenance history of the tranny, but I recently changed the filter and had it flushed. The fluid in it wasn't burnt, but a little dark. No the fluid is clean(using valvoline synthetic). The pan didn't have anything in it except a little sludge which I cleaned out. I also checked for engine braking in 1 and 2. Engine braking seems to be fine.

I am going to purchase a rebuilt valve body to install, but I wasn't sure if there was anything I was missing. The transmission shop seemed to think there was another issue in addition to the valve body and wanted $550 to open it up and do a full diagnosis. I don't think that is necessary, especially since it works great when cold. With the limited knowledge I have of automatic transmissions I feel like it may be an issue with one of the solenoids? I also forgot to mention that no lights are on and the computer doesn't have any stored codes. I've searched, but didn't see any threads about my shifting issue. Sorry if the post is a little long but I wanted to make sure I didn't leave anything out. Please help!

 

[DR_APLET]

well first welcome to the forum. i'm not a tranny guy and don't pretend to but i do know you have the 5R55E its about $600 for a rebuilt one that you only have to pay for installation which you would any way just for an evaluation. but if you were going that far you could put in a manual one. there are a lot of great threads here on transmission rebuilds just takes some looking. ask lots of questions people are pretty good about answering.

bump.

 

[sypher9]

Bump

 

[drdoom]

Jonathan, what transmission do you have? Is it a 5R55E? First, I am no transmission expert, I'm just a guy who does his own mechanical work out of necessity. OK here's what I think I know: The 5R55E can be devious to troubleshoot...as in you may need a $3.00 gasket, or you could sink as much as $4,000.00 in your transmission alone. There are quite a number of variables. It would be difficult to say that a valve body will fix it. Likely it may, but it is by no means a certainty. Jonathan, do you know the condition of your current valve body, and whether or not is has ever been updated? Having a look at the valve body is a pretty good place to start. What is often found is a blown separator plate gasket, which could be the problem. I have read that some rigs with blown separator plate gaskets run fine when cold, but when the fluid warms, the problems kick in.
EDIT: I am currently trying to get one of these transmissions to work myself, and like you, I am suspecting a solenoid as the root of the problem. I really can't say for sure, because I have not the equipment or knowledge to test a solenoid. I read somewhere here that they should be replaced at 75K.

 

[sypher9]

According to my owners manual I have the 5r55e transmission. I don't know the condition of the valve body, I'm just making an educated guess that it is the root of my problems. I'm pretty sure the valve body is all original and hasn't had any of the updates done to it. The pan didn't look as if it had ever been off. At this point I think I'm going to replace the valve body and the selenoids and hope it fixes my problem. If nothing else the selenoids probably need to be replaced as the transmission has over 100k on it.

 

[drdoom]

That sounds like a good call. I have done it before, it is pretty easy.