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Volvo 850 turbo wagon diversion
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2000StreetRod
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- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
Exhaust manifold removed
I was able to remove the allen head screws that hold the turbo oil drain but could not remove the pipe because of the adjacent water coolant pipe shown in the photo below.
I realized that if I removed the three banjo bolts securing the two water connections and the other oil connection I might be able to move the turbo aft enough for the exhaust manifold to clear it. After removing the banjo bolts I was able to extract the oil drain pipe and confirm there was no seal on the pipe or the sump to prevent leakage. It was not difficult to remove the three turbo to downpipe securing nuts or the four turbo to exhaust manifold securing nuts. Then I tied the turbo with cord as shown below to support its weight but allow movement aft.
I was able to remove 9 of the 10 exhaust manifold nuts/studs with a medium depth 1/4 inch drive socket I purchased specifically for the task. About half of the studs came out instead of the nuts. Access to the last nut was prevented by the EGR tube adapter so I loosened it with a flare wrench. My box wrenches are all 12 point which will slip on a hex nut or bolt that is very tight. I was able to work the exhaust manifold up and past the turbo without having to remove any of the vacuum connections or the air supply hose. In looking at the manifold (shown below) I realized why there were exhaust leaks.
I assume the previous mechanic had the same number of studs come out that I did. A thick sealant had been non-uniformly applied to the gaskets to keep them in place on the manifold. The sealant had apparantly hardened prior to the installation of the manifold leaving numerous cracks for leaks. I noticed when the engine ran for about 20 minutes that there was smoke coming from the manifold. I just assumed that there was still oil on it that had not yet burned off. You can see on the extreme left in the photo below the EGR tube adapter almost completely blocking the hole for the 10th mounting stud.
Today I ordered new gaskets, an EGR tube port plug and some seals. I attempted to remove the adapter using a 22mm 6 point socket connected to a 1/2 inch breaker bar. I used a 15 inch Crescent wrench to prevent the manifold from turning while hammering the breaker bar with my 4 pound hand sledge. I was not successful. I sprayed the adapter threads with PB Blaster and will continue spraying for a couple of days.
I was able to remove the allen head screws that hold the turbo oil drain but could not remove the pipe because of the adjacent water coolant pipe shown in the photo below.
I realized that if I removed the three banjo bolts securing the two water connections and the other oil connection I might be able to move the turbo aft enough for the exhaust manifold to clear it. After removing the banjo bolts I was able to extract the oil drain pipe and confirm there was no seal on the pipe or the sump to prevent leakage. It was not difficult to remove the three turbo to downpipe securing nuts or the four turbo to exhaust manifold securing nuts. Then I tied the turbo with cord as shown below to support its weight but allow movement aft.
I was able to remove 9 of the 10 exhaust manifold nuts/studs with a medium depth 1/4 inch drive socket I purchased specifically for the task. About half of the studs came out instead of the nuts. Access to the last nut was prevented by the EGR tube adapter so I loosened it with a flare wrench. My box wrenches are all 12 point which will slip on a hex nut or bolt that is very tight. I was able to work the exhaust manifold up and past the turbo without having to remove any of the vacuum connections or the air supply hose. In looking at the manifold (shown below) I realized why there were exhaust leaks.
I assume the previous mechanic had the same number of studs come out that I did. A thick sealant had been non-uniformly applied to the gaskets to keep them in place on the manifold. The sealant had apparantly hardened prior to the installation of the manifold leaving numerous cracks for leaks. I noticed when the engine ran for about 20 minutes that there was smoke coming from the manifold. I just assumed that there was still oil on it that had not yet burned off. You can see on the extreme left in the photo below the EGR tube adapter almost completely blocking the hole for the 10th mounting stud.
Today I ordered new gaskets, an EGR tube port plug and some seals. I attempted to remove the adapter using a 22mm 6 point socket connected to a 1/2 inch breaker bar. I used a 15 inch Crescent wrench to prevent the manifold from turning while hammering the breaker bar with my 4 pound hand sledge. I was not successful. I sprayed the adapter threads with PB Blaster and will continue spraying for a couple of days.
sport97
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Great work on the diagnostic and repair works, Dale. Hope your enjoying this work, because it seems to be alot of it. I hope it all pays off, that you end up learning some things, and that you get that cash for the v8 swap.
2000StreetRod
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ATF leak
I mentioned in an earlier post that there is an ATF leak. The red arrow in the photo belows identifies the location of an ongoing drip that increases when the engine is running.
When I attempted to tighten the bolt identified with the orange arrow it was obvious that the threads were stripped on the casting. According to the parts manual there is no gasket between the casting and the cover held on with 4 M6-1.0 bolts. There is just applied sealant. The shop procedure to replace any of the transmission components directs removal of the wheel, spindle, and axle. Then the subframe is loosened and lowered to allow access. Since the torque rod bushing (purple arrow) was shot I removed the torque rod assembly for more room. I also loosened and moved aside the ATF line from the external cooler where it enters the casting. Then using a 1/4 inch drive with a universal I was able to remove all 4 of the cover retaining bolts without removing the spindle, axle or lowering the subframe. When I pried the cover away from the casting most of the remaining ATF drained into a catch pan.
I mentioned in an earlier post that there is an ATF leak. The red arrow in the photo belows identifies the location of an ongoing drip that increases when the engine is running.
When I attempted to tighten the bolt identified with the orange arrow it was obvious that the threads were stripped on the casting. According to the parts manual there is no gasket between the casting and the cover held on with 4 M6-1.0 bolts. There is just applied sealant. The shop procedure to replace any of the transmission components directs removal of the wheel, spindle, and axle. Then the subframe is loosened and lowered to allow access. Since the torque rod bushing (purple arrow) was shot I removed the torque rod assembly for more room. I also loosened and moved aside the ATF line from the external cooler where it enters the casting. Then using a 1/4 inch drive with a universal I was able to remove all 4 of the cover retaining bolts without removing the spindle, axle or lowering the subframe. When I pried the cover away from the casting most of the remaining ATF drained into a catch pan.
2000StreetRod
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tailgate & leaks
I finally received my parts order containing the correct coolant pipe to head bolts. I replaced my substitute bolts with the new ones and kludged together a cooling system pressure tester using a tire pump, some hoses and adapter fittings. The system leaked at the head/coolant pipe connection. With the exhaust manifold removed I was able to detect that half of the original gasket was still attached to the flange in addition to the new gasket. Fortunately I purchased and received another gasket in my parts order because the one I installed was distorted by the old gasket remains. I removed the lower gasket section, installed the second new gasket, tightened things up and repeated the coolant pressure test. It leaked worse than before! I removed the second gasket and inspected it closely. I saw an impression from another piece of the old gasket near the top of the flange. I took some more things loose and was finally able to position the flange so I could see it's surface. I removed the last remaining piece but didn't have a third new gasket. Only one side of each gasket was indented so I used form-a-gasket to hold the two indented sides together. The gasket is thin so I think a double gasket is an improvement. This time the double gasket passed the pressure test.
While I was waiting on the parts to arrive I fixed the ATF leak with new RTV and a longer bolt that engaged threads that were not stripped. I also replaced the struts that keep the tailgate in position. I purchased and received another used W rated tire. I now have 3 Bridgestone Potenza RE 960 205/55R16 tires. They all have 8/32 inch or more tread depth. I'm watching for a fourth. I also purchased a new belly pan for the engine. There is a gap in the bellhousing that exposes several teeth on the flexplate ring gear that I wanted to protect. I spent some time applying leather conditioner and vinyl cleaner to the interior. I have the exhaust manifold installed and the turbo mounted to it. I just finished installing the turbo to oil pan drain pipe with a new seal. Next comes connecting the two water and one oil banjo bolt connections to the turbo.
I finally received my parts order containing the correct coolant pipe to head bolts. I replaced my substitute bolts with the new ones and kludged together a cooling system pressure tester using a tire pump, some hoses and adapter fittings. The system leaked at the head/coolant pipe connection. With the exhaust manifold removed I was able to detect that half of the original gasket was still attached to the flange in addition to the new gasket. Fortunately I purchased and received another gasket in my parts order because the one I installed was distorted by the old gasket remains. I removed the lower gasket section, installed the second new gasket, tightened things up and repeated the coolant pressure test. It leaked worse than before! I removed the second gasket and inspected it closely. I saw an impression from another piece of the old gasket near the top of the flange. I took some more things loose and was finally able to position the flange so I could see it's surface. I removed the last remaining piece but didn't have a third new gasket. Only one side of each gasket was indented so I used form-a-gasket to hold the two indented sides together. The gasket is thin so I think a double gasket is an improvement. This time the double gasket passed the pressure test.
While I was waiting on the parts to arrive I fixed the ATF leak with new RTV and a longer bolt that engaged threads that were not stripped. I also replaced the struts that keep the tailgate in position. I purchased and received another used W rated tire. I now have 3 Bridgestone Potenza RE 960 205/55R16 tires. They all have 8/32 inch or more tread depth. I'm watching for a fourth. I also purchased a new belly pan for the engine. There is a gap in the bellhousing that exposes several teeth on the flexplate ring gear that I wanted to protect. I spent some time applying leather conditioner and vinyl cleaner to the interior. I have the exhaust manifold installed and the turbo mounted to it. I just finished installing the turbo to oil pan drain pipe with a new seal. Next comes connecting the two water and one oil banjo bolt connections to the turbo.
sport97
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Gaskets can be such a pain. That thing was neglected pretty bad in its past life. Hope there is still some meat left on the bone for you to make money on the sale.
2000StreetRod
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No leaks!
I finally finished connecting the turbo lines, connected the air tubes, added coolant and engine oil, installed and connected the battery. I cycled the ignition key a few times and checked for fuel leaks. None! Then I cranked the starter and the engine immediately started even though it hasn't run for a couple weeks. No exhaust leaks at the exhaust manifold, turbo or down pipe! No coolant leaks where the coolant pipe attaches to head or at the turbo. No engine oil leaks at the turbo or where the drain line enters the pan! No ATF leaks! I am very pleased!
The engine idles very smooth and quietly. After it reached operating temperature I tried different engine speeds. It is very responsive and sounds strong with no load. I eventually raised the speed to 4,000 rpm and held it there checking for blue or black smoke from the tail pipe but didn't see any. I won't be able to check the turbo boost until I can drive the vehicle and load up the engine.
I purposely left the engine oil dipstick up so the crankcase was vented. As I suspected, once the engine warmed up puffs of smoke emitted from the dipstick. This means that the crankcase ventilation system is clogged. I know the path is open at the main intake fitting because I soaked the fitting with SeaFoam and blew thru it with a test hose. There's a large crankcase oil separator under the intake manifold that is probably clogged. If the engine were allowed to run very long unvented pressure would build up in the crankcase and eventually cause the rear main seal to leak. Unfortunately, the intake manifold must be removed to access the oil separator. I'll start removing the intake manifold after I install the new torque rod assembly.
I finally finished connecting the turbo lines, connected the air tubes, added coolant and engine oil, installed and connected the battery. I cycled the ignition key a few times and checked for fuel leaks. None! Then I cranked the starter and the engine immediately started even though it hasn't run for a couple weeks. No exhaust leaks at the exhaust manifold, turbo or down pipe! No coolant leaks where the coolant pipe attaches to head or at the turbo. No engine oil leaks at the turbo or where the drain line enters the pan! No ATF leaks! I am very pleased!
The engine idles very smooth and quietly. After it reached operating temperature I tried different engine speeds. It is very responsive and sounds strong with no load. I eventually raised the speed to 4,000 rpm and held it there checking for blue or black smoke from the tail pipe but didn't see any. I won't be able to check the turbo boost until I can drive the vehicle and load up the engine.
I purposely left the engine oil dipstick up so the crankcase was vented. As I suspected, once the engine warmed up puffs of smoke emitted from the dipstick. This means that the crankcase ventilation system is clogged. I know the path is open at the main intake fitting because I soaked the fitting with SeaFoam and blew thru it with a test hose. There's a large crankcase oil separator under the intake manifold that is probably clogged. If the engine were allowed to run very long unvented pressure would build up in the crankcase and eventually cause the rear main seal to leak. Unfortunately, the intake manifold must be removed to access the oil separator. I'll start removing the intake manifold after I install the new torque rod assembly.
2000StreetRod
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Intake manifold removed
Today I removed the intake manifold in preparation to inspecting the crankcase ventilation system. The front of the manifold is shown below.
I had to remove the fuel rail with injectors to access some of the manifold mounting bolts. One of the injectors was missing the grommet/insulator so I ordered five new ones. The rear of the manifold is shown below.
The red arrow identifies the brass plug that blocks the port to the missing EGR valve. I still don't know if that is stock from the factory or a later modification by a previous owner. So far I have not read any EGR related DTCs. The photo below shows the engine without the intake manifold hiding the crankcase ventilation system.
The large canister left of center with hoses attached is the oil separator. The hose that goes from the top of the separator to the top of the upper head section was routed incorrectly and almost completely crushed by the intake manifold. I hope to clean and reuse all of the hoses. A new aftermarket oil separator costs about $40 plus shipping.
Today I removed the intake manifold in preparation to inspecting the crankcase ventilation system. The front of the manifold is shown below.
I had to remove the fuel rail with injectors to access some of the manifold mounting bolts. One of the injectors was missing the grommet/insulator so I ordered five new ones. The rear of the manifold is shown below.
The red arrow identifies the brass plug that blocks the port to the missing EGR valve. I still don't know if that is stock from the factory or a later modification by a previous owner. So far I have not read any EGR related DTCs. The photo below shows the engine without the intake manifold hiding the crankcase ventilation system.
The large canister left of center with hoses attached is the oil separator. The hose that goes from the top of the separator to the top of the upper head section was routed incorrectly and almost completely crushed by the intake manifold. I hope to clean and reuse all of the hoses. A new aftermarket oil separator costs about $40 plus shipping.
2000StreetRod
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crankcase ventilation ports
The photo below shows the block after I carefully removed all of the crankcase ventilation hoses and the oil trap. I found the missing fuel injector grommet/seal behind the starter motor and two M7-1.0x30mm bolts behind the casting on the left that supports the power steering pump. The red arrow indicates a section of wires that are not within its loom.
Using various diameters of hoses I blew thru all of the crankcase ventilation ports and hoses identified by the green arrows and another one of the top of the upper head section. None of them were blocked. Then I blew thru all of the ports on the oil trap and none of them were blocked. I poured the rest of my can of SeaFoam into the oil trap to let it soak over night. There are a couple of possible explanations for the puffs of smoke from the oil dipstick tube. The hose section identified by the red arrow in the photo below was almost completely pinched closed by the intake manifold. There is a notch in the manifold further to the right that the hose should have been routed thru.
Or the low compression on cylinders #1 and #2 allow excessive blowby that exceeds the capacity of the small diameter tube to the main intake hose. I will clean the oil trap and reinstall it and the hoses with new clamps. I will repair the wiring loom and reinstall the intake manifold. The new injector grommets/seals are scheduled to arrive Friday so I'll wait for them before installing the fuel rail. I'll connect a vacuum/low pressure gauge to the oil dipstick tube and monitor the reading from cold start to engine fully warm.
The photo below shows the block after I carefully removed all of the crankcase ventilation hoses and the oil trap. I found the missing fuel injector grommet/seal behind the starter motor and two M7-1.0x30mm bolts behind the casting on the left that supports the power steering pump. The red arrow indicates a section of wires that are not within its loom.
Using various diameters of hoses I blew thru all of the crankcase ventilation ports and hoses identified by the green arrows and another one of the top of the upper head section. None of them were blocked. Then I blew thru all of the ports on the oil trap and none of them were blocked. I poured the rest of my can of SeaFoam into the oil trap to let it soak over night. There are a couple of possible explanations for the puffs of smoke from the oil dipstick tube. The hose section identified by the red arrow in the photo below was almost completely pinched closed by the intake manifold. There is a notch in the manifold further to the right that the hose should have been routed thru.
Or the low compression on cylinders #1 and #2 allow excessive blowby that exceeds the capacity of the small diameter tube to the main intake hose. I will clean the oil trap and reinstall it and the hoses with new clamps. I will repair the wiring loom and reinstall the intake manifold. The new injector grommets/seals are scheduled to arrive Friday so I'll wait for them before installing the fuel rail. I'll connect a vacuum/low pressure gauge to the oil dipstick tube and monitor the reading from cold start to engine fully warm.
2000StreetRod
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First drive a disappointment
I cleaned the oil trap which was not blocked and reinstalled all of the crankcase ventilation components, the intake manifold, new injector seals on the fuel rail. Going for broke I even installed the electric cooling fan and shroud. I installed a new throttle body gasket and then connected all of the intake hoses and tubes. I even managed to install the two piece exhaust manifold heat shield that keeps the paint from blistering on the hood. Being almost out of gas I decided to make my first drive to the gas station about 2.5 miles from home.
When backing out of the garage the brakes squealed due to all of the rust on the rotors. By the time I had driven the two blocks in my subdivision the ABS warning light extinguished. I suspect it came on when I ran the vehicle in drive to check the transmission while all wheels were off and the vehicle was sitting on jack stands. Having the front wheels goind 25 mph and the rears not moving must have been confusing to the ABS.
Almost as soon as I pulled out of my subdivision and started down the hill toward Wal-Mart's gas station a big arrow on the dash started flashing and the Check Enging light came on. I suspected it was related to the transmission but couldn't confirm that because I had left my owner's manual at home. At the bottom of the hill another symbol illuminated that I thought might be related to my cooling fan. Since the engine temperature was still normal I pressed on. Next the fuel low warning came on but I made it to the gas station without running out of fuel.
I read the DTCs in the parking lot but didn't have my manual to decode the only one shown: P0500
I decided to attempt to return home. Things went OK until I started up the hill to my subdivision entrance. It seemed like the transmission needed to shift down but wouldn't and the engine couldn't pull the hill in overdrive. I shifted to low but could only depress the pedal slightly or the engine would start to stall. Fortunately no one was behind me and I creeped up the hill at 5 mph and then thru the subdivision to my house going 10 mph on level ground. I learned that the flashing arrow indicates automatic transmission fault and P0500 is vehicle speed sensor malfunction. Hopefully, the engine just went into limp mode when the VSS faulted. The other indication was low coolant level because the thermostat opened up dropping the level in the pressurized overflow tank. The wagon is now back in the garage for diagnostics.
I cleaned the oil trap which was not blocked and reinstalled all of the crankcase ventilation components, the intake manifold, new injector seals on the fuel rail. Going for broke I even installed the electric cooling fan and shroud. I installed a new throttle body gasket and then connected all of the intake hoses and tubes. I even managed to install the two piece exhaust manifold heat shield that keeps the paint from blistering on the hood. Being almost out of gas I decided to make my first drive to the gas station about 2.5 miles from home.
When backing out of the garage the brakes squealed due to all of the rust on the rotors. By the time I had driven the two blocks in my subdivision the ABS warning light extinguished. I suspect it came on when I ran the vehicle in drive to check the transmission while all wheels were off and the vehicle was sitting on jack stands. Having the front wheels goind 25 mph and the rears not moving must have been confusing to the ABS.
Almost as soon as I pulled out of my subdivision and started down the hill toward Wal-Mart's gas station a big arrow on the dash started flashing and the Check Enging light came on. I suspected it was related to the transmission but couldn't confirm that because I had left my owner's manual at home. At the bottom of the hill another symbol illuminated that I thought might be related to my cooling fan. Since the engine temperature was still normal I pressed on. Next the fuel low warning came on but I made it to the gas station without running out of fuel.
I read the DTCs in the parking lot but didn't have my manual to decode the only one shown: P0500
I decided to attempt to return home. Things went OK until I started up the hill to my subdivision entrance. It seemed like the transmission needed to shift down but wouldn't and the engine couldn't pull the hill in overdrive. I shifted to low but could only depress the pedal slightly or the engine would start to stall. Fortunately no one was behind me and I creeped up the hill at 5 mph and then thru the subdivision to my house going 10 mph on level ground. I learned that the flashing arrow indicates automatic transmission fault and P0500 is vehicle speed sensor malfunction. Hopefully, the engine just went into limp mode when the VSS faulted. The other indication was low coolant level because the thermostat opened up dropping the level in the pressurized overflow tank. The wagon is now back in the garage for diagnostics.
2000StreetRod
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low fuel pressure - again?
I connected my external vacuum/boost gauge to the dipstick tube, filled the cooling system with distilled water and cleared the DTCs to get the engine out of limp mode. Then I cold started the engine and let it idle until fully warmed up while watching for leaks and monitoring the crankcase pressure. As coolant pressure built up I found and fixed three slow coolant leaks at hose connections by tightening clamps. The crankcase pressure never changed from atmospheric. I began to wonder if my gauge was working so I shut the engine off and moved the gauge connection to one of the intake manifold ports. After restart I noted that the vacuum is a steady 16.5 in. Hg at idle. The vacuum changes briefly to around 13 in. Hg when accelerating and to about 20 in. Hg when decelerating which seems normal. I put the transmission in reverse for a couple minutes with the brakes applied followed by drive for a couple of minutes. No DTCs were generated so I'm fairly confident my problem is due to the vehicle speed sensor. Then I ran the engine at mid-range for a minute and briefly at 5,000 rpm to make sure it was out of the limp mode.
I disconnected the gauge, plugged the ports and restarted the engine. It ran for a few seconds and then died like it was out of fuel even though the tank is more than half full. When I cycled the ignition key I did not hear the normal flow of fuel passing thru the fuel pressure regulator and returning to the tank. I checked the fuel pump fuse which was good. I cycled the ignition switch a couple times and then started the engine which only ran for a couple seconds. I need to purchase a right angle fitting for the Schrader valve on the fuel rail so I can easily read the pressure. I suspect that the fuel pump strainer is clogged restricting flow or there is a poor electrical connection to the pump in the tank. The "fun" continues.
I connected my external vacuum/boost gauge to the dipstick tube, filled the cooling system with distilled water and cleared the DTCs to get the engine out of limp mode. Then I cold started the engine and let it idle until fully warmed up while watching for leaks and monitoring the crankcase pressure. As coolant pressure built up I found and fixed three slow coolant leaks at hose connections by tightening clamps. The crankcase pressure never changed from atmospheric. I began to wonder if my gauge was working so I shut the engine off and moved the gauge connection to one of the intake manifold ports. After restart I noted that the vacuum is a steady 16.5 in. Hg at idle. The vacuum changes briefly to around 13 in. Hg when accelerating and to about 20 in. Hg when decelerating which seems normal. I put the transmission in reverse for a couple minutes with the brakes applied followed by drive for a couple of minutes. No DTCs were generated so I'm fairly confident my problem is due to the vehicle speed sensor. Then I ran the engine at mid-range for a minute and briefly at 5,000 rpm to make sure it was out of the limp mode.
I disconnected the gauge, plugged the ports and restarted the engine. It ran for a few seconds and then died like it was out of fuel even though the tank is more than half full. When I cycled the ignition key I did not hear the normal flow of fuel passing thru the fuel pressure regulator and returning to the tank. I checked the fuel pump fuse which was good. I cycled the ignition switch a couple times and then started the engine which only ran for a couple seconds. I need to purchase a right angle fitting for the Schrader valve on the fuel rail so I can easily read the pressure. I suspect that the fuel pump strainer is clogged restricting flow or there is a poor electrical connection to the pump in the tank. The "fun" continues.
2000StreetRod
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fuel pump, VSS, odometer & air bag cover
After some testing I found that the fuel pressure was low again. I determined that the series resistance was high so I pulled the pump and eliminated two of the four mechanical electrical connectors. I ran the engine with a vacuum/boost gauge connected to the engine oil dipstick. From engine cold start to fully warmed the crankcase remained at atmospheric pressure. I also checked the manifold vacuum. The vacuum is a steady 16.5 in. Hg at idle. The vacuum changes briefly to around 13 in. Hg when accelerating and to about 20 in. Hg when decelerating which seems normal.
I need some help correcting the VSS fault. I measured the sensor resistance to be 422 ohms. I read somewhere that the resistance should be from 200 to 400 ohms. Since I don't have a 1996 wiring diagram I traced the wires thru the wiring harness. I was surprised they don't go thru the 26 pin transaxle connector. Nor do they connect to either the TCM or ECM. Instead, they go to a two row connector in the TCM/ECM box that is laying under the mounted TCM and ECM connectors. From there they leave the box in a harness that is attached to the passenger side fender well and then into the firewall. My 1995 wiring diagram has a note that YEL/GRN and GRN/YEL wires go to the speedometer for 1996. The fault (P0500) appears after about one mile of driving whether the VSS is connected or not. The speedometer works but the odometer and trip odometer do not increment. I've read on the forum that the odometer frequently fails after 100,000 miles. It is a mechanical display driven by an electric motor.
I'm having trouble removing the VSS. I have the mounting stud/bolt out but can't get any leverage to pry the sensor out. I raised the vehicle and set it on jackstands. I plan to monitor the VSS output voltage with the vehicle in drive. It's probably a pulsed waveform that may register as AC voltage on a multimeter.
I decided to attempt to repair the odometer and the air bag cover on the passenger side. The leather shrinks and pulls away from the air bag in an unsightly manner. I have pulled the upper dash trim section with the air bag and have also removed the instrument cluster. I just finished disassembling the instrument cluster this evening and found a very tiny plastic gear with a missing tooth that drives the odometer display wheels. I have located a supplier that sells the gear for $25. I will search further for a source. I can't connect the battery with the air bag disconnected or a fault will be set that can only be cleared by a special OBD scan tool that the dealer or an authorized Volvo service shop has. I've also learned that the actual mileage is stored somewhere (possibly a processor in the instrument cluster) even though the odometer isn't working and can be read by a scan tool. If I get the odometer working I may have the mileage read and set the odometer display to the actual mileage. Hopefully it is not 500,000 instead of the displayed 168,000 miles.
After some testing I found that the fuel pressure was low again. I determined that the series resistance was high so I pulled the pump and eliminated two of the four mechanical electrical connectors. I ran the engine with a vacuum/boost gauge connected to the engine oil dipstick. From engine cold start to fully warmed the crankcase remained at atmospheric pressure. I also checked the manifold vacuum. The vacuum is a steady 16.5 in. Hg at idle. The vacuum changes briefly to around 13 in. Hg when accelerating and to about 20 in. Hg when decelerating which seems normal.
I need some help correcting the VSS fault. I measured the sensor resistance to be 422 ohms. I read somewhere that the resistance should be from 200 to 400 ohms. Since I don't have a 1996 wiring diagram I traced the wires thru the wiring harness. I was surprised they don't go thru the 26 pin transaxle connector. Nor do they connect to either the TCM or ECM. Instead, they go to a two row connector in the TCM/ECM box that is laying under the mounted TCM and ECM connectors. From there they leave the box in a harness that is attached to the passenger side fender well and then into the firewall. My 1995 wiring diagram has a note that YEL/GRN and GRN/YEL wires go to the speedometer for 1996. The fault (P0500) appears after about one mile of driving whether the VSS is connected or not. The speedometer works but the odometer and trip odometer do not increment. I've read on the forum that the odometer frequently fails after 100,000 miles. It is a mechanical display driven by an electric motor.
I'm having trouble removing the VSS. I have the mounting stud/bolt out but can't get any leverage to pry the sensor out. I raised the vehicle and set it on jackstands. I plan to monitor the VSS output voltage with the vehicle in drive. It's probably a pulsed waveform that may register as AC voltage on a multimeter.
I decided to attempt to repair the odometer and the air bag cover on the passenger side. The leather shrinks and pulls away from the air bag in an unsightly manner. I have pulled the upper dash trim section with the air bag and have also removed the instrument cluster. I just finished disassembling the instrument cluster this evening and found a very tiny plastic gear with a missing tooth that drives the odometer display wheels. I have located a supplier that sells the gear for $25. I will search further for a source. I can't connect the battery with the air bag disconnected or a fault will be set that can only be cleared by a special OBD scan tool that the dealer or an authorized Volvo service shop has. I've also learned that the actual mileage is stored somewhere (possibly a processor in the instrument cluster) even though the odometer isn't working and can be read by a scan tool. If I get the odometer working I may have the mileage read and set the odometer display to the actual mileage. Hopefully it is not 500,000 instead of the displayed 168,000 miles.
safn1949
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You have the patience of a saint....I would have given up and lit the car on fire long ago.Very interesting writeup,as a former dealer mechanic I'm glad I never worked on Volvo's after reading this.Great job.
sport97
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x2!
Hopefully the end is near for the repairs and you can get it on the road, sorry I can't be of any help to the issues you are having. Once again, good work
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adambant
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I had both of these issues in my 93 850. My odometer made it to 193k before it quit working and I fixed it though. $25 sounds familiar as for the replacement gear in the odometer. I think the ECM records the mileage? I havent been on the Volvo forum in years but i seem to remember there being a way to get the stored mileage "flashed" once you get into the sequence somehow. I know, I'm a big help.
:I never bothered to try and fix the passenger airbag pulling apart on mine, but I agree, it was very unsightly!
Amazing effort on this Dale!
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