Wanting to do a mild lift | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Wanting to do a mild lift

1997XLTRollover

Explorer Addict
Joined
February 28, 2007
Messages
1,321
Reaction score
7
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 AWD 5.0
I posted this in the sticky thread but it probably doesn't get much traffic, so I figured I'll post it here.

I want to do a cheap lift on my 96 v8 awd, so I'm going to do a tt but have a couple questions. First question is how do I know when to stop so I don't bind up cv's and ball joints? Also do I have to change my endlinks after doing this?

As far as the rear lift, would adding a helper leaf be a good option or is changing the shackles better? Is one option more stable than the other handling wise?
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





There is already a lot of discussion how to lift the rear. Opinions vary. I vote for rear helper shocks to preserve the leaf spring arch. Shackles will flatten them.

Here is a recent TT helper shock lift. before and after pictures are in the thread,

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=363053

If you look at the 2000 mounty link in my signature you might get some ideas also. Main thing to do is to spend some time looking at what others did, search the forum and make your own judgement call.
 















Thanks for the sarcastic answer. I actually read all that stuff already and could not find the answers I asked above. I read all 5 pages of the suspension sticky as well as searched threads. I looked for hours. I saw 2 inches for the TT is the max, but how do I know when I reach 2 inches? My truck is 18 years old and has had parts replaced. I have no idea what stock ride height is or was or if my truck is even sitting at stock height.
 






There is already a lot of discussion how to lift the rear. Opinions vary. I vote for rear helper shocks to preserve the leaf spring arch. Shackles will flatten them.

Here is a recent TT helper shock lift. before and after pictures are in the thread,

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=363053

If you look at the 2000 mounty link in my signature you might get some ideas also. Main thing to do is to spend some time looking at what others did, search the forum and make your own judgement call.

Thanks for the input. I actually already looked through the stuff in your sig in my searches haha.
 






Thanks for the sarcastic answer. I actually read all that stuff already and could not find the answers I asked above. I read all 5 pages of the suspension sticky as well as searched threads. I looked for hours. I saw 2 inches for the TT is the max, but how do I know when I reach 2 inches? My truck is 18 years old and has had parts replaced. I have no idea what stock ride height is or was or if my truck is even sitting at stock height.

Your question was how do I know when to stop, not I am unsure when 2" is because I have read all the forums but am unsure of my trucks stance. To answer the question with all the info, you can feel the cv begin to bind if you rotate them. Crank what you feel you need and jack the truck under the a-arm to barely lift the tire and rotate the tire some. It won't move much because its basically in 4wd, but enough to feel a bind. Or find a stock one and compare.
 






Your question was how do I know when to stop, not I am unsure when 2" is because I have read all the forums but am unsure of my trucks stance. To answer the question with all the info, you can feel the cv begin to bind if you rotate them. Crank what you feel you need and jack the truck under the a-arm to barely lift the tire and rotate the tire some. It won't move much because its basically in 4wd, but enough to feel a bind. Or find a stock one and compare.

How about changing endlinks? Do the front swaybar endlinks have to be changed out?
 






IMO the bushing should take the the abuse. They might wear out pre mature but look at the angle once lifted. Keep in mind the ride height angle has changed but the factory range of motion is the same so nothing will be "harmed/forced beyond limits", just might wear out faster do to being at the higher end of the limits. The sway bar hooks up mid way up the arm from what I remember (merc is beamed now) so it doesn't get the full ride height lift.

I'm going off of the ex/merc that Ive seen with around 2" of TT, body lift and 33's. My buddy did shackle and add-a-leaf with the TT plus body lift and never touched anything else. Drove it 20-25k with no problems except the ram 2500 that ran a stop sign and t-boned him.
 






IMO the bushing should take the the abuse. They might wear out pre mature but look at the angle once lifted. Keep in mind the ride height angle has changed but the factory range of motion is the same so nothing will be "harmed/forced beyond limits", just might wear out faster do to being at the higher end of the limits. The sway bar hooks up mid way up the arm from what I remember (merc is beamed now) so it doesn't get the full ride height lift.

I'm going off of the ex/merc that Ive seen with around 2" of TT, body lift and 33's. My buddy did shackle and add-a-leaf with the TT plus body lift and never touched anything else. Drove it 20-25k with no problems except the ram 2500 that ran a stop sign and t-boned him.

Well I'm buying the X Spec sway bar kit, so will be replacing my endlinks anyway. So that being said maybe I should get some that are slightly longer?

Also after doing some more reading I think I'm going to go with a 2" lift shackle in the rear and keep my springs stock if that matters. I probably won't tow with this truck much if ever since I have a pickup, and want the tilt the shackle give to keep my pinion angle correct. I'll also be able to keep the nicer ride I get running stock rear leafs.

Is there anything else I should know about doing the rear lift using lift shackles? Anything I have to do with sway bars or anything else?
 






Most rear springs are sagging, so the add-a-leaf helps bring the spring back to stock firmness/height. But the rear should be fine you you like the plush. I have no sway bars so I'm not much help with that. I have also taken my drive line shock off.
 






What is the factory quarter to ground gap supposed to be? My truck sit's at 33" in the rear and I have the torsion bars at 34" up front and the truck looks level. At max twist I can get 35" maybe 35.5" up front. So a 1-2" shackle should work great out back. But I'm wondering if maybe I should get a 1" shackle and a leaf to get the best of both worlds.
 






What is the factory quarter to ground gap supposed to be? My truck sit's at 33" in the rear and I have the torsion bars at 34" up front and the truck looks level. At max twist I can get 35" maybe 35.5" up front. So a 1-2" shackle should work great out back. But I'm wondering if maybe I should get a 1" shackle and a leaf to get the best of both worlds.

My buddy went the 1" shackle and leaf. Most trucks are off some what do to tire size, air pressure, fender shims, etc. There is a ride height measurement thread but it says the same. You could go 1" shackle then put a leaf in later if needed. Best way to measure is top of axle to frame in the rear and ground to ball joint/ground to frame at LCA mount and Subtract. This take the body and tires out of the equation.
 






You might find you need to perform the adjustment several times as the bars settle in. Each time you move the bars, it is a good idea to ramp a curb, or something similar to bounce the suspension real good.

I measure at the center of the lower control arm bolt head. Side to side mine sit at 12.5" with 31" AT tires. I could go higher but like it where it is.
 






You might find you need to perform the adjustment several times as the bars settle in. Each time you move the bars, it is a good idea to ramp a curb, or something similar to bounce the suspension real good.

I measure at the center of the lower control arm bolt head. Side to side mine sit at 12.5" with 31" AT tires. I could go higher but like it where it is.

By adjustment you mean add a second leaf or larger shackle?

Settling is no problem, I'll just jack it up and drop it haha.
 






I think he means torsion adjustment. As you crank the torsions the tires won't slide. you need to roll it around and settle it in to see where is really rides.
 






Yes, I was referring to the torsion bars.

I'd take the weight off the front to adjust higher. Then drop the jack fast. :thumbsup:

I still recommend driving it over some bumps, then recheck on a level surface.

Try to count the turns of the adjustment bolt so you can get it close on the other side.
 






Yes, I was referring to the torsion bars.

I'd take the weight off the front to adjust higher. Then drop the jack fast. :thumbsup:

I still recommend driving it over some bumps, then recheck on a level surface.

Try to count the turns of the adjustment bolt so you can get it close on the other side.

That's how I did it when I messed with them before (weight off the front tires). Only thing was when I adjusted them the same number of turns, the truck was leaning to one side. I had to back off the passenger side bar to level it out.
 






You guys that do the TT and add 2" of lift, do you need longer endlinks? If so what endlinks did you buy? This is pretty much the only missing link to what I need to get this done.
 






Back
Top