Water pump failure leads to dead engine | Page 55 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Water pump failure leads to dead engine

Should Ford cover part of all of this repair out of loyalty?

  • Yes, a water pump failure at 95k should not destroy an engine

    Votes: 155 87.6%
  • No, and please quit whining about it

    Votes: 22 12.4%

  • Total voters
    177
I used ultra black RTV (the super tacky stuff)

You need a silicone gun to use that Ford stuff which is just rebranded RTV these days
I just saw an amazon review with the Motorcraft RTV peeled off, in this case is a Loctite SI 5900. I don´t know if that is what they always use but comparing that Loctite with the Permatex Ultra Black, the Permatex resists 100 F more, so it is better. Thanks!
 



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Ultra grey. It's super strong after it's dry. A regular caulk gun would work, mine is just a fancy one.

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Grey is better
 


















Still 1 day away from the parts needed. I was looking at the diagram and the oil pump would be just a few bolts away from replacing. Anyone know how many miles or years this pump lasts. Also I see Ford is currently on the 3rd oil pump for this engine. I ignore which one I have and what are the problems related to it. Searching google didn´t yield results and the problems associated with a bad or failing oil pump I can´t relate them to my truck. So a replacement is very unlikely unless someone has some info that makes me decide otherwise. Any input would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
 






This is the only thread I found here on an oil pump failure. However, several pressure sensors were replaced.
Any further discussions on the oil pump should be placed there or in a new thread so as to keep this one on topic.

Peter
 






Its not a bad idea. I honestly wish I did mine when everything was out. My car does the 3 second rattle on cold start. I have heard its the phasers not getting oil on startup. To remedy this, I now prime the engine on first start. Starting after priming it makes no noises at all. I would definitely replace it if you can. The newer pumps have a slightly higher spring for more pressure. Fordtechmakaloko did a video on the newer pumps
 






Completely understand. You'll need at least one tty bolt for the back intake cam gear to get one of the guides out. You might need the rear exhaust cam gear bolt too, can't remember.
Job finished yesterday, for the moment all went very well. You were right, we had to take off both rear gears (intake and exhaust) and replace 2 bolts from the dealer and follow a 4 steps tightening sequence.

Parts replaced (All OEM Motorcraft)

- Water pump
- Main timing chain
-Valve cover gaskets
- Intake Gasket
- Cranckshaft to timing cover seal
- Chain tensioner
- 2 chain arms (the large ones)
- 2 Chain guides (black small ones)
- 2 Special bolts for the timing gears
- Oil pump
- Thermostat and seal
- Yellow Coolant

Only non Motorctaft:
Mobil 1 5W-20 Advanced Full Synthetic
Permatex Ultra grey Silicone


Engine runs smooth, report back after a few days or weeks. Also report costs after adding up everything.

Cheers
 






Nice good to hear it went well!
 






made a mistake this mornig / saw a reservoir a little low and i add zerex g05 on top of vc13 coolant. i add between 2-4 onz this is on a new flush
am planing doin a new flush next year but should i do it early? thanks
 






made a mistake this mornig / saw a reservoir a little low and i add zerex g05 on top of vc13 coolant. i add between 2-4 onz this is on a new flush
am planing doin a new flush next year but should i do it early? thanks
2-4 Oz? It'll probably be just fine.

Did another water pump/timing/ptu service this week btw.

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The 5th gen water pump repairs will only get more busy as these vehicles age.

Im a little surprised nobody sells a "package" kit yet with the water pump and all timing components 😂
 






The 5th gen water pump repairs will only get more busy as these vehicles age.

Im a little surprised nobody sells a "package" kit yet with the water pump and all timing components 😂
Depending on milage is how much I reccomend to replace. At 150k the only wear I usually see is chain stretch. The guides usually look near perfect still. You can do the pump and the chain without removing a single tty bolt besides the balancer. You want to do the top guides you have to unbolt the phasers
 






Depending on milage is how much I reccomend to replace. At 150k the only wear I usually see is chain stretch. The guides usually look near perfect still. You can do the pump and the chain without removing a single tty bolt besides the balancer. You want to do the top guides you have to unbolt the phasers

My timing was fine at 130k but I did it anyway when the pump went. You can definitely get away without doing it but given the amount of labor it makes sense to do it all at once.
 






My timing was fine at 130k but I did it anyway when the pump went. You can definitely get away without doing it but given the amount of labor it makes sense to do it all at once.
Can't blame you for doing it all while there, it's not the most accessible place. I figure as time goes on the plastic will get brittle and I'll probably reccomend the whole timing set as these trucks get older.
 






2017 w/89k miles. Zero chain stretch or wear on chain guides. Still replaced the timing chain since it was off but could of skipped it.

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I might have mentioned this already but a co-worker with an Explorer Sport had chain stretch at under 50k miles.
 



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I might have mentioned this already but a co-worker with an Explorer Sport had chain stretch at under 50k miles.
I really think it depends on the driver how fast they stretch. Dogged out and pure city milage will prematurely stretch the chain. Either way it's good practice to replace the chain while your there but these things are similar to the duratec 3.0 with the original timing components lasting well over 200k. I work on plenty of other model Ford timing components with issues under 100k.
 






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