What are my options?

[Blown98]

Ok, i just want to clarify some of my terms here. When i see tensioner, i think of the plastic "guides", not the actual oil driven tensioner. When i see the term "upgraded" tensioner, are we referencing the "new" longer tensioners in the 00m12 kit, or are we talking upgraded plastic guides? I admit, this is entirely caused by my own use of the term "tensioner", since i use it interchangeably. I just want to make sure that I get the most revised parts here.

Also, i happened upon this info, But if anyone is looking for just 1 socket for that bolt on the primary timing gear, it is an E18.

And my final question, is it possible to to do this without using the OTC tools? Granted, i completely understand the importance of timing. I just dont want to drop 160 plus for the kit that i only plan to use this 1 time(assuming i dont blow a head gasket).

 

[Blown98]

Also, when you are referencing this kit, 2U3Z6D256CA or this one, does that include the higher number of leaves than the original stock? Im trying to ask a question without really knowing the question, but i believe stock has 3 leaves and the "upgraded" or updated version has 8 leaves?

 

[2000StreetRod]

tensioners & guides

There are 4 tensioners in your engine:
left camshaft chain hydraulic/spring tensioner (presses on the cassette guide)
right camshaft chain hydraulic/spring tensioner (presses on the cassette guide)
primary (crankshaft to jackshaft) chain tensioner
balance shaft chain tensioner

There are 4 guides in your engine:
left casette guide assembly (traction & slack sides)
right cassette guide assembly (traction & slack sides)
primary (crankshaft to jackshaft) chain guide
balance shaft chain guide

The flimsy, small base primary chain tensioners with only three leaves should no longer be available anywhere. The greatly improved primary chain tensioner with wide base and 6 leaves are the only new ones I've seen in the past three years or so.

The cassette guides have been reinforced with metal on all sections except the right traction side. A serious error by Ford in my opinion since when it breaks the engine or transmission must be pulled to replace it.

The left improved hydraulic tensioner has a deeper cylinder for the piston and spring. I don't know if the right hydraulic tensioner has actually been improved. I used to recommend replacing the hydraulic tensioners every 75K miles because the spring weakens with age and the chains are most likely to slip when there is no or low oil pressure (engine start). But for the last year or longer members have reported that the new tensioners have less spring pressure than the ones being replaced. Another error by Ford in my opinion. That's one reason I installed a pre-oiler so my engine is no longer dependent of the spring pressure. I have oil pressure at engine start.

 

[Blown98]

ok, so, my plan of action is as follows then: Order/go to ford for this kit to resolve my front most guide/chain problem. Then buy the 00m12 recall kit.

Based on the how the front and rear cam chain guides look, do you think those need replaced? I see no issue with leaving them in(even though the right one has that broken "finger"). i just need to lock my cams down for the main timing gear replacement.

I have also been looking at head gasket replacement kits. Would run me about 150-160 for a Felpro kit and new head studs. My biggest concern, however, is this MLS gasket. Any do or dont's as far as doing that? The search function only turned up stuff for the old OHV engine, not really anything on the SOHC that i found. My biggest problem now, however, is getting my hands on an OTC kit. Maybe the dealer will let me "rent" one.

 

[2000StreetRod]

not the right part number

That primary kit has the same part number as the one I purchased and is for the 2WD engine with no balance shaft. You should purchase the 4WD kit that is compatible with the balance shaft. If you email tasca and tell them your VIN and what you need they'll give you the part number.

I've timed my engine without the timing tool kit. There are a couple of ways to get around not having the kit. I since have purchased the kit and the next time I will use it and update my helpful threads to show how to use it. I'm not real happy with the flimsy crankshaft holding tool in the kit.

I have no hands on experience with replacing the head gaskets.

If you plan to keep the vehicle for many years then it's worth the OEM timing parts and possibly the head gaskets. Most owners don't keep their used vehicles more than a few years. If that's you, then you should consider the entire timing chain kit from 4USA. I've spent more than the resell value of my Sport on just oil coolers, remote filters and the pre-oiler. I'll spend more than twice what the Sport is worth on the intercooled M90 installation. I'd rather tinker with my Sport than pay for golf clubs and green fees.

 

[Blown98]

Thanks for letting me know that was only a 2wd timing kit. And like you say, it all comes down to what i want out of this. I see no reason, at 22, for me to just spring up and buy a new(er) car. Not when these type fixes are somewhat easy. Painstaking, yes.


I think i will go with OEM parts, just because, i want this thing to last at least another 5 years. I understand that head gaskets may go before that, or, god forbid, my fuel pump goes out(most likely my next failure, as tranny was gone through and spec'd 40k ago.) And, i love a good challenge. Enough time for me to finish school, or get into a much better job. Right now though, i need to be able to get this thing to even spin while on the engine stand. What a wanker. Think my rings may have rusted to the cylinder walls.

And i must say, i envy your imagination when it comes to modifications. An m90? Thats awesome. I wonder how much rwhp you will be getting once that gets put on. I fancied turbocharging mine, but couldnt think of a cost efficient way to make a new intake manifold. And I have read through your accusump install several times, i may try that myself, seems like a very worthwhile investment considering ^^^^^^^^^ all this seems to be a recurring issue in these engines.

And where can i find a connecting rod nut? i just need 1. God it sounds horrible to even ask that. But apparently it came unthreaded from the cap i had loosened to check the bearing/crank surface. Or better yet, where can i find an exploded parts diagram of fiche? I have several online for my motorcycle but cant find a single one for this Explorer.

 

[2000StreetRod]

seized pistons

The Volvo 850 turbo wagon challenge I purchased a couple years ago had set in a field for more than a year after the owner and his mechanic gave up on it. The pistons weren't seized from the rings rusting to the cylinder walls but the compression was low enough in some cylinders I thought a head gasket was blown. I dropped a small amount of Sea Foam in each cylinder twice a day (cranking the starter briefly before each add) and after 5 or 6 days the pressure came up to normal. Yours should be fine.

I don't understand why you can't rotate your engine on the stand. Don't you have any spacers with your stand? That's probably the first problem to solve. I would also like to have a detailed parts breakdown with part numbers. I have a shop manual CD for procedures but it doesn't give part numbers. I try to maintain a current list of timing chain related part numbers: SOHC V6 Timing Chain Related PNs If you give me the P/N of the 4WD primary timing chain kit I'll add it to the post. Check with Tasca Parts for OEM P/Ns. They're fairly responsive to email or telephone questions. Include your VIN so they can be sure of what you need.

 

[Blown98]

Does $217 sound way too expensive for the timing chain, guide, both guides for the balance shaft, the bolt that holds it all together, and the balance shaft timing chain? apparently you cant buy a "kit" with all these pieces for the 4x4, you have to buy individual pieces. Either that or they are screwing me over at the dealer(most likely).

 

[2000StreetRod]

correct terminology

Does $217 sound way too expensive for the timing chain, guide, both guides for the balance shaft, the bolt that holds it all together, and the balance shaft timing chain? apparently you cant buy a "kit" with all these pieces for the 4x4, you have to buy individual pieces. Either that or they are screwing me over at the dealer(most likely).

Please use the correct terminology in your posts so I can be certain about what you're stating.

The most important item you need to replace is the primary chain tensioner which is not in your list. The balance shaft chain does not have two guides. It has a guide and a tensioner. Are you communicating with your local Ford dealer? In my experience, local dealers place little importance on parts customers, have minimal parts stock, and charge list price. They often require prepayment before ordering the parts I need so I have to go twice for an item. That's why I buy online from Tasca. I used to also buy from Tousley Ford online but they have been bought out so I dropped them. Have you asked Tasca if they have a 4wd primary timing chain kit? If not, it may be cheaper to purchase the 2wd kit and then buy the 4wd sprocket. I don't know if its a separate sprocket or part of the crankshaft sprocket. I also don't know if the crankshaft sprocket is different for 2wd vs 4wd.

 

[Blown98]

ok, i will admit i worded that horribly. here is a picture(parts circled in green are what was meant to be ordered, also included in that price of 217 would be the jackshaft bolt.).

And i will admit, it was a rather horrible dealership experience. I have been in numerous motorcycle dealers getting parts, and even the worst one in this area is still far better than the Ford dealer i went to today.

The next thing on my list(after finishing this post) is to email tasca and ask about their kits.

To answer your sprocket question, based on this pic from USAllparts.com, there are 2 sprockets(3 including the actual balance shaft's sprocket.) To the eye, the sprockets still appear to be in decent condition. Just the same as all the other sprockets in the engine. However, i also understand that parts "wear together" over their lifetime.

 

[2000StreetRod]

tty bolts

In my opinion the sprockets are the strongest component in the timing chain related items. Then chains are the next strongest. I agree with your selection of components to replace. You'll also need the harmonic balancer bolt (torque-to-yield) and the timing cover gasket. If you remove the block cradle to replace the balance shaft chain tensioner then you'll need an upper oil pan (between block and cradle) gasket. You can try bending the post first and if successful you won't have to remove/install/align the block cradle.

I was browsing thru Tasca's engine component list looking for a kit and noticed that your pistons have been discontinued. That will happen to more items now that the SOHC 4.0L V6 has been "retired". If I ever rebuild my engine and need to replace the pistons I'll probably purchase after market pistons since the stock pistons don't hold up well to forced induction.

If you PM me your email address I'll send you a copy of the engine assembly instructions. It has numerous diagrams.

 

[Blown98]

Ok, well I am at least glad i am getting somewhere and have a somewhat list of what I need to buy now.

Just so i have a list i cant lose, and for other's reference, here's what im getting:

Harmonic Balancer Bolt
Front Jackshaft Bolt
Timing Chain Cover Gasket
Upper Oil Pan Gasket
Lower Oil Pan Gasket
Valve Cover Gasket
Primary Crank to Jackshaft Drive Chain
Primary Crank to Jackshaft Tensioner(guide is still in excellent condition)
Balance Shaft Guide
Balance Shaft Tensioner
Balance Shaft Chain
Crank Position Sensor
00m12 Recall Kit(new hydraulic front tensioner included, as well as plenum/intake manifold gaskets included)
1 connecting rod nut
Plastigauge(might as well spec my clearances while its out so i know if i should buy bearings)
New oil pump(i am considering the oversized Melling oil pump, but a new one for certain)
OTC Tool Kit(will also look on here to see if i can borrow/rent from a member)

I think that should get me going. When i find out an actual part number(if i cant get just the front kit I NEED, i guess i will just spend the extra and change everything out).

I think i may have to remove the block cradle, because not only is the tensioner itself missing, but the balance shaft chain also ate into the post i believe you are referencing. See pic here. Circled in green is i believe what post you are referencing(balance shaft chain has already eaten halfway through that), and circled in red is what i am assuming is the block cradle. Is that correct?

On this page, it is still showing stock pistons, and 3 different sets of oversized pistons as still available. (Might just be they have them in inventory and others dont, who knows.) You might also want to look into shotpeening/magnafluxing or going aftermarket on your rods too, I personally dont trust stock rods to handle any type of boost for prolonged periods of time.

And i will pm you, and i also have to say, its such a shame i no longer live in Clemson. Going for a drive to Greenville to check out your explorer would have been awesome. I personally like Explorers, more than XJ's even. I just wish they didnt have such a high center of gravity.

 

[jprentice94]

You might be able to get a whole gasket kit

 

[2000StreetRod]

block cradle

The balance shaft chain tensioner pivot post is the item you circled.

The valve cover gaskets are rubber and fairly expensive. They usually are not damaged when removed. I reused mine with no problems and didn't even add RTV or something similar.

The timing cover seal is frequently replaced. I was very careful to install the timing cover and block cradle in their original positions and didn't replace the seal. I have no leaks.

The block cradle/girdle/block reinforcement/upper oil pan is not what you circled and has been removed in the photo. Here's a photo of the cradle.

It must be removed to replace the base of the balance shaft chain tensioner because the mounting bolts are vertical. The block cradle must also be removed to access the main bearing caps.

I think you mentioned that you lost the dirt plate.

It's a pain when installing the engine to the transmission but serves a purpose.

Please post or email part numbers for what you order and I'll add or update them on my posted P/N list.

I sent the assembly instructions this morning.

 

[2000StreetRod]

high volume oil pump?

Some members replace the stock oil pump with a high volume oil pump. It can compensate for increased clearance (flow) due to worn bearings. Bearing clearance flow may increase when switching to full synthetic oil which could result in lower oil pressure if the flow volume of the stock pump is exceeded. I have no data to establish an opinion and most members probably don't unless they have installed an oil pressure gauge. The main disadvantage I can think of for a high volume oil pump is a minimal increased load on the engine resulting in slightly less maximum performance and fuel economy. Also, there will be more stress on the small spiral gear that is driven by the jackshaft.

 

[Blown98]

I just want to start off and say thank you for that Assembly guide you sent me. Interesting reading to say the least. I am somewhat disheartened to learn, however, that every connecting rod cap i loosened i must now replace each one of the bolts, as they are torque to yield as well. According to this thread, i may be able to use bolts from a 302's connecting rod? Is there any truth to that?

Also, based on everything you know, how likely is it for one of the cassettes to fail at this mileage? Any way to predict that? Because if they are going to fail(or there seems to be a high likelihood of them doing so in your mind ), i would rather just buy the entire timing kit with everything in it then just have to pull this again in 6 months because a cassette failed. Once i get your reply on that, then i'll go ahead and get the parts(either the full kit or just the front pieces(even though its just a well informed opinion, it is still a WELL informed opinion.))

Also, if i were to decide to check the crank bearings and spec them with plastigauge, and i undid the main caps to do so(since you have to do that in order to get the plastigauge on them), would i need new bolts for cap reinstallation? I cant seem to find if those bolts are re-usable or not.

My final question concerning spec-ing clearances, if the part that i am trying to spec uses a torque to yield bolt, wouldn't i need to then buy another set of torque to yield bolts for actual reassembly, since i just used a set for spec-ing that particular piece and already stretched it? That's what would make sense to me. If i worded that funny, think 2 bolts for spec, 2 bolts for final assembly.

The valve cover gaskets are rubber and fairly expensive. They usually are not damaged when removed. I reused mine with no problems and didn't even add RTV or something similar.

My primary concern with my valve cover gaskets is that they feel hard, not squishy or malleable. They had started to leak at the back corners after i had switched to Valvoline Environmental Maxlife from Pennzoil High Mileage. That's the only reason i had suggested replacement.

The timing cover seal is frequently replaced. I was very careful to install the timing cover and block cradle in their original positions and didn't replace the seal. I have no leaks.

Unfortunately for myself, i destroyed both the upper oil pan gasket and the timing chain cover gasket during removal of the subsequent parts (oops). However, if you are referring to what i consider the "front main seal" that goes around the crank itself in the timing chain cover, im not sure of its condition. Although i do believe it had a slight oil leak from before the engine pull. Same as my rear main seal.

jprentice94,

You might be able to get a whole gasket kit

that might be a more cost effective option, however, right now I am looking at just actual hard parts and procedures for the moment. I want to make sure I have all that down and done long before i worry about putting it all back together.

Some members replace the stock oil pump with a high volume oil pump. It can compensate for increased clearance (flow) due to worn bearings. Bearing clearance flow may increase when switching to full synthetic oil which could result in lower oil pressure if the flow volume of the stock pump is exceeded. I have no data to establish an opinion and most members probably don't unless they have installed an oil pressure gauge. The main disadvantage I can think of for a high volume oil pump is a minimal increased load on the engine resulting in slightly less maximum performance and fuel economy. Also, there will be more stress on the small spiral gear that is driven by the jackshaft.

I was looking at an oversized(10% higher volume) oil pump from Melling on advance auto parts website, as not only trying to compensate for any wear and drop in oil pressure that may occur, but also as an easy way to make sure that parts are even getting oil. As i have no way of knowing what the actual oil pressure was before(other than the "idiot gauge" always being in the middle, never dipping at all), i want to make sure that everything is being lubricated. Since it needs to be replaced anyways(i dont trust an oil pump that has sucked metal/plastic debris through itself to work probably), i figured why not go a little oversized. My concern with what you are saying about higher wear on the drive gear worries me though. Is that part replaceable as well? I could easily live with slightly less efficiency if it means that everything is getting oiled.

And you are correct, I am missing the dirt plate. Looked for it in my parts area and it is nowhere to be found. Thankfully it's just a stamped plate of steel and relatively cheap. Will pick one up closer to install.

 

[Blown98]

Rod Bolts Found!

So after a fairly exhaustive search the past couple of days, and hundreds of threads arguing about the re-use vs change of rod bolts(across several different engines), i was finally able to locate what i believe are the correct rod bolts for the 4.0l SOHC. Only throwing out "think" because they are for a 2010 4.0l sohc mustang motor, and from what ive read, no difference at all. So:

Part number- 1L2Z-6214-AB

Once i order them and knock my old ones out, i'll make sure to measure bolt size, etc to make sure its an exact duplicate of the original 1998 Rod bolts for my engine (accounting for stretch, it shouldnt be that far off the non stretched bolts). According to this ad, fitment for the bolts goes all the way back to the 2000 Explorer SOHC engine, so im fairly confident that they are the correct ones. Tasca has them listed for about $2 a piece.

Going to get 12, and spec my crank to conrod oil clearances. If i am able to find the main cap bolts, i will take my crank out as well to spec those bearings, Just to insure that everything is still good in that area. According to the Haynes Manual in front of me, it does not say anything about replacement of those bolts. But very specifically the connecting rod bolts. My only concern is realignment of the crank in regards to the thrust bearing. Have never seen that done before.

Once i get my bottom end squared away, then i will return to the timing components. That way i can borrow a boroscope and look into the back of the block to see if that cassette is still good, and determine if an entire timing kit is necessary.

 

[Blown98]

Just wanted to give a quick update, Tasca does NOT in fact have those connecting rod bolts. You just have the ability to place an order for those parts, then be told they are no longer available. Hunting down some leads on a few more.

Once I actually start getting pieces in for this engine, I will make another thread of my "rebuild".

 

[2000StreetRod]

connecting rod bolts

I think the OHV and the SOHC 4.0L V6 use the same connecting rod bolts. Parts will continue to get harder to find.
ARP Rod Bolts

Another OEM potential source: BOLT - CONNECTING ROD (1L2Z-6214-AB)

You might also try: BOLT - CONNECTING ROD

 

[Blown98]

Update: still on the hunt for conrod bolts. Ford parts giant is a no go, and i still havent heard back from the other site(cant recall the name) about it either. even my ebay seller sounds a bit sketchy, say he can only "get" 12. That worries me because he doesnt actually have them. May just bite the bullet and pay $5 a bolt and see if i get what i need (from the ebay guy). So, the search continues.