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Hey one option for a couple inches of suspension lift is to get puck spacers for under your front coils usually can only go 1-1 1/2 inches. Then add cargo coil overload coils. That gives you more than two inches total in the front. I did this on mine pizza it was under $200 total for spacers, coils pizza a oversized add a leaf in the rear. Just one idea to avoid a total overhaul of suspension.
 






The only thing I ended up breaking was the ground strap that goes from the firewall to the back of the cylinder head. Fixed that today with a short battery cable. I have also learned today that the bumper brackets for me have not been a bolt on item. I had to ream the holes out on the front bumper brackets before they would work and tomorrow I will have to do the same with the rear. Then put the e brake cable bracket on and I will be done except for wheels and tires.
 






When your looking at suspension modifications, think of how your going to use your rig.

Spacers under the front coils can be used to get you a little lift you don't want to go nuts. 2" over stock height is pushing the limit of what you can still get aligned. By over "stock height" I mean over what the truck was when new, not where it sits with settled springs. The spacers do nothing for your total suspension flex when a "kit" with new springs usually will give you more travel.

If your thinking of go fast type wheeling you really want to look into cut/turned beams so you don't have the added stress on the frame from the drop brackets.

If you do go the drop bracket route get good ones. The Duff drop brackets are good. The ones that use a plate to drop the drivers side down are the worst to get. Those tend to poke a whole in the top of the front diff when you cycle the suspension up.

On top of the kits, there are other things you can do to your front end.. F-250 shock mounts so you can put on longer front shocks. The C-clip eliminator mod up front so you can replace a broken passenger side axle shaft easily in the field etc... There are many more things you can do up front.. I just depends on what your goal is.

Just things to think about..

~Mark
 






Finished getting the rear bumper on today. Even after reaming the holes out, the bottom of the bumper was still hitting the frame. Ended up slotting the bumper on the bottom so it would slide around the frame. Got the e brake bracket on. Fixed that problem that I had asked you about Maniak. Thank you very much. Took her for a test spin. Rides smooth. I think the body bushings helped tremendously. Steering is binding so that will be the next thing to do.
 






Here is what I did to help out my binding steering. Loosened up my steering gear, pried up on the end the steering linkage hooks to and re-tightened. It won't move a whole lot, but it seems it was just enough to eliminate some of the binding. Steering shaft with a universal would definitely take care of it. Will have to keep an eye out at pull-a-part. Also, I still have my speedo gear to change out to compensate for the bigger tires. From what I have been looking at, correct me if I am wrong, you have to go down on the tooth count to speed the speedometer up. I have a 19 tooth rh speedo gear now, I purchased a 17 tooth rh speedo gear to switch to when the tires go on. From some research it says when going from 235/75r15 to 32x11.5x15 tires when the speedo reads 60 I will actually be doing 66 to 67 mph.
 






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New wheels and tires. Still have to find centers. I noticed an issue the other day but I am not sure how big of an issue to make it. Looking at from the rear of the vehicle down the sides I noticed the driver's rear sticks out farther than the passenger's rear, as far as the tires go. Thought maybe the body had shifted, but according to my measurements of the body to the frame before I started they were correct. So I crawled underneath and measured the wheel distance from the frame and sure enough the driver's side is 1/2" farther out from the frame than the passenger's side. What to make of it....
 






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