wheel bearings under water?

[SVO42]

I know the owner's manual and my Chilton's manual state to repack the wheel bearings if the front axle has been submerged. That isn't specific enough for me. Does that mean ANYTIME it happens, or only if it's underwater for a while? The reason I ask is that I never really hear much about others doing it. I had mine underwater briefly and then I notced the hubs were getting warm after driving a bit, and my MPG went down. I had a list of things building up that needed done, and I'm short on time, so I had a shop do that and got it back today (also I hate the snap rings that seem impossible to get off :fire: ). One inner bearing had to be replaced but the other 3 were fine.

What are your experiences?

EDIT: Oops! Can a moderator please move this to the stock '91-'94 section? Thanks.

 

[skatermania88]

I wonder if I need to replace mine. My dad told me that he thinks my wheel bearings are bad. There a vibration in the front end when excelerating. But I don't think I've ever put them under water. It does seem like my mpg have gone down too, and the hubs get warm. Do you think that's what's causing the vibration?

 

[410Fortune]

the torque on the wheel bearings on the older trucks should be checked at least once a year if not re-packed or replaced (this means you mr 92, the 91-94 trucks use the D35 TTB and it is very common for the wheel bearings to have issues/fail/wear out/lose their pre-load)

Dipping them in water every once in a while will not hurt them neither will driving on wet roads, etc. As long as you check them every so often. When you run tires that are larger than stock they require service even more often.

What snap rings are you speaking of? Snap ring plyers will make shirt work of those suckers.

I run 35" tires and repack my bearings at LEAST once a year. I replace the bearings and races approx every 2-3 years or when they show signs of wear.

Yes wheel bearings can cause vibrations, and if they are the cause of your vibrations you better fix it soon or your wheel might fall off.

Hubs do get warm, but not hot. The marine grease used to pack the bearings will resist water a great deal. The hub has a o ring on it that will also help keep dirt and moisture out.

 

[skatermania88]

the torque on the wheel bearings on the older trucks should be checked at least once a year if not re-packed or replaced (this means you mr 92, the 91-94 trucks use the D35 TTB and it is very common for the wheel bearings to have issues/fail/wear out/lose their pre-load)


Yes wheel bearings can cause vibrations, and if they are the cause of your vibrations you better fix it soon or your wheel might fall off.

Well I guesss it would be in my best interest to look in to that ASAP...
Thanks

 

[SVO42]

410, I have some snapring pliers and I still wound up with a nice gouge in the palm of my left hand and a snap ring that didn't budge. It's the one on the outside of the spindle that you have to take off before you can get to the lock ring that needs the special socket to take off.

skater, another thing that could be causing the wobble is a warped brake rotor or bad alignment.

So, is there any way to know if the bearings need a repacking after being underwater WITHOUT having to inspect them? How hot is too hot for a hub?

 

[F14CRAZY]

I'd say if you can't comfortably hold your hand on it, it's too hot. After freeway driving like 20 miles my hubs (automatic) get warm but not hot enough to hurt (valvoline synthetic grease done about a year ago)

 

[F14CRAZY]

If you end up taking them all apart and repacking, I'd replace the seals too so you wont have to worry about them

 

[Josh]

While driving your hubs are gonna get warm because they are most likely picking up heat from your rotors. I just did mine a couple of days ago and yes the drivers side lost preload and my wheel was a couple of days from falling off. The jam nut had already backed all the way off. I wish warn would have used that same key that the ford spindle nut uses. I dont think this would be a problem. Warn does offer a new spindle nut kit that has set screws in the jam nut now. I torqued the jam nut to 150Ft lbs.

 

[410Fortune]

Josh, Warn has not made that spindle nut kit for about 10 years now

 

[Josh]

You can still buy them right?I have the old style(- the set screws). I did the conversion about 3 years ago. I guess I read an old article that had talked about the updated nut kit that had the set screws in the jam nut.

 

[410Fortune]

No you cannot. If you find a set for sale let me know!

I have seen one set, my buddy Brett parted out a lifted ranger and mr lucky just happened to get a D35 TTB in the deal that had the Warn set screw type lock rings. He has them on his lifted sport and has not touched his wheel bearings in 30K miles

A machine shop could duplicate them fairly easy.

HOWEVER if your lock rings and spindles are in good shape, there is no need for this kit. My spindle nuts do not back out, only 1 time. I attribute this to using new lock ring washers f the tabs get worn, you can get them at most auto parts stores for cheap, just ask for dana 44 lock ring washers.

Also welding a bit of material on the locking tab (square tab that rides in groove on spindle) and then filig it down for an absolute snug fit, will not allow any movement.

 

[Josh]

Huh. When you say you can't buy them you are refering to the ones with the set screws right? Why not take the jam nut put it on the drill press and just drill out the whole. I would think it would only take one. Hell I'm thinking about doing it. I was also thinking to go back to the old Ford nut and just using that. I also put locktite on the spindle before I covered everything in greese, but I don't think the threads were clean enough for that stuff to take hold.

 

[410Fortune]

Locktite? NO!!!!

Yes I am talking about theones with the set screws, Wanr has not made them for a long long time.

You could easily machine your own, I personally do not see the need.


What is different about the Ford spindle nuts and lock ring from the ones you got with your Warn hubs? They should be identical, unless you are talking about the cam assembly for the auto hubs...

 

[big_hoovie]

You know, I found the best way to remove that snapring was either with a set of needle nose pliers, or a couple of screwdrivers - one pushing on each side of the ring. No fuss, no muss

410, I have some snapring pliers and I still wound up with a nice gouge in the palm of my left hand and a snap ring that didn't budge. It's the one on the outside of the spindle that you have to take off before you can get to the lock ring that needs the special socket to take off.

skater, another thing that could be causing the wobble is a warped brake rotor or bad alignment.

So, is there any way to know if the bearings need a repacking after being underwater WITHOUT having to inspect them? How hot is too hot for a hub?

 

[410Fortune]

yeah the C clip is a snap to get off. I use two small flatheads, most times you can even get away with a quick smack on just one side.
Careful it likes to fly 27' away and hide.

 

[Josh]

One quick pop on one side of the snap ring and mine comes up high enough to get a screw driver underneith and just lift out.

410,
The OEM spindle nut uses a small key that slips in the groove on the spindle. There are grooves in the nut threads as well. You tighhten the nut, line up the crooves on the nut with the groove on the spindle and slide the key in. There is a guy using the stock spindle nut with the warn hubs. Pic below of the stock one. I think its a better design. And why not locktite?

 

[410Fortune]

from the autohubs, yes I understand.

Locktite is not needed on the trheads when the 3 pieces are setup properly.

I have it down to a science Weld up the tabs on teh lock ring and you will be golden, even with 35's.

 

[SVO42]

Either I'm cursed or inept, because I was starting to think about dynamite to get those snap rings off. Would having factory manual hubs make any differences on what style of snap ring was used? My X has the factory manual shift T-case and Ford manual hubs.

 

[410Fortune]

NO.

You are talking about the C shaped ring onthe end of the axle shaft stub where it sticks out through the spindle correct? You remove this and then it allows you rto remove the splined washer behind it, this is the safety system that is supossed to keep your wheel from falling off and also the xle shaft from pulling through the spindle.

The C clip is EASY to remove. YOu need to GENTLY pry on both sides with small flathead scredrivers. Then once it comes up enough you can put one screwdriver under it and pull it off. Careful, as I said they like to go flying.

I cannot see how this could be challenging unless they are fused on there from heat or something
maybe clean up all the grease first so you can see what you are dealing with?

 

[SVO42]

That's the part, 410. I DID clean all the grease off. They did act like they were fused on there. I tried snap ring pliers (see above), and a screwdriver. I did not try two simultaneous screwdrivers, however. I'll keep that in mind the next time it comes up--thanks. I did try with one screwdriver and a hammer on one end of the clip and it didn't budge. The pliers didn't work too well since the ends of the "ring" had about 1/2" between the ends and I couldn't get very good leverage on them.