Wheel Hub

[Stephenms]

I've been noticing wheel bearing noise coming from the front right. No pulsing or shaking, yet, just a slight grinding noise. It's difficult to describe but I know a wheel bearing when I hear it lol.

My question is, I've done some research online and heard good things about MOOG, SKF, and Motorcraft Hub assemblies. I plan on replacing both sides while I'm at it. What's the best manufacturer for my buck? Quality and price wise. If it's SKF or Motorcraft I'll purchase them on RockAuto, SKF:$140, MoCo:$166. MOOG I can get at work for 108 a piece. I use MOOG and only MOOG on my 87 corvette and I have never had an issue.

Luckily this was not and never will be a nothern car. Lived in Florida all its life, in the garage too, so swapping them out should be a breeze.

I double checked the applications for 4WD and RWD, but my source is not all that descriptive. I'm 99% sure the 4WD and RWD use the same front wheel bearing but I'd like to confirm that?

 

[MunkeyTX]

Why not go with the manufacturer that is universally synonymous with wheel bearings...Timken?

I just ordered two units for my Explorer yesterday: Timken SP470200.

 

[Stephenms]

I've heard good things about Timken but not on these explorers. It's not that I heard bad things, just couldn't find info. Have you had good warranty with Rockauto? I've never had to send something back to them for a warranty. Do they expect the old part first then they'll send the new? Will my car haveto be out of commission for a week and a half to get a warrantied part? The Timken is the same price as the MOOG I can get in town at work in case there is ever an issue with defectiveness.

 

[dla]

I believe Timken is actually built with SKF bearings as Timken doesn't manufacture ball bearings. My point is that Timken and SKF are identical. I personally don't trust MOOG - I've had a problem with the quality of their ball joints and I don't want to find out if their quality problems extend elsewhere.

 

[MunkeyTX]

Have you had good warranty with Rockauto? I've never had to send something back to them for a warranty. Do they expect the old part first then they'll send the new? Will my car haveto be out of commission for a week and a half to get a warrantied part?

I've had one warranty experience with RockAuto. I ordered a set of ball joints for my '98 4Runner, and they sat in the box for over six months before I could get around to installing them (backup/beach vehicle). While inspecting the parts before the install, I noticed one of the BJ boots had a small nick/rip. I thought I was SOL since RA's return period for defective parts was only 90-days (don't quote me on the exact timeframe, but what I remember is that it had expired). I e-mailed RA's Customer Service with pictures of the ball joint, and they immediately authorized a return and cross-shipped me a new part (as soon as the tracking receipt for the part I was returning registered in the UPS/FedEx/USPS system, they sent the new part). Completely painless experience.

 

[Tech By Trade]

Got one better for ya. I had to do the cassettes and chains on my 07. I got the kit and it was missing one of the gaskets for the tensioners. They told me just to go get one from my local stealership. I did and scanned them a copy of the receipt and they sent me a refund for the difference. Little bit of leg work but considering I'm in Canada they did impress me.

 

[lincolnshibuya]

I've heard good things about Timken but not on these explorers. It's not that I heard bad things, just couldn't find info. Have you had good warranty with Rockauto? I've never had to send something back to them for a warranty. Do they expect the old part first then they'll send the new?

I stop using RockAuto because I have to ship the defective part first before they send me another one. It's for the rear blend door actuator, I don't want pieces of trim lying around for more than week just to wait for the part (it has lifetime warranty)

I normally used non-Moog/Timken/SKF for the wheel bearings (settle for cheap chinese) The front hubs are easy to replace and it doesn't bother me to replace it if it fails often (luckily the GMB ones are still OK for years) I recently replaced the rear with National (Korean), the cheap chinese held for 4+ years and it started to wobble and make noise. The Motorcraft one on my rear passenger side is still original for almost 100k (go figure)

 

[Stephenms]

Awesome! That's excellent information everyone, I appreciate it. So basically SKF/Timken are identical. With that being said, is the quality good? I don't want to be replacing them constantly.

I'm glad RockAuto makes it painless (most of the time) that certainly puts my mind at ease about buying from a wholesale online company.

 

[Number4]

Motorcraft failed as early as 40k miles. So unless they've updated the design....
SKF is a premium unit.

Moog, Timkin and any other "white box" brand will most likely be the same quality.

 

[Tech By Trade]

Make sure that you use the proper torque on the End nut on the CV shaft. If you do that you should be fine. Biggest cause of premature failure is these is over or under tightening the nut and damaging the bearing before you even drive it.

 

[Stephenms]

Sorry! I don't remember if I specified that I have the RWD Explorer. Both front hub assemblies should be the same though. I'm a sucker for torque specs.

 

[lincolnshibuya]

I don't think they have preload on them, the rear bearings don't touch the nut at all because of the hub. Overtightening it will just compress the hub on both ends (if you can)
The front doesn't even have axle to put the nut into since it's a RWD, does it mean it will fall off?

 

[Stephenms]

If I understand correctly you're asking if the HUB will fall off since there is no axle/nut? The bearing assembly itself is held by three bolts. If torqued properly it's not going anywhere.

 

[lincolnshibuya]

i was referring to the preload on the bearing via the axle nut which doesn't exist.

 

[Tech By Trade]

Nope, your fine. Didn't realize it was a rwd.

 

[Hugh Janus]

Okay cool, that's what I thought.

I've been trying to hunt down an oil leak the past week and can't seem to find where it's coming from. I cleaned the entire bottom the the oil pan, starter, little bit on the transmission housing(bottom). I have replaced the valve covers and intake gaskets and torqued properly but the oil residue came back. It's not a terrible drip but I know it's there and that bothers me lol. It seems to be on the pass anger side and finds its way to the driver side. It's higher than the oil pan and the second lower oil housing. A lot of residue resides around the oil adapter and above. Before I replaced the valve covers it was leaking really bad. Both covers had ripped and broken gaskets so it was leaking like a siv. Could this be old residue from how bad the valve covers were leaking and now it's running off what's left. I live in Florida so it rains at least every other day, it could be pulling the old oil down. The valve covers show no signs of leaking. I'm due for an oil change within 500 miles so I'm thinking of cleaning the upper part of the engine (what I can reach) and adding a dye to the oil. Maybe that'll help trace it down. How often do these lower intakes leak? Possibly the oil filter adapter?

No, that's a different thread.

 

[imp]

I believe Timken is actually built with SKF bearings as Timken doesn't manufacture ball bearings. My point is that Timken and SKF are identical. I personally don't trust MOOG - I've had a problem with the quality of their ball joints and I don't want to find out if their quality problems extend elsewhere.

@dla

Checking many offerings, I found both ball bearing and tapered roller bearing units offered. I greatly prefer roller bearings. Unfortunately, not all descriptions call out the bearing type, or show a cutaway view. imp