Never Done, Build Thread for Kenne Bell Supercharged 5.0 Explorer with Ranger Edge Front Clip

[Blk2kXLT]

Let me see if I ever snapped a picture. I litterally took one of those silver bubble cold food bags (Amazon fresh or like primenow) and put it on. I cut a hole in the sealed side/bottom that was the size of the intake tube and then aimed the large opening to the fender. I think there was some good adesive still on the end which I pressed on the metal. It never collapsed or caused any intake issues.

They are huge btw. Edit to add picture above. Held the MAC intake cone filter just fine and solved it from injesting only super hot engine byproduct air.

 

[CDW6212R]

I would say that kind of material is ideal for layering on a box you make to hold the air filter. That insulation is important to stop the heat from reaching the air cleaner and the air filter.

 

[joney]

I would say that kind of material is ideal for layering on a box you make to hold the air filter. That insulation is important to stop the heat from reaching the air cleaner and the air filter.

A couple of the pics remind me so much of a gallon thermos jug! I wonder if one could use a similar approach, make the inner wall of a double walled cylinder cooler in the same way.

 

[Blown]

Now you guys ae getting creative. I looked at my 1 and 2 gallon igloo water coolers. One was too short the other too big all around and I wasn't sure the plastic would hold-up to the heat under the hood.

I believe I have some of that silver bubble insulation I will wrap it with.

My bigger concern currently is making sure nothing is getting past the fender from the tire into the filter. I got some spray foam and caulking to do that. The inner fenders do not fit as tight, they do not as well with the Ranger fenders.

Thanks for playing truck with me!

 

[joney]

Now you guys ae getting creative. I looked at my 1 and 2 gallon igloo water coolers. One was too short the other too big all around and I wasn't sure the plastic would hold-up to the heat under the hood.

I believe I have some of that silver bubble insulation I will wrap it with.

My bigger concern currently is making sure nothing is getting past the fender from the tire into the filter. I got some spray foam and caulking to do that. The inner fenders do not fit as tight, they do not as well with the Ranger fenders.

Thanks for playing truck with me!

Actually I was thinking of the old METAL ones. But I haven't seen the large ones in years. Constructed like my current Aladdin and Thermos ones, all steel.

 

[Blown]

Oh man, how old are you? Just kidding. The insulation factor would be great! Maybe run 3 smaller filters...............

I think the best result, coolest air charge, one could get would be by damming-off the area the filter housing sits in from the engine heat and insulating the filter housing, plus some heat shielding and/or insulation of the throttle body and intake plumbing. This engine bay is tight and the header/EGR is below the throttle body in this case.

Now even before my mods I had an insulated box that was pulling from the front behind the headlight and I isolated that area from the radiator heat. So I will likely get around to some heat shielding/insulation of the throttle body/intake plumbing but it has been keeping good IAT's, well accept for hot, hot summer days.

I cut an 7" hole in the inside fender. I sealed the fender off from the engine bay. I used aluminum tape, caulking and spray foam in the engine bay and inside the fender. I used a length of garage door bottom weather seal with caulking under the fender to keep the tire gunk/dust, and water out.

I found a large plastic jug the same diameter as the housing to extend through the fender. It's flimsy plastic and may melt or at least get distorted by the heat. I'll be working on a permanent bit of plumbin' for it. It may last if I get it wrapped with insulation this week.

It is cold and snowy here, roads are wet so I get to go out and test. I'll post some pics up when I take it apart to check the filter after a short run.

 

[donalds]

Post a picture of the finished product if you could

 

[joney]

Oh man, how old are you? Just kidding.

I think the best result, coolest air charge, one could get would be by damming-off the area the filter housing sits in from the engine heat and insulating the filter housing, plus some heat shielding and/or insulation of the throttle body and intake plumbing.

I cut an 7" hole in the inside fender. I sealed the fender off from the engine bay. I used aluminum tape, caulking and spray foam inside the fender and a length of garage door bottom weather seal with caulking under the fender to keep the tire gunk and water out.

I found a large plastic jug the same diameter as the housing to extend through the fender. It's flimsy plastic and may melt or at least get distorted by the heat. I'll be working on a permanent bit of plumbin' for it. It may last if I get it wrapped with insulation this week.

It is cold and snowy here, roads are wet so I get to go out and test. I'll post some pics up when I take it apart to check the filter after a short run.

Class of '76! That old, LOL. Guess they are making similar now: Galvanized Water Jug | Etsy Really like seeing projects like this where thinking is 'outside the box'!

 

[Blown]

Joney = The Bicentennial! Sorry about that. The youngin's probably think of bisexuality, not the awesome celebration we had in 76 for the countries 200th birthday. I'm pretty sure it was OK to be patriotic then.

OK, The filter looked clean as did the housing and inside the fender after getting a quick run in yesterday. It is working but the housing needs paint and some insulation wrap.

I am getting 8.5lbs of boost at 5,400' around Denver metro. I am detuning today for a trip to the desert and 3,000 feet in elevation this weekend. I am going to a smaller pulley so it does not overheat as it will push 10lbs of boost constantly while climbing back up the hills, coming home in 80 degree plus temps! It will also improve fuel mileage as it won't be in boosted fuel as much.

I also get to mount roof racks and cargo carrier today, spring is in the air and camping trips begin! I may get to some final work on the intake housing stuff.

 

[Blown]

IAT readings are very much effected by where the sensor is located. The stock sensor, in the case of this 2000, is located in the MAF housing. Reading IAT at the MAF does not make sense with this build as it is before the supercharger and the heat produced by compressing the air charge. To be able to tune for increased IAT, the sensor needs to be downstream of the blower. I went with a 1994 F150/Bronco sensor which screwed into the matching F150/Bronco lower manifold I used. Once the engine is warmed-up, this IAT sensor will only see higher temps in the location it is in as it gets heat soaked by the engine. That is OK because the IAT is being used to tune-in less timing and add fuel under high IAT. It currently has a 180 degree thermostat installed and that is what the IAT reads close to until into boost.

An estimate of increasing temps from supercharging is 10 degrees rise per pound of boost. 8.5lbs boost = 85 degrees. IAT's above 240 are no good and would lead to pre detonation. An under hood air filter sucking 200 degree air could quickly jump above 240 at 8.5lbs of boost!!!!!!! My experience tells me with this type of blower, no heat exchanger, going over 9lbs is looking for trouble and at 10lbs I found I could only run in cool ambient temps.

Here is a graph of IAT/Air Charge Temp(ACT) from a run yesterday at 8.5lbs of boost with an ambient temp of 55 degrees. You can see a rise of 50 degrees when it's in boost for a while:

As you can see, It is getting up to 220 pretty easily on a cool day. I detuned recently for a trip to the desert. I went from a 3 3/8" pulley making 8.5lbs at 5,500' elevation to a 3 11/16" pulley making 7lbs down in the desert at 3,500'. I detuned for the warmer temps and increase in boost at the lower altitude of the desert..................I'll need to switch pulleys for the summer heat soon. I will be data logging IAT's as I get back to completing the cool air intake filter housing.

I taped-up/sealed the fender with aluminum tape, sealed the housing with caulking, and added a plastic extension from the filter housing to the fender hole:

I get some time to paint and insulate it today and will get more pics.

 

[Blown]

In my quest for ever more betterness and keeping with cheap material, I found a plastic sheet rock mud bucket of correct diameter and of thicker plastic. It seals better at the metal housing & inner fender plus it reaches through further into the fender to help draw cool air. I had to do a bit of fitting/grinding on the fender and 6lbs propane jug/metal intake housing to get good fitment...........Now it plugs together.

 

[Blown]

Kenne Bell's Historical release of BLOWZILLA!

As installed on a 93 Cobra:

 

[Blown]

13lbs of boost for about 400 horses and 500ftlbs of torque!

All I need is a tune, smaller pulley and some Meth injection, MUHUHAHAHAHA!

I'd probably break something on the old girl at 13lbs of boost, but I am going to order a 3 1/8" pulley for 10lbs. I want to slap it on for fun once in a while. It would produce 12.2lbs of boost at sea level. The used kit I bought came with a 2 3/4" which I sold.

 

[CDW6212R]

You could hunt a used 302 HO engine for a low cost upgrade, for the forged pistons. I have my low mileage 92 Lincoln that I plan to use for a short time in mine after I swap it out. Any Mark VII will have the strong forged pistons, and those being automatic will be in great shape for most mileage you will find.

 

[Blown]

I got back around to the cool air intake............................I insulated the filter canister, MAF, hose, and elbow. I placed a heat shield under some additional intake tubing and the T-Body to shield the major heat radiating off the header. I may wrap those in the future when disassembled.

I pulled the coolant overflow/window washing tanks and AC unit as I had to replace a leaking AC Evaporator Core. I used aluminum tape over a bunch of holes and I caulked along the joint in the plastic and metal fender. I am going to jack it up and remove the wheel on that side, because I found a gap at the front of the inner metal fender I want to seal from the engine. I am going to take some pics of that work.

Here's what I did:

Checking fitment, don't run a filter open to engine heat.

Filter canister wrapped:

Heat shielding under T-Body, EGR block and intake tube:

 

[donalds]

That will do it

 

[Blown]

It should help, it all adds up to cooler intake air. Going into August, ugggg Hot!

I like the idea of, well eventually and on disassembly, completely wrapping the elbow on the back of the blower and work my way forward to the T Body.

In the pic below: I circled in Yellow a small section of the joint of the inner metal and plastic fender that I caulked/sealed-up. That joint and a few holes are covered by the coolant & washer tanks. I want to seal/wall-off below the jagged red line as I am pretty sure it has an opening between that inner metal fender and plastic fender that allows hot engine air through. The blue are holes I left open as I think walling-off the red takes care of those. It may be as simple as stuffing some foam in there.

 

[CDW6212R]

All good ideas, how warm do the metal inner fender surfaces get after driving a good while? That could tell whether the filter needs to be inside a complete sealed housing(air cleaner), or just walled off from the bay.

 

[donalds]

All good ideas, how warm do the metal inner fender surfaces get after driving a good while? That could tell whether the filter needs to be inside a complete sealed housing(air cleaner), or just walled off from the bay.

I've been building a air box
For me the temps were same as outside

 

[Blown]

Regarding the lower hole, No need to remove the wheel. I tried first to reach through the hole I cut and was able to reach the front of the fender. It is sealed up high, but like I thought, there is a low opening, under the filter box bracket/front of the inner metal fender and the engine bay. I don't want any hot engine air being pulled into the fender so I stuffed some scrap foam I had in there to seal it.

Now it should be pulling from the vent I placed on the fender and there is all kinds of opening at the back of the fender where it meets the door and away from engine heat. I may reach back in the fender with some spray foam or a hand full of caulking to seal it better and kind of glue it all together and make it stay. I should have poked my camera in there and taken a shot, but It's getting hot out there for me. I'll get back to it.

I am sure that sitting at idle in the sun, the fender heats some as well as a slight amount of heating from the engine bay. I believe pulling from the fender to be better than pulling anywhere near the hot radiator and near lights, bumper, etc all which also have the same heating from the sun and engine bay.

Here are pics:

Here is an after shot, a better pic as you can see the hole I covered with foam:

This pic is taken under the front fender, after shoving foam down in the hole, you can see foam now covering the inner hole is also visable and sealing holes at the very front outer corner of the inner plastic fender:

I am going to get back to it early with some black caulking to fill in the gaps in the foam and make it stick.

I should get some very hot summer days soon to datalog and see it help.