Yes!! Soon to tune!!!! | Page 8 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Yes!! Soon to tune!!!!

Teaser pics of the new toys I have been getting from James

www.hensonperformance.com


Lightning maf--and wideband commander--yeah baby!

Look at the diameter of the front and rear of maf housing.

now that is sure to suck, in a good way!!
 

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  • maf rear diemeter.jpg
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Drove with Jon's wideband the last three days to ensure that it was operating properly. Everything is a go. Will ship today. Jon be looking for a tracking#....-j
 






i dont think the AWD is that weak. If I floor it I can barely chirp the front tires when it unloads. Its pretty sure footed, not oversteering like it should with RWD. It just gets a little hairy if you lose traction especially when its damp at higher speeds, 40mph up and the thing starts darting sideways about 5-15feet at a time at a very fast rate :D. Almost feels like a pinball....sooo um just dont floor it when wet?
 






Drove with Jon's wideband the last three days to ensure that it was operating properly. Everything is a go. Will ship today. Jon be looking for a tracking#....-j

:cool:

I'm ready for some more power:D
 






More power. Man im going to have to get a 521 to keep up with you hahaha :)
 












More tuning, and how much have you guys tweaked the trans? Where are you shifting, and how does it like that?
 






90% of what we have done has been driveability tuning due to the wideband taking a dump. We cannot adjust shift points till the wot tuning is complete. Fortunately for Jon the hard part is over the driveability is the 10% tuning which takes 90% of the time. One thing to note, is that it I were with the vehicle I could've nailed this tune in a few hours. Being remote I have taken the extra precautions to keep everything inside the engine which belongs in there. -j
 






I gotcha, I know the magic is in the details. I was hoping to do my 5R55E rework today with nice weather. That changes fast around here of course.
 






I hope you all know this is just Jon's "get off my ass and do something" thread.
I move slow. James has been a great motivator.

Anyway-My new wideband has just arrived!:bounce:

The box is opened. I had to make a phone call to discuss a much needed vacation and the guy kept me on the phone for hours, rambling on and on aboutNavajo' ****** blown away by turban's?:confused:

By the time it was all over it started making sense, so I said-"Hey I'm going to go get this wideband on here, you go ahead and book that canoe!"

Just then the temperature dropped from about 40 degrees-straight down to snowing.

I have a fire lit in the stove, hopefully it will be warm out there by the time you motivate me to go install this thing.
OK
topic for discussion-

How would you route your wideband sensor cable?

I had used the transmission tunnel access panel-but this involves removing the console-4406 shifter ring and access panel.
I don't think the wideband install is intended to be permanent. Once the tuning is finished for this set up I remove it anyway

The connectors are too large to even think about going through the firewall

I'm using the downstream o2 sensor hole for bank 1-right down through the console access panel.

I think I will just go out the door and around the running board since it's coming back out anyway-

Thoughts?
 












I hope your done by now, that thing should be installed, and you should have sent James some more data by now.:D And yeah I think you should make the wideband easily removable so I can make use of it if I want to get a real tune:D

Jon's wideband = our local wideband? :D
 






Jon - I used the panel you’re talking about. I drilled a 1" hole and used a rubber grommet connection that fit the 1" drilled hole perfect, and the cables snugly. I set mine up for a "permanent" install with the autolight gauge. Everything is working well now. I had to recalibrate it a few times because I wasn’t waiting the 30 seconds after the first O2 calibration (When you power it back down)


I also routed the spliced USB cable to the center console so I just open the lid and pull the cable out to hook to the laptop. The Wideband control box is located under the console (Not under the truck).
 






Well jakee, yours seems to be the best idea-

I just spent about 1 hour trying to avoid removing my console-again-

A few days ago I was looking at 2 styles of sensor bung plugs and decided to install the cool looking allen headed one, instead of the one with a bolt head:rolleyes:

for crying outside I cannot get anything on it from this angle-I have to remove the console to get to it.
On the v8 exhaust the bank 1 rear sensor is right there-
I think I'll use Jakees method, I have grommets. Hopefully removal won't require console removal.

I guess this is a good time for a center console removal write up.
 






I'm sure you've realized you'll have to splice the grommet on one side. You'll never fit that sensor thru the id; I actually tried to.:eek:

The location of my bung is right at the Y so the sensor cable was long enough. When I get the turbo done, I'll have to move the bung back behind the turbo or I'll probably fry the sensor.

Jon - I also have some settings to give you for the autometer/LC1 combo if you decide to keep it. I played with it enough to "sneak" in on the range.
 






PS - The console takes 5 minutes to get out so GET-R-DONE!!!!!
 






PS - The console takes 5 minutes to get out so GET-R-DONE!!!!!

Back at it in a bit-
I had to run for pizza. It's my night to cook.

Since the garage is finally warmed I'll finish it up tonite.

I do have the console pulled-and I took pictures while I did it.:thumbsup:
 






Ok
I cut a 1 1/8" hole in the access plate. This allowed the sensor to slide through
I found a grommet in my extra parts collection which fit well, so I sliced it to the center and snapped it into the hole around the cable.
I then routed the cable end out to the passenger side of the console area, and re installed the console. It's all hooked up and ready to use.
 






Jon - I used the panel you’re talking about. I drilled a 1" hole and used a rubber grommet connection that fit the 1" drilled hole perfect, and the cables snugly. I set mine up for a "permanent" install with the autolight gauge. Everything is working well now. I had to recalibrate it a few times because I wasn’t waiting the 30 seconds after the first O2 calibration (When you power it back down)


I also routed the spliced USB cable to the center console so I just open the lid and pull the cable out to hook to the laptop. The Wideband control box is located under the console (Not under the truck).


Mine is ran from the tailpipe through a hole under the stock subwoofer box; it then follows under the edge of the carpet, then under the passenger seat, through the back of the console up to my gauge pod. Needless to say, mine isn't coming out any time soon.
 



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what ill effects can occur if you had to lengthen the O2 sensor wires?
 






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