Solved Your Stock Auto/Manual hub info - Ranger / 91-94 X

[swooper]

swooper ,

Auto hub replacement is pretty much a no-brainer once you get your wheels off. Your auto-hub will slide right off. Then pop off the retainer ring. The cam assy slides right off along with several metal & plastic washers. Install the new parts in reverse.
((This is the extent of your auto-hub replacement))

After that, all that is left on your spindle is the small key, the spindle nut and all of the other stuff not associated with your auto-hub R&R.
((This is the perfect time to also inspect, grease, adjust or replace your wheel bearings too.))

Check out the exploded views in post #1.

If you have a jack, stand, flat screwdriver and tire iron you can do the R&R. No special tools needed and no technical knowledge needed for auto-hub R&R.
* Your auto hubs should have nothing more than a light coating of ATF fluid on them... no grease whatsoever.

EDIT :: Here are some links.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=218254
http://explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122696

Skydiver,

Thanks for the explanation and links. They were very helpful. I repacked the bearings last year, so this should be an easy job...just wasn't sure if there was more to it than what you described.

 

[swooper]

Thanks to everyone's help, I replaced the auto hub on my drivers side without any problems. Took the car for a test drive any everything seemed fine, but now the ratcheting noise and clunk from what sounds like the drivers side is back. Is it possible that I need to replace the passenger side hub or could this be something else.

Before I replaced the hub, when I've heard the ratcheting noise and engaged the 4wd, the sound goes away.

Thanks

 

[Tbars4]

...You could either start your own thread or ask that question in one of the threads found at the bottom of the first post...They deal with problems with auto hubs..

 

[swooper]

...You could either start your own thread or ask that question in one of the threads found at the bottom of the first post...They deal with problems with auto hubs..

Thanks for the suggestion. For anyone who is interested, I started a new thread here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2317122#post2317122

 

[BRUTE448]

4x4 FIXXED!!

took a mallet to transfer case and t-case motor then hit reset on on box inside left kick panel and BAMM i had my 4x back!!:exp:

 

[Tbars4]

...I'm not sure what that has to do with stock auto or manual hubs...

 

[cybergasm]

That's the BFH mod if it does not work then beat it into Submission

or someone had no clue where to post it :scratch:

 

[DeRocha]

...I'm not sure what that has to do with stock auto or manual hubs...

He probably had another window open and thought he was replying in another thread.. I've definitely done that a boat load of times..

 

[swooper]

took a mallet to transfer case and t-case motor then hit reset on on box inside left kick panel and BAMM i had my 4x back!!:exp:

I had a problem with my transfer case motor previously and replaced the bushing thanks to this site. Fixed the blinking light on the dash.

 

[red.EDDIE.4x4]

i am installing manual hubs on my 93 X and i need to know how many ft lbs to tighten the first nut with the 4 notches in it. i looked at a break thread here and it said to tighten to 20 ft lbs then back off and go to 20 inch lbs??...is that correct? how many ft lbs do i go?
thanks

 

[Tbars4]

...Read post #72 of the following thread..
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=199915&page=4

 

[Rhett]

Questions here.

1. Why does Randy's Ring and Pinion call our Dana 35 front, the "AMC Model 35"? I have never heard it called that ever anywhere. To me AMC made the Gremlin...

2. Read the threads, but still don't understand. WRN 29071 and WRN 37780 are the same? Or is 37780 the higher-line hub?


3. Conversion kit, WRN32720, is shown as OUT-OF-STOCK at Randy's. Is the 32720 still made? (they do show an alternate, Yukon part no. YP W32720)

 

[Tbars4]

1) can you post a link to that info?

2) WRN 29071 is the stock replacement part.
WRN 37780 is a stronger hub that fits but it will show for a jeep Dana 35

3) Other places carry them such as 4wheelparts.com for about $87..You might have to ask Randy about his info...

BTW, you can get the Spicer kit pn# 28068X for $10 a side...Most all this is included in the first post except Randy's sites questions..

 

[Rhett]

1) can you post a link to that info?

Sure...

http://www.ringpinion.com/DiffList.aspx?SearchMode=Make&MakeID=2&ModelID=250&Side=Front

Never seen the D35 called that.

..Most all this is included in the first post except Randy's sites questions..

In Post#1 the WRN 37780's are listed underneath the auto hubs pics, which made me think they were auto hubs. Then I saw Jamie's (410's) post about how the 37780's were stronger hubs, and i thought "Wait, he doesn't run auto's with his 35's, what is going on here..."

Anyways, I'm kinda dense sometimes especially after work, good job on the thread, lots of good info in its totality.

 

[Tbars4]

That is truly an error on Randy's part...

First, if you click on the AMC Dana 35 link, it is a cover for a Dana 35 jeep rear axle..

The title of AMC refers and covers all AMC (1954+) and Jeep (1946+) variants thru 1988, and those legacy designs retained by Chrysler (and several other manufacutrers) in later years which use AMC Transmissions, Transfer cases, and Axles...

...I can see how Randy's could get confused if they are familiar with parts only and not the vehicles themselves..Just as Ford Dana 35's front axle's are different than Jeep Dana 35 rear axles.

I hope this helped explain it some...

 

[davy crockett]

Just an FYI, the 37780 hubs are still available from Warn, I just ordered a set.

Also, a cheaper alternative to the warn conversion kit is to buy 2 of Ford part # D2TZ 1198 A. These are the wheel bearing nuts for older F150's. One part (kit with two nuts and a washer/spacer) does one side.

 

[Tbars4]

...Can you share with us what you paid for the hubs and what the spindle nut cost were per side???

 

[davy crockett]

...Can you share with us what you paid for the hubs and what the spindle nut cost were per side???

I work for a Ford dealer so my cost may not be typical. My cost for the set of hubs was $212 and the bearing nuts retail for $19 per side (prices are in CDN $).

 

[Tbars4]

...Thanks for adding that...:biggthump

...It will help others and will be a bonus to other Canadian members too...

 

[toughtruckin']

just wanted to throw this question out there, since i didnt see an exact response here that matched my situation,

i have a set of manual hubs from a 90 ranger that i want to put onto my 91 explorer with auto hubs. do i need anything besides the warn pn 32720 (from the first page of ths thread)?