Solved Your Stock Auto/Manual hub info - Ranger / 91-94 X

[Tbars4]

...If you use the Spicer kit as shown in the first post you can save yourself about $50 bucks...

...Both the auto and manual hubs use different tools to take them off...Just use a pair of channel locks and a small pick to remove the autohubs and be sure to get the socket for the manuals...

...This info can also be found in the links from the first post...

 

[toughtruckin']

thanks.

i already got the old hubs and axle nuts off (im a dealership tech, so i can usually find a way to get stuff apart ). ill look around for that kit and hopefully be in business for the next event in may.

 

[kidd13]

if anyone wanted a detailed write up and pics to go with it heres a link
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/howto_hubswap.htm

 

[polacas]

I have a problem with my 94 xplorer limited, I just changed boths sides 4x4 cams and automatic locks that belonged to working 92 4x4 explorer. The problem seems on the passenger side when 4x4 is engaged a grinding noise comes out from there, everything is working ok, botton light, transfer ok. Transfer arm, is turning but not the passengers wheel and that noise is heard. Any Ideas??? Thank's for your comments

 

[Tbars4]

...Read the links in the first post...

...They have the answers to diagnose your problem...:biggthump

 

[WESTOFYOU]

i have a few jobs to do on repairing ford exlporer brakes right now also ball joints so have done some work on these before any body have any ideas on a good way to replace ball joints 94 exp. 4x4 4 litre soc. explorer:exp:thanks westofyou.

 

[WESTOFYOU]

I have a problem with my 94 xplorer limited, I just changed boths sides 4x4 cams and automatic locks that belonged to working 92 4x4 explorer. The problem seems on the passenger side when 4x4 is engaged a grinding noise comes out from there, everything is working ok, botton light, transfer ok. Transfer arm, is turning but not the passengers wheel and that noise is heard. Any Ideas??? Thank's for your comments

 

[WESTOFYOU]

Are you sure that all of the parts in the lock hub are in right also the outer hub only goes on 1 way. A site i found is all data off a pulic libray site . Wheel end assy. Then wheel retainer, locking key,then cam assembly, then splined steel thrust washer then retaining ring then o-ring then hublock assembly, all have an o ring seal between the hublock and wheel hub to prevent contamination whenever hublock is removed the o ring seal should be checked for damage. If contamination is found in the wheel end the path must be determined and corrected. Path possiblities are thru the hublock seal or the axle spindle seals. Other way to determine if you get a popping banging noise when hubs are engaged see if something is broken or is slipping,put marks at various possible slipoints. Test drive the vehicle then see if the marks are in the same correlation to each other this could help find slipping or broken parts if any.try not to back up stop and check the marks see if they are in the same place. If you back up before checking your marks the hubs reindex and may not reveal a problem this is what the article says.

 

[morgansleiviska]

Locking hubs popped right off with wheel

I just bought a 94 ranger. i was changing my tires for the winter and the manual locking hubs just came right off with the wheels. are they supposed to be secured somehow? also is it important that they are put back on in the same position that they were taken off? they seemed to slide back on just fine and my 4x4 seems to be working still, but i would like to avoid any problems in the future. i also notice as others have that the hubs snap into the free position, but don't seem to have any resistance going into the lock position. any info is appreciated. thank you!

 

[DeRocha]

I just bought a 94 ranger. i was changing my tires for the winter and the manual locking hubs just came right off with the wheels. are they supposed to be secured somehow? also is it important that they are put back on in the same position that they were taken off? they seemed to slide back on just fine and my 4x4 seems to be working still, but i would like to avoid any problems in the future. i also notice as others have that the hubs snap into the free position, but don't seem to have any resistance going into the lock position. any info is appreciated. thank you!

All is good.. the hubs both auto and manual are only held in position by the lug nuts (so they will slide right off). Autos need to be re-inserted so the plastic cam aligns to one of the indents within the hub.. Manuals just slip on and snug into the lock position and snap into the free position...

 

[morgansleiviska]

Thanks, i feel much better

 

[sharonis3]

Why do you need a spindle nut kit when changing to manuals

Hi Guys:

Have to put manuals hubs on my explorer. Just one question:

**Why do you have to swap to the spindle nut kit, why can't you keep the stock auto hub bearing retainer nut? How does the stock nut interfere with the manual hubs?? Just curious !!

Thanks in advance,

 

[red.EDDIE.4x4]

well...now that you mention it i suppose you MIGHT be able to keep it. however, you should have another spindle nut backing it up and keeping it in place. otherwise it will back out on you, and you should eliminate that little retaining shim/pin that slides in the groove because its a pita to mess with on the trail.
just go ahead, spend the extra buck and switch to the 4 prong style manual spindle nuts and the lock washer between them.
its really not that much if you buy the mile maker one (its identical to the warn kit yet much cheaper last i checked)
if you skimp on your truck, it will skimp on you!

 

[sharonis3]

Why do you need a spindle nut kit when changing to manuals

Hi Guys:

Have to put manuals hubs on my explorer. Just one question:

**Why do you have to swap to the spindle nut kit, why can't you keep the stock auto hub bearing retainer nut? How does the stock nut interfere with the manual hubs?? Just curious !!

Thanks in advance,

Just did the swap this weekend - I was curious why you needed a spindle nut kit for the manual hubs. Anyway, the manual hubs do interfere witht the big wheel bearing nut that mounts the cam for the automatic hubs. The manual hubs go almost all the way on, then they hit the automatic wheel bearing nut, with only an 1\8 to go.... So this makes sense, you do need a spindle nut kit to put the manual hubs on...

Easy job to make the switch...

 

[hellcat]

4wheeldrive.com

Is there a parts store that carries the kit ? All I can find is the $80.00 kit

 

[DeRocha]

Is there a parts store that carries the kit ? All I can find is the $80.00 kit

Did you Try 4 wheel parts as mentioned in the 1st post?

4 Wheel parts Manual HUB kit

 

[EskimoEddie]

Minor question

I swapped my autos for a set of Warn manuals and have had no issues at all, except one. I have the factory alloys and they fit fine over the hubs, BUT the steel spare tire does not!! Anyone else have the same issue?

Thanks!!

 

[Maniak]

I"ve heard of people running into this issue. I "think" it was caused by crap/corrosion etc on the inner ring of the rim. I don't remember seeing the issue on our '92, but I haven't put the spare on in > 5 years.

~Mark

 

[DeRocha]

I would agree with Mark... My old spare probably lost a 1/4" of diameter due to rust..

 

[hellcat]

Did you Try 4 wheel parts as mentioned in the 1st post?

4 Wheel parts Manual HUB kit

Yes I just wondered if there were a place that I could get the kit local.