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Next project vehicle?

Discussion in 'Need for Speed!' started by 2000StreetRod, November 9, 2014.

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    1. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Mach 1 Vacuum Ports

      I found a photo of a Mach 1 with the EGR valve port plugged but the vacuum hoses still connected.
      EGRValveSm.jpg
      There are only 3 vacuum ports on the Mach 1 upper intake manifold. Based on the above photo I think the hose routing is as marked on the photo below.
      VacPorts.jpg
      I searched for a Mach 1 heater control valve but could not find one shown on the internet. I did find one for a Marauder which is electrically controlled. I assume that the hose connected to port 1 supplies the brake booster but there could be a "T" in between. Port 3 is a puzzle to me. It is attached to the cast that the IAC valve mounts to. I guess that I need to remove the IAC valve and the throttle body to determine what Port 3 is connected to. Years ago I purchased a Ford van throttle body that had a built in bypass for the IAC valve.
       
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    3. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      Just a thought but maybe the second vacuum hose coming off port 2 goes to the fuel rail pressure sensor(if it has one) or the fuel pressure regulator(if it has one).
      If this vehicle has a mechanical returnless then the regulator would be in the tank and that would rule both possibilities out.
      Maybe 3 goes to the PCV valve? I have seen a few applications where Ford seems to put the PCV and IAC very close together. (one was Ford Lightning)
       
    4. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      IAC Flow

      The Aviator has a fuel pressure/temperature sensor on the fuel rail and the Mach 1/Cobra Division X billet fuel rails I purchased have a port for the fuel pressure/temperature sensor which I plan to use with an electronic fuel pump controller like I did on the Sport. The Aviator coolant heated PCV valve plugs into the passenger side valve cover. I plan to use a standard PCV valve and avoid the coolant hoses. I was correct about the throttle body having an IAC port. Each of the bores has an opening to a central channel.
      IACBypass.jpg
      The channel mates with an identical one in the upper intake manifold. The channel continues to the IAC valve inlet.
      IACFlow2.jpg
      Port 3 may be the IAC valve outlet. If so, then it would have to be connected to either port 2 or port 1.
      IACFlow1.jpg
      I'm hoping that the IAC valve has an internal outlet channel to the intake manifold and that port 3 is an additional vacuum port. I won't know until I remove the IAC valve.
       
    5. 87350gta

      87350gta Active Member

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      What year explorer are you putting this into? If it's an 02 or 03 are you going to convert to electronic returnless fuel system? If it's an 04 or 05, you won't have to change anything.
       
    6. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      My Explorer is a 2003 Centennial. Unfortunately, the inexpensive CD "shop manual" I purchased is for years 2000 to 2002 Explorer and has almost nothing on the fuel system. As I recall, around 2001 Ford went from the returnless system that came on my 2000 Sport to a "return" system that returns fuel from the fuel filter instead of the fuel rail as in the 1998 and earlier models. I suppose that since I now have a vehicle I should invest in a complete set of 2003 shop manuals. I want to minimize plumbing in the engine compartment as much as possible so I plan for no return fuel hose from the fuel rail to the fuel tank. If my 2003 has a return from the fuel filter I'll eliminate it if I replace the stock fuel pump with a higher flow unit. The stock pump will probably be adequate for the 4V NA but not if I add boost. If I upgrade the fuel pump I'll have a Ford fuel pressure/temperature sensor on the fuel rail and an electronic fuel pump controller like I did on my Sport when I installed the Aeromotive Stealth 340.
       
    7. 87350gta

      87350gta Active Member

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      Yea, the 2002-03 have a return line from the filter to the tank, and the regulator is in the pump assy. They run @ 65 psi. You could run a return line from the fuel rail and put a fuel filter from a 2004-05 on it. My stock pump was more than enough for the NA 4.6 I just removed. I don't think the v6 and v8 factory pumps are any different, but don't quote me on that.
       
    8. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I just came in from looking under the vehicle for the first time in an attempt to find the fuel filter. Up until today I just stuck my camera under the vehicle and took photos. I was really surprised about the length of the fuel tank compared to the one in my Sport. I gave up before finding the filter but I assume that it is forward of the tank. I then took my first good look into the engine compartment and if it wasn't for you already having accomplished the swap I wouldn't think it was possible. I have the rear heating/air conditioning unit and there are two pairs of refrigerant lines in the vicinity of the future 4 valve passenger side head. The first thing I did when coming inside was to order a used 2003 Explorer/Mountaineer workshop manual and wiring diagram book. I'm not planning to disable any of my three vehicles until the broken fuel pipeline in Alabama is bypassed. Yesterday I filled up all three vehicle fuel tanks before the shortage impacts South Carolina. We returned from a short vacation in Chattanooga Thursday and now Georgia and Tennessee are experiencing shortages.
       
    9. 87350gta

      87350gta Active Member

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      The fuel filter is kind of a pain. Have to remove two of the three 13mm bolts from the heat shield. Then remove the 2 11mm nuts that hold the plastic heat shield and filter bracket on. Then you can access the fuel lines, which can be tricky. You should be fine with the a/c lines. The aviator has a TON of room for them, but they are slightly bent different.
       
    10. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      I filled up yesterday, and my closest station carries real gas. They price it differently then the alcohol versions, so it doesn't change at the same time. Right now the pure regular is still $2.04 a gallon, even though the bad regular is near $2.15 everywhere else. I need to go fill my two five gallon yard tanks, thanks for reminding me.
       
    11. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Upper intake ports

      I hooked a 3/8 inch internal dia. hose to Port 3 and blew into the other end of the hose. The air came out at the lower cutout that spans the two inlet bores.
      PlenumPort3.jpg
      PlenumInlets.jpg
      That means I can use Port 3 for the PCV valve, the heater control valve and any other vacuum actuated device in that area of the engine compartment. According to my 2002 shop manual CD there are vacuum control motors associated with the heating/air conditioning system. I then moved the hose to Port 2 and blew into it.
      VacPorts.jpg
      I think I could hear air flowing into the upper and lower intake manifold but could not sense any flow with the back of my hand at any of the inlets or outlets (head ports). I suspect that vacuum at Port 2 will be more stable than at Port 3 and would be suitable for the ESM and HVAC functions. I don't know where the fuel vapor management devices are. I'll probably just use the closest port or the one with the least connections. Port 1 with the largest diameter is the obvious choice for the brake booster.
       
    12. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Replacement Bypass Assembly

      Coast 2 Coast Auto Parts came thru today with the arrival of a replacement, undamaged coolant bypass assembly and a postage paid shipping label to return the old one that was damaged.
      BypassAssembly.jpg
      My Morosa oil check valve arrived yesterday. I've been thinking about the engine color scheme. Things that generate heat but should be cooled radiate heat best if black. Therefore I may make my entire cooling system black which will go well with the black engine compartment and exterior. Since the engine block is aluminum I don't plan to paint it or the intake manifold. I probably won't paint the heads either. The oil pan and the valve covers are black and will stay that color. The exhaust manifolds should retain heat for better flow and right now they are rust color. I think I'll clean them up and paint them aluminum to match the other unpainted parts. I may try to brighten the exhaust manifold shields if aluminum or paint them aluminum if they are steel. So with minor exceptions (brass fittings) the engine will colors will be black or aluminum. Since this is my last project vehicle, I'm going to spend some extra time trying to make the engine exterior look as new as the internals.
       
    13. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Pre-luber arrival

      The pre-luber arrived today and if it works I think it will be very satisfactory. There is no sandwich adapter for the oil filter but I knew that from the eBay photo and I don't need one because I'll be using a remote mount adapter which I ordered today. There is no documentation but I found a hookup wiring diagram and plumbing diagram posted with the new kit that was offered on eBay $750. Also, the furnished wiring (with connectors) are color coded to match what is labeled on the electronic controller. I don't know what the controller does but I hope it controls motor start time and reduces current flow at start up. The black hose is 0.5 in. internal dia. and rated at 250 psi. The gray hose is 5/8 in. internal dia. and rated at 250 psi. The ports on the pump appear to be 3/8 in. NPT. There is an assortment of fittings. I suspect I'll use the pair of 1/2 in. NPT to flare and the pair of flare to 1/2 hose barb fittings. Kit.jpg
      The pump assembly weighs 7 pounds is about 8 inches from the bottom of the motor to the top of the pump. The assembly has two different three bolt mounting brackets. One bracket results in the ports facing 90 degrees relative to the mounting surface.
      Mount90.jpg
      The hex head shown allows cleaning and replacement of the screen filter. The other bracket results in the ports facing 180 degrees relative to the mounting surface and allows easier access to the screen filter.
      Mount180.jpg
      The limited documentation I found states:
      There is a recessed check valve in the outlet port;
      The top subassembly is the bypass valve and variable clearance compensator housing (what ever that means).
      I have a box of brass fittings in the garage that may include some 3/8 in. to hose barb fittings. If it does then during the next week I'll set up some way to test the pump. I need to know if it self primes, if it will pressurize a system, and if so if there is an internal pressure relief valve. If I mount it inverted or horizontally where John mounted his intercooler pump (except on the driver side inner wheel well instead of the passenger side) there would only be a few inches of lift relative to the oil pan drain plug required to prime the pump.
      4pointpump.jpg
      Mounting the pump horizontal with the motor aft would allow cleaning the screen without making a mess.
       
    14. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Intake manifold cleanup

      I experimented for about an hour this morning at cleaning up the intake manifold since it is very dingy and unappealing. I started with a soft wire hand brush but quickly changed to drill driven brushes. I have a decent selection of brushes and found that the steel brushes quickly removed metal but significantly scratched the surface. I ended up using brass wire brushes. I don't plan to "clean" the lower intake manifold because I doubt it is visible after the engine is assembled. It will probably take several hours to complete the upper intake manifold.
      Polish1.jpg
      I measured the EVR resistance to be 7.5 ohms using my analog VOM. That surprised me because that means the PCM is drawing 1.8 amps when the alternator voltage is 13.6 volts.

      Edit: The analog VOM battery is almost dead so I didn't trust the ohm reading. I measured the EVR solenoid resistance later with my digital VOM and it is 33 ohms which seems much more reasonable. The ESM arrived this afternoon and the resistance between the EVR pin and the VPWR pin is also 33 ohms.
       
      Last edited: September 21, 2016
    15. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      The ESM fits fine on the intake manifold.
      ESMSide.jpg
      ESMTop.jpg
      If I can remove the mangled, recessed hex head screws in the fuel rail there is probably enough room to mount a fuel pressure gauge.
      Gauge.jpg
      It's only 1 1/2 inches in diameter and 1 inch deep. It comes with either a red or blue inner face.
       
    16. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I found a wiring diagram on the internet that matches the connections and wire colors of the pre-luber for adding an LED that illuminates when the pump is running.
      DiagramLED.jpg
      So I set up a test using my battery charger to simulate the battery and my trickle charger to simulate the ignition and my digital voltmeter at the motor connections.
      ECMTest.jpg
      Based on the wiring diagram I decided that the probable function of the ECM is to activate the motor for a specified time when the ignition is turned on. With the ignition off (trickle charger not plugged in) when I plugged in the large battery charger (simulating battery connected) I heard a relay click in the ECM and there was battery charger voltage at the motor connector pins. When I plugged in the trickle charger I heard a hum from the ECM and there was no change in the voltage at the motor connector pins. I left the power on for 5 minutes to see if something timed out. There were no changes.

      Next I plan to determine if the motor runs and if the pump works. If so, then I'll probably turn the motor on/off with a 30 amp relay controlled by a user programmable delay timer activated by the ignition switch turn on and another manual switch that energizes the relay until the manual switch is turned off. Its the same way the heat exchanger blower is controlled on my Sport and I think I purchased a second delay timer for a future application.
       
    17. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Pre-Luber Test 1

      This morning I kluged together a setup for my first test of the pre-luber. The pump came fitted with -10 (or -12) O ring to -6 AN adapter at the outlet port and -10 (or -12) O ring to -8 AN (I think) adapter at the inlet port. The collection of fittings that came with the pre-luber contained appropriate hose barb fittings for 13/32 in. dia. and 1/2 in. dia. hose that I had on hand. The lift is about 24 inches from the bottom of the bucket containing a gallon of old oil to the top bend of the inlet hose. I inserted a small flat blade screwdriver into the yellow wire connector and connected the battery charger negative alligator clip to the screwdriver shaft. The positive alligator clip is connected to the red wire terminal.
      Test1.jpg
      The pump motor ran fast just a few seconds after the battery charger was plugged into the extension cord and then slowed when oil reached the pump. I didn't have time to measure the flow but there was considerable activity in the bucket. Current flow is about 15 amps at turn on and then varies between 10 and 12 amps continuously. The pump is not very quiet laying on the metal step stool but came with 3 mounting insulators that should quiet it some. My next test will be to measure the flow and then add a pressure gauge and an outlet restriction to compare the flow under pressure. 11 amps at 13.6 volts equals 150 watts or .2 hp. The current flow will probably increase with pressure. I have a 30 amp relay that should be adequate to enable/disable the pump.

      Edit: The pump flow with the hose configuration shown about 1.5 gal/min. which is less than RB Racing's smaller pump ($300) rated 2.6 gal/min at 0 psi.
      oilpumps_034_035.jpg
       
      Last edited: September 24, 2016
    18. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      My 2003 Explorer/Mountaineer Workshop Manual and Wiring Diagrams arrived today.
      ShopManuals.jpg
      While glancing thru the workshop manual I realized that for the 3rd generation models the integrated radiator/transmission cooler has been eliminated. My 2004 Aviator workshop manual also indicates no liquid-to-liquid transmission cooler in the radiator. My experience indicates that liquid-to-liquid coolers are more efficient than air-to-liquid coolers but when the latter fails there is contamination of the coolant with ATF or vice versa. The ATF cooler mounted in front of the radiator is fairly large and may be adequate but I haven't really paid much attention to my ATF temperature this summer. But last November when the OAT was 56 deg. F. the ATF temperature after a short drive I watched the TFT increase to 171 deg. F. and continue upward while sitting in the driveway in Reverse with the engine idling. When I replaced my Sport's single row radiator with a double row the temperature of the radiator was normally around 150 deg. F. on a warm day according to my remote reading thermometer. I think that is the ideal temperature for ATF. I wonder if there is a V6 mounting configuration that accommodates the side tank for the internal ATF cooler.
       
    19. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      An Amsoil EaBP90 bypass oil filter arrived today.
      EaBP90.jpg
      The cost has increased since the last time I bought one. The cheapest I could find was on eBay for $45 with free shipping. If I can find space I'll install it on my Centennial. Otherwise, it's a future replacement filter for my Sport.
       
    20. 87350gta

      87350gta Active Member

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      All of the 3rd gen explorers have the same radiator, be they v6 or v8. The only variance was the aviator. It switched to a top/bottom tank setup instead of a side to side tank rad. They are all external trans coolers sandwiched between the condenser and radiator. That might be a little on the cool side for a trans. I think 160-180 is a better operating temp, but I am not sure. I think I read that somewhere. You could get an oil to water cooler from a newer superduty. They are pretty compact and obviously work well enough to cool a heavy duty unit.
       
    21. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      The thermostat in my 5R55E was set to open the external cooling loop at 150 deg. F. so I assumed that Ford engineering must have determined that was the optimum temperature. I wasn't aware there are any Ford oil to water coolers and haven't been able to find one for a Super Duty. Is it a transmission or engine cooler?
       
    22. 87350gta

      87350gta Active Member

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    23. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Thanks Luke! That looks interesting. I found a photo of one but haven't found any dimensions.
      ATFCooler.jpg
      I'm puzzled about the mating ATF port connectors.
      ATFCoolerPNs.jpg
       
    24. 87350gta

      87350gta Active Member

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      The connections are the standard1/2" quick connect that ford uses on practically everything now. In fact, the '06 and newer explorers use these lines, but they also use a rad mounted cooler in addition to an external cooler.
       
    25. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      So is this a Dorman equivalent of what's mounted on the ATF cooler?
      ATFQuickCnx.jpg
      If so, can I just remove the quick connect fitting and install a standard NPT to hose barb fitting? I wonder where the cooler would fit. It appears to be medium height and length but pretty thick.
       
    26. 87350gta

      87350gta Active Member

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      Correct, those are the same fittings. I am not 100 % sure they are removable for the cooler, but it looks like they are from the picture. That cooler, if I remember correctly, is about 12x4x4 or so.
       

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