TarHeel085's Coilover swap | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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TarHeel085's Coilover swap

well the time has come, and the money made itself availible. I had another thread asking about shocks because i wanted to know what length coilover to get, i made this one cause izwack and froader were complaining about the second page :rolleyes: :D i decided on getting Fox 2.0"x5.0" Emulsion shocks, non resevoir. they are 16.40" extended 11.30" collapsed with 5.10" of travel and also utilizing the spherical bushing kit for the Fox 2.0

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simply because, i wont be running the baja in it, and i dont see off road in it very much any more. i got real tired of the groaning, popping, and overall crappy ride that cranked torsion bars give. for right now i ordered just one shock, to fab up everything.

KICKER BARS SCRAPPED!!

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for now im going to use these to mount the shocks for mock up, and depending on how thick they are they may remain permanant.

Other then that, i think that ive covered everything, except for the springs. Im thinkin that some eibach 300lb springs, to get a nice ride and also good height without cranking them all the way! if anyone has any suggestions just let me, i need all the advice i can get!
 



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i also am going to be using 1.5" x 1.5" x 3/16 Wall Square Tubing to tie the stock shock towers together for stability. and maybe ill be able to get the lower shock mounts from RCD.
 






subscribing.
 






Coilovers are bling :cool: The top shock mount looks identical to my Rubicon Express shock mounts I have for sale now. If you don't have them yet, I'll sell them really cheap. (new in box) Just let me know.

Oh yeah, what front axle are you using?
 






You could probibly fab up the lower mounts like the RCD. If you want I can take some pics of mine in detail of how it mounts.

BTW, RCD wont sell individual brackets, I have tried that already.
 












bmxking5 said:
If you don't have them yet, I'll sell them really cheap. (new in box) Just let me know.

Oh yeah, what front axle are you using?
damn, where were you like 2 days ago :p as far as front axle goes, stock d35 ifs it is. i wont be changing the axle, just the suspension!

boomin, thats what i thought at first as well. buttttt, if you dont tell the 100% truth they will be willing to help you out, i think :( i just need to call them tomm and see what happens :D

i think the swap will be relatively easy once i get all my parts together, and get all the links and support bars mocked up so that they can be replicated! for now, since its cheap, im using wooden dowel as my mock up materials! its only 1/4" smaller but itll be ok!

so who has some input on what rate coil to go with, since i cant afford to be out $68 by gettin the wrong coil, which are non-returnable. and also, where should i put my front link mount? as previously mentioned, i was leaning towards the rear mount for the lower control arm. ANY input would be much appreciated!
 






TarHeel085 said:
so who has some input on what rate coil to go with, since i cant afford to be out $68 by gettin the wrong coil, which are non-returnable. and also, where should i put my front link mount? as previously mentioned, i was leaning towards the rear mount for the lower control arm. ANY input would be much appreciated!

I guess you can calculate the proper spring rate assuming you know about how much weight each wheel holds up (subtract about 100 lbs because the wheel is unsprung weight, along with some suspension components). You already know the total distance the shock travels and I'm assuming you probably want the shock to be half compressed at ride height. So just go with the F=kx equation (dont pestor me about the negative sign, no vectors here :D you know which way is up and which way is down). Take X as half the compressed length and F as the weight at each wheel (minus that 100 lbs or so) - that'll give you K which would be the spring rate.

BTW Just to let you know, the FOX shocks typically come with alluminum bushings at each eye already. So you don't need to put spacers or more bushings on them.

I understand you're doing coil-overs but I still dont undestand some of the terms - like kicker bar :D I'm so new!

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EDIT: I'm going to TRY (key word :D) explain the spring rate thing for future readers following the same conversion. If anyone finds a problem with my explanation, pleas let me know so I can change it.

F = -kx
This equation is based on Hooke's law (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hooke's_law) which accurately describes deformations of materials and the resistance (force) to such deformations. Some of us may remember this dandy equation from high school.

So to break the equation down:
F represents the force
k represents the spring rate/constant
x represents the degree of deformation

We'll ignore the negative sign for now because, in terms of springs in vehicles, we know which way the spring will apply the force. Soo getting rid of the negative sign:

F = kx

In terms of coil springs (or any linear spring for that matter), we can predict about what the spring rate would be given that we know the two other variables (there are three variables in the equation, we want to know one of them, so we have to know the other two). But first lets rewrite the equation just to make it a little easier with the things we want to know on one side and the things we SHOULD know on the other side. Sooo, moving X over to the left, we see that:

k = F/x

Well now that we have what we want to know on the left (k) and what we SHOULD know on the right (F and x), we need to make sure we understand exactly what F and x are within the context of coil springs on vehicles.

F represents the Force that this spring will apply to suspend the vehicle at the proper height. Of course, looking at the original equation and from everyday knowledge, springs do not apply a contant force - they push back more and more as they are compressed more and more. But in terms of vehicle weight, there is only one Force and that is the weight of the vehicle due to gravity on flat ground sitting still. To narrow this down more, since this coil spring will suspend the front axle, this F represents how much weight is at each front wheel. I mentioned earlier to subtract 100 lbs or so because the wheel, the tire, and some suspension compnents will not be 'suspended' by the coil spring - these components are on the opposite side of the coil spring from where most of the vehicle's weight is being applied.

x is how compressed the spring will be at ride height. The good thing about this is that, because TarHeel is using a coil over setup, we know exactly how much travel this spring will be allowed - which is the stroke length of the coil over's shaft (5.10" - lets assume 5.0" for simplicity). Another assumption we have to make is that the coil over will be about half compressed when the vehicle is sitting still on flat ground - so lets say the coil-over assembly will be compressed 2.5". Well wow there then is our x term!

So now we know (or SHOULD know) everything on the right side. We can (I guess) appoximate how much weight is at each wheel and subtract 100 lbs or so from that to give us the F term. We also already know the x term by knowing the total shock stroke length and also making an assumption that, at ride height, the coil over will be about half compressed.

Just to give an example, lets say that the Explorer Sport at hand weighs 3,750 lbs and that 70% of the weight is at the front wheel. So thats about 2,625 lbs total at the front wheels which means 1,300 lbs at each front wheel and minus 100 lbs or so, that gives us 1,200 lbs. Using the same coil over with 5" of travel, and 2.5" compressed at ride height, the equation becomes

k = F/x
k = 1200 lbs / 2.5 inches
k = 480 lbs/inch

Which sounds about right for such a heavy vehicle. Heavier track cars (Mustangs) on twisty courses typically run about 650 lbs/inch - but those are cars probably have less suspension travel which means greater spring rate.

But wait! We're not done yet. Another assumption we made is that this coil-over spring rate will be sitting perfectly vertical. Most likely, it will be angled at some degree from the vertical. Most of the times these angles are small enough so that you don't need to worry too much about them - but just in case, the equation you need to use to figure out the spring rate k2 for a shock that is at an angle A is:

k2 = k / cos (A)

Where again, A is the angle of the spring from the vertical in degrees (not radians) and k is the spring rate we figured out above with the k = F/x equatoin.

So just to get an idea of how an angle changes our spring rate, lets take that same 480 lbs/in spring rate and run it at a 5 degree angle.

k2 = k / cos (A)
k2 = 480 / cos (5)
k2 = 481.83 lbs/ inch

So you can see the angle affects it but not by much.

If you're unsure between two rates, I would opt for the higher spring rate just because most people prefer a stiffer ride than one that feels like a battle ship in a tsunami.

AGAIN, I'd like to point out that we made an assumption on how much weight there is at each front wheel -- this is the hardest part!
 






I don't think your going to need kicker bars. Kicker bars are to support drop brackets like for the 4" or 5" kits.
 






Good info on that spring rate stuff. I think that ought to be stickied.
 






wow, that info is AWESOME! now i just gotta find a big scale! haha, i really appreciate that!!

boomin, i thought the kickers were to help locate the front end so that there is no lateral movement, kinda like the same concept as a track bar? maybe im wrong, just a thought. cause that would make life a lot easier if i didnt have to make and use them!
 






man you need to put a diagram up :) I want to understand your design ideas.
 






Yeah, there is no reason you would need kicker bars. You aren't removing anything structural by removing the torsion bars. All you will need to do is beef up where the coilovers will mount, much like RCD does.

And IZwack, while your weight used in your formula is about dead on, and all your calculations look good you made one fatal mistake. The shock is not directly supporting the weight of the vehicle. It will likely be mounted roughly 1/2 way up the lower A-arm wich is acting as a lever. So assuming it is mounted exactly halfway between the bushings and the ball joint, you would have to double that spring rate.

I would also seriously look at any hardware and mounts that you plan to use for the coilovers. The pic of those shock converters scares the crap out of me. Remember, going back to my last paragraph, this all has to support double what the weight of that corner is.
 






Jefe said:
And IZwack, while your weight used in your formula is about dead on, and all your calculations look good you made one fatal mistake. The shock is not directly supporting the weight of the vehicle. It will likely be mounted roughly 1/2 way up the lower A-arm wich is acting as a lever. So assuming it is mounted exactly halfway between the bushings and the ball joint, you would have to double that spring rate.
Oh good catch, I'll edit my post when I get home from work to accomodate the shock position.
 






Jefe said:
Yeah, there is no reason you would need kicker bars. You aren't removing anything structural by removing the torsion bars. All you will need to do is beef up where the coilovers will mount, much like RCD does.

And IZwack, while your weight used in your formula is about dead on, and all your calculations look good you made one fatal mistake. The shock is not directly supporting the weight of the vehicle. It will likely be mounted roughly 1/2 way up the lower A-arm wich is acting as a lever. So assuming it is mounted exactly halfway between the bushings and the ball joint, you would have to double that spring rate.

I would also seriously look at any hardware and mounts that you plan to use for the coilovers. The pic of those shock converters scares the crap out of me. Remember, going back to my last paragraph, this all has to support double what the weight of that corner is.
thats what i was thinkin as soon as boomin brought it up. I got the upper conversion mounts today, and they are actually about 1/4 of an each thick, they are actaully pretty beefy. i wouldnt think that they would be any thicker. but i will wait and see just what those lower mounts look like. ill be switching the hardware to grade 8 of course. plus looking at the RCD website, the conversion deal for the upper mount doesnt look very thick at all. but maybe boomin or r37 can chime in and prove me wrong. and i just ordered the lower mounts, about $100, cause i dont have the time or resources to fab them up. what i might to is have a company around here try to copy them for cheaper so that they can be had by everyone, and not just me! :D and Jefe, should i get a spring with an 800lb rate? also, keeping in mind, the coils i have to get are 10" coils, im not sure if that makes a difference, but if i dont get the right height i can just crank up the C/O right?
 






I think 800 will be too soft still, but it all depends on where that lower coilover mount ends up. I'm just guessing at that 1/2 way mark. As for length of spring thats where it starts to get fuzzy for me. The spring needs to be long enough that with the shock at full extension it is still held in snug. Other than that I don't know. And yes you will be able to adjust the ride height somewhat, but if you get an absolute incorrect spring rate you won't have enough adjustment. Even with all this close guessing at spring rate, it still may likely be a bit too soft or to firm for the ride you are looking for, so there is no real way to get this in one shot unless maybe you can find out what rate RCD runs. You will also likely have to revalve the shock to your liking also.
 






yeah, i figured as much. so one question, how do you put the coil on these things?? and also, im gunna have to find a spot for a new bump stop. the stock one is going to be in my way! *BLING*
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and yes, i know that bolt isnt all the way in, but the converter needs to be modified a lil bit.
 






Yeah on my kit you have to cut a nice chunk out of the bump stop bracket to clear the coilover.
 









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I was thinking about this and had an idea.

Let me preface this by saying that I am attempting to install a used super lift to allow me to clear my oversize tires without having the terribly harsh ride of the TT, so I feel your pain.

My idea was instead of relying solely on the coil over, could you not use a combination of torsion bar and coil over? Theoretically speaking, you could use a softer spring rate on the coil over, adjust it to the height you desire and use the torsion bar to support the rest of the weight? *If* you got the correct spring rate for the coil over, the effective spring rate could be close to that of a stock torsion bar. This would allow heigh without a stiff front end. (I think?)
 






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