TarHeel085's Coilover swap | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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TarHeel085's Coilover swap

well the time has come, and the money made itself availible. I had another thread asking about shocks because i wanted to know what length coilover to get, i made this one cause izwack and froader were complaining about the second page :rolleyes: :D i decided on getting Fox 2.0"x5.0" Emulsion shocks, non resevoir. they are 16.40" extended 11.30" collapsed with 5.10" of travel and also utilizing the spherical bushing kit for the Fox 2.0

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simply because, i wont be running the baja in it, and i dont see off road in it very much any more. i got real tired of the groaning, popping, and overall crappy ride that cranked torsion bars give. for right now i ordered just one shock, to fab up everything.

KICKER BARS SCRAPPED!!

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for now im going to use these to mount the shocks for mock up, and depending on how thick they are they may remain permanant.

Other then that, i think that ive covered everything, except for the springs. Im thinkin that some eibach 300lb springs, to get a nice ride and also good height without cranking them all the way! if anyone has any suggestions just let me, i need all the advice i can get!
 



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mountaineergree said:
If* you got the correct spring rate for the coil over, the effective spring rate could be close to that of a stock torsion bar.
As JEFE pointed out, this would only work if the coil-over is placed at the same place outboard on the A-arm.
 



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Oh i thought you meant replace the torsion bar with coil-overs.

If the coils had the same spring rate as the torsion bar (and both torsion bar and coil springs were used), the ride would be ultra stiff.
 






mountaineergree said:
My idea was instead of relying solely on the coil over, could you not use a combination of torsion bar and coil over? Theoretically speaking, you could use a softer spring rate on the coil over, adjust it to the height you desire and use the torsion bar to support the rest of the weight? *If* you got the correct spring rate for the coil over, the effective spring rate could be close to that of a stock torsion bar. This would allow heigh without a stiff front end. (I think?)
While you could do that, trying to tune the suspension would be very difficult and confusing.

Why not just play with torsion bar spring rates and tuned shocks to get the ride you are looking for?
 






Im having a hard time explaining what I mean. By using coil overs that are height adjustable, you can raise the front while keeping a softer spring rate. But there seem to be issues with the front shock tower supporting the weight of the truck. So lift the front by adjustable coilovers and the existing shock tower and support part of the weight with the torsion bars. Basically, back off the torsion bars, install the coilovers. It will be difficult to tune, but if you could get it right it would be great.
 






subscribing and adding.. boomin on the rcd what to do the lower mounts look like.. this is a good idea to watch.
 












zhanx said:
subscribing and adding.. boomin on the rcd what to do the lower mounts look like.. this is a good idea to watch.
from what i can tell and guess is that they bolt on to where the stock shock goes through the control arm, using the two holes and also once that you have to drill on the side. this should be all coming together around the 12th or so, whenever i get the lower mounts in. but until then ill be planning on how to tie my shock towers together and also what im going to do about the bumpstop. any suggestions? and also, since i dont know if anyone saw it, but how do you get the shocks on these things, for real?
 






Here is a decent pic of my lower mount and how I cut the bumpstop bracket.


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Is the bottom link the "kicker" bar?

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TarHeel085 said:
and also, since i dont know if anyone saw it, but how do you get the shocks on these things, for real?
I saw but don't know on the Fox shocks. Most coilovers that I've seen, the bottom spring retainer comes off the shaft easily. This one is different. The only thing I see is to remove the shrader valve at the top and slide the spring down?
 






Yeah thats the kicker bars
 






i still havent gotten my lower mounts yet, but I was looking around online as to how RCD reinforces the stock shock tower and has the mount up at the top. it looks like a glorified shock converter to me and that they dont offer anny kind of gusseting or reinforcement up top. this leads me to beleive that you dont necesarily need it. cause i doubt a company like RCD would sell a product without thoroughly researching it, right?
689870_68_full.jpg
 






The top brack also is bolted on on the back side by 2 7/16 bolts on each side. Its like an upside down L bracket.
 






They are more concerned with the shock and tower bending/rotating towards the engine then they are with it breaking off anywhere. Thats the point of the gussets they provide, is to keep it from bending away from the tire under hard use. For mild use I doubt the bracing is even needed but, a few little pieces of plate steel and a welder can't hurt. It always better to overbuild suspension components then to take a chance. Might as well throw on some reinforcement while you've got it apart and clean.
 






CougarX said:
They are more concerned with the shock and tower bending/rotating towards the engine then they are with it breaking off anywhere. Thats the point of the gussets they provide, is to keep it from bending away from the tire under hard use. For mild use I doubt the bracing is even needed but, a few little pieces of plate steel and a welder can't hurt. It always better to overbuild suspension components then to take a chance. Might as well throw on some reinforcement while you've got it apart and clean.
thats true, i think thats what i will end up doing instead of tying both towers together. the lower mounts should be here tomm, and then ill get everything mocked up. im also gunna call RCD again and as what spring rate they use on their coilovers and also what the shock valving is so i can order my other coilover and springs. ALSO, what does everyone think about using limiting straps to limit travel so my coilover isnt doing that. how would i attach it to the frame, just drill a hole and stick a grade 8 bolt in??
 






limit straps stretch, so placing them properly is not just that simple, but yes the shock should not limit travel.
I say mount the coil over, gusset your shock towers (I think it is needed personally) and then cycle the suspension CV's to see about limiting with straps. I personalyl would rahte a strap limit the travel rather then the ball joint or shock..
 






410Fortune said:
limit straps stretch, so placing them properly is not just that simple, but yes the shock should not limit travel.
I say mount the coil over, gusset your shock towers (I think it is needed personally) and then cycle the suspension CV's to see about limiting with straps. I personalyl would rahte a strap limit the travel rather then the ball joint or shock..
yeah, exactly, i dont wanna screw up my new shocks and balljoints as well. so thats what i will do, once everything is in and bolted down ima see what i need to do. tonight i got everything in place with the lower mounts in. everything looks pretty good. just need order my coils, other coilover, trim the bumpstops and do my gusseting. and of course take out the torsion bars :D more pics for ya! and since i see everyone has some kinda drinks in their threads in this section i felt i should too!
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Looks good... new Sprite eh?
 



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so i see you talked rcd into selling the mount.. but for 100 i think its kind of steep. is that 3/16 steel?
 






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