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2wd and 4wd Lifts.

One of the ones listed in this thread, or anywhere else on this website for that matter.
 



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I will be getting college money, for a new truck, at the end of this school year and was wondering if it would be worth my while to do a front box kit, soa, tt and pa-853 body lift to get approx. 8" of lift on my 1996 XLT. If so, how big could I go on tires and how much would I have to regear? I really love my explorer, parents bought it new in 96 and I grew up in it. What other mods could I make to increase the longevity of the truck?
 






As a recent college grad myself, I cannot recommend any modifications to your truck using that money until you know you have a solid, predictable income. If you already do, congratulations and go for it.
 






ok when i go to http://www.louisville4x4.com/fsusexplorer.htm and i look at the front kit box 9637 and it says for years 96-01! when you type that part number in on the superlift website its says 01 and up ford sport track?

im a little confused if it will come with everything i need, i have 99 xlt 4wd 4door
 






Man. That's a nice set of ideas right there.. Now to save.. And get some time off of work to do this. Haha

This saved me like months of searching and getting prices and choosing what brands. Haha
 






I've been doing some research on the 2nd gen Explorer lift information. I've found that this thread is a great source of information. However, I came across some left out information on the original write-up.

Superlift part # 9637 only contains the lift knuckles and the hardware used to mount them. (this does not include any drop brackets). Read the parts listings on the bottom of that page.

http://www.superlift.com/Catalog.asp?P=9637

Easily purchased here:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slf-9637

$583 vs. $660 at louisville4x4



I did find the drop brackets on Superlift's website. They can be purchased with part # 9633. This kit has every front drop bracket and hardware used for the 4" lift. However, this kit also includes the front and rear shocks. See parts listings below in this link.

http://www.superlift.com/Catalog.asp?P=9633

Easily purchased from:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slf-9633

$1082 vs. $1218 at louisville4x4


In my opinion, and I know it might not mean much here just yet, is that the two kits required to lift just the front is almost as much as purchasing the complete kit. Personally, I would just purchase the full kit. Then upgrade the rear with the spring over axle with stock springs, add blocks or add a leaf to match the extra 1.5-2 inches gained by the torsion twist, or just add a body lift since the complete kit comes with rear springs.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slf-k494

$2087 complete vs. $1665 for just the front kits.
 






Thanks for the info!

I am right now researching which way to go and what kit to buy to lift my Xploder to fit 33's.

Looks like the Superlift option and body kit, etc that you listed here would raise it up about 8inches and cost about $1,000 not including labor. I am not sure I have the technical skills needed to do a Spring Over Axle anything hahaha.

For us newbies would it be better and less expensive to just buy 2inch $20 Shackles at AutoZone, and do a 2inch front Torsion Twist, then buy a 3inch Body Lift Kit $150.00 to raise it about 5inches for less than $200-$250 not including labor?

It looks like the difference in cost is about $750 to $800 with a height difference of only 3 inches.

What do you more experienced Wheelers think?


body lift gives you no more ground clearence and will expose the frame rails more in my opinion its pointless i would save and do a real lift
 






body lift gives you no more ground clearence and will expose the frame rails more in my opinion its pointless i would save and do a real lift

The body lift gives you more room for bigger tires. Bigger tires give you more clearance. That's the point.

A suspension lift just drops the suspension down and doesn't give you more clearance either so, by your logic, is pointless too.
 






The body lift gives you more room for bigger tires. Bigger tires give you more clearance. That's the point.

A suspension lift just drops the suspension down and doesn't give you more clearance either so, by your logic, is pointless too.

i guess thats a way of looking at it idk i guess you would be correct on that but 3 more inches may give you 33s with trimming the explorer have ****ty clearance in the fender wells but you could maybe do 35s with trimming im gonna do some more research on tire size also do you know anyone who did the soa in the rear and the superlift up front im trying to find drop brackets for the torsion bars
 






There have been a few but I can't think of any names at the moment. Paraphoe maybe?
 






4 Inches of lift?

I have a question regarding a lift combination. I found a 2/3" lift on Fat Bob's Garage which entails a torsion key and a add a leaf for a total of 3" on a Ranger and about 2 on an Ex. Taking this kit in addition to a 2" shackle like the WAR-153 and a TT that would theoretically give my Ex 4" of lift? Any opinions or knowledge regarding this theory would be appreciated?
 






An aftermarket torsion key does the same thing that a "TT" does. Waste of money.
 






An aftermarket torsion key does the same thing that a "TT" does. Waste of money.

Thanks for the reply. So which route do you recommend going between the two lift ideas I mentioned?
 






I'd recommend getting the long add-a-leaf (I don't often see it mentioned, but there is a short version and long version), and the TT obviously because it's free. With the long add-a-leaf you shouldn't need extended shackles to match the TT.
 






I'd recommend getting the long add-a-leaf (I don't often see it mentioned, but there is a short version and long version), and the TT obviously because it's free. With the long add-a-leaf you shouldn't need extended shackles to match the TT.

There is an option for Long or Shirt in that kit and I was thinking the long too because wouldn't it not only help raise the most but also increase the payload or towing ever so slightly versus the short? Also you say just do the TT versus getting the Torsion keys because it's free? Is there any benefit to do go with the keys versus the twist?
 






There is an option for Long or Shirt in that kit and I was thinking the long too because wouldn't it not only help raise the most but also increase the payload or towing ever so slightly versus the short?

I'm not sure about increase in towing payload but when I used to have an add-a-leaf, I got probably close to 3" out of it, which matched my 3" lift spindles perfectly. A lot of people say they don't get that much lift out of add-a-leafs, and I am guessing it is the short version they are using.

Also you say just do the TT versus getting the Torsion keys because it's free? Is there any benefit to do go with the keys versus the twist?

An aftermarket torsion key does the same thing that a "TT" does. Waste of money.
 






An aftermarket torsion key does the same thing that a "TT" does. Waste of money.


The TT changes the effective spring rate. It raises the front by making the spring rate stiffer.

The Torsion Keys change the starting point of the t-bar.

I raised mine almost 3 inches just by putting the t-keys in with the adjustment screws turned in the same number of threads.

To bring it down to 2 inches I had to turn the screws out, thus decreasing the spring rate.

It's like putting a coil spring spacer under spring vs using a stiffer spring.

I got 2" in the front and 3 1/2" in the back and I'm able to run 265/65/18's which are 32.6"x10.5" without any trimming.

So torsion keys are not a waste of $$, unless you desire the ride to be rougher, and suspension lifts DO provide more clearance.

http://s76.photobucket.com/user/Tim280northocean/embed/Wheels/story



MT
 












Sorry MT but this is true.

I'll tell you what, come down here and take my truck for a ride.

IT rides smoother now than before the lift.

Yes,you can get the lift without the torsion keys.

But you sacrifice ride quality and put more stress on the t-bars.

The TT works by making the spring rate stiffer, while the t-keys change the starting point, not adding to the spring rate, or adding stress to the t-bars.

But you're free to believe whatever you like.

MT
 



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I'd really like if more people chimed in here. I've seen this topic discussed in a few places and there are always people on both sides.

One thing I have noticed is that most people change out their shocks and/or shock brackets when getting new torsion keys. Comparing the ride quality of a torsion crank with regular shocks vs torsion keys and upgraded Rancho shocks and/or bracket isn't how you go about proving that a torsion key is better.

Has anyone done a torsion key and seen how it rides without the shock upgrade? Or other similar tests, such as torsion twist with ranchos, longer bolts with ranchos, etc...?

The reason I ask is because on this ranger forum, the conclusion is that the ride quality is ALL in the new shocks/bracket and has nothing really to do with the crank or keys.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=112249&page=2

I'm planning on getting a small lift soon and would like to hear more regarding this.
 






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