2wd and 4wd Lifts.

[MAS Tequila]

In my case I did the keys without changing the shocks.

The ride quality improved, it wasn't as harsh when hitting uneven pavement or bumps. Just driving down the street seems more 'plush', it just feels better.

But then I did have to take turns out of the adjustment bolts to keep the lift at 2" to keep from putting the front axle joints in a bind.

After doing the rear springs and shackles the truck rides like new.

Right before putting the wheels and tires on I changed out the front shocks for the longer Ranchos, the ones I took off were only on the truck 6 months, just to be sure there would be no undue wear on the new tires.

There doesn't seem to be any noticeable difference in the ride quality between the different length shocks. But better safe than sorry.

The Monroe coilovers in the rear still required putting the floor jack under the bottom of the shock to get the bolts in. So I beleive that they are still long enough.

I firmly beleive that changing the spring rate by a TT will get you there, but stiffening the spring rate has to affect the quality of the ride, and put more stress on the t-bars. IT has to since the raise is gained by turning the adjustment bolts in further. Where with the keys I have fewer turns on the bolts resulting in a slightly softer spring rate than was started with.

MT

I'd really like if more people chimed in here. I've seen this topic discussed in a few places and there are always people on both sides.

One thing I have noticed is that most people change out their shocks and/or shock brackets when getting new torsion keys. Comparing the ride quality of a torsion crank with regular shocks vs torsion keys and upgraded Rancho shocks and/or bracket isn't how you go about proving that a torsion key is better.

Has anyone done a torsion key and seen how it rides without the shock upgrade? Or other similar tests, such as torsion twist with ranchos, longer bolts with ranchos, etc...?

The reason I ask is because on this ranger forum, the conclusion is that the ride quality is ALL in the new shocks/bracket and has nothing really to do with the crank or keys.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=112249&page=2

I'm planning on getting a small lift soon and would like to hear more regarding this.

 

[OffTrac]

There is confusion about how a torsion bar works. Twisting the adjusting bolt does not increase the spring rate or tension on the bar. You are adjusting the lower control arm, not the bar. The lower control arms are simply rotated to a new starting point. The loss of ride quality comes from a decrease in down travel, not anything to do with a physical change in the bar. Re-indexed keys do exactly the same thing. To believe otherwise means you think the lower control arm (or gravity?) is somehow so strong that it starts to add tension in the spring.

People who spend money on re-indexed keys will defend their expenditure to the death but it does not change the mechanical facts.

 

[SLAYERMIKE]

There is confusion about how a torsion bar works. Twisting the adjusting bolt does not increase the spring rate or tension on the bar. You are adjusting the lower control arm, not the bar. The lower control arms are simply rotated to a new starting point. The loss of ride quality comes from a decrease in down travel, not anything to do with a physical change in the bar. Re-indexed keys do exactly the same thing. To believe otherwise means you think the lower control arm (or gravity?) is somehow so strong that it starts to add tension in the spring.

People who spend money on re-indexed keys will defend their expenditure to the death but it does not change the mechanical facts.

Thank you OffTrac!
The only way to increase the spring rate of a torsion bar is to get a bigger (diameter) or stiffer bar.
The weight off the truck does not change so you are not changing the "effective" spring rate, I guess you could by limiting down travel with a limit strap and preloading the bar against the strap...

When you do a "torsion twist" all you are doing is re indexing the adjuster key to the same point a "re-indexed key" starts at.

 

[mounty71]

First I will say that I am not an engineer so I may very well be wrong, but the above is exactly why I said keys are a waste of money, at least in my opinion. Imagine the torsion bar in its position on a 2" lifted truck, either 1) with the stock key and the bolt screwed in, or 2) with the new key and the bolt screwed out. The torsion bar is in the exact same position, rotated to the same angle, mounted in the same place on the lower arm, which in turn puts the lower arm at the same angle in both scenarios. Therefore, same spring rate. You are achieving the same torsion bar position, regardless of which way you go about it. How the torsion bar "knows" the difference is beyond me, but believe what you will. The rougher ride comes from 3 things that I can see, 1) the loss of down travel, 2) the lower arm is now more vertical so there is more scrub at the tire as the suspension compresses, and 3) being more vertical, it requires more force now to overcome the torsion bar and make the lower arm pivot on its bushings (not because of a higher spring rate, but because of the load path changing).

But I digress... I'm on coilovers now.

 

[micheallinares]

cheapest route to go

what is the cheapest route to go on a 2" lift should i just do shackles and keys???

 

[Mike65]

Shackles, & adjust the torsion bars.

 

[DemonMudder]

Bringing this back, can anyone still find the 4" superlift front kit? I've been searching and hunting and can't find it. I believe I found the original link on summit but it's not available, may see about calling for a special order. But if anyone else still knows where else to find it, would appreciate anything

 

[fastpakr]

Bringing this back, can anyone still find the 4" superlift front kit? I've been searching and hunting and can't find it. I believe I found the original link on summit but it's not available, may see about calling for a special order. But if anyone else still knows where else to find it, would appreciate anything

Superlift Suspension Lift Kit

4'' Lift Kit - 00-10 Ranger 4WD - w/ SL Shocks

superlift.com

That should at least get you what you need for the front. Then handle the back separately with appropriate shocks and spacers or new springs.

 

[DemonMudder]

Superlift Suspension Lift Kit

4'' Lift Kit - 00-10 Ranger 4WD - w/ SL Shocks

superlift.com

That should at least get you what you need for the front. Then handle the back separately with appropriate shocks and spacers or new springs.

Thanks! I couldn't even find it for the ranger, guess that's just my luck for ya