is there springs on the front of a 97 mountaineer? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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is there springs on the front of a 97 mountaineer?

s420speed

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City, State
Greensburg,PA
Year, Model & Trim Level
97 Mercury mountaineer 50
Hello I have a 97 Mercury mountaineer 5.0 it sags alittle on the front driver's side and I don't see any springs so I'm wondering if there is any or what could cause this issue thanks in advanced
 



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Uses torsion bars -- can be adjusted individually
 












Adjust.
 






OK I'll try that if that don't help is there a way to tell if there bad? I'm new to all this I'm more of a compact guy lol low and fast is what I'm used to
 


















I bought a '98 Ex which had tumbled down an embankment, which bent things out of shape in the right front suspension. The torsion bar was bent, visible to the eye. Rear support for it was bent out of place, it attached permanently to the frame. I was able to hammer the bar (with difficulty), out of it's front nest, and subsequently straightened the torsion bar using my axle press. Before work, the vehicle was almost undriveable, ripping the steering wheel right out of my hands. I took a chance buying it, because it had a 5.0 V-8 and AWD.

It rode and tracked very nicely when finished. The gals who bought it were pleased, as was I. imp
 






I bought a '98 Ex which had tumbled down an embankment, which bent things out of shape in the right front suspension. The torsion bar was bent, visible to the eye. Rear support for it was bent out of place, it attached permanently to the frame. I was able to hammer the bar (with difficulty), out of it's front nest, and subsequently straightened the torsion bar using my axle press. Before work, the vehicle was almost undriveable, ripping the steering wheel right out of my hands. I took a chance buying it, because it had a 5.0 V-8 and AWD.

It rode and tracked very nicely when finished. The gals who bought it were pleased, as was I. imp
Wow so the chance of being bad would be slim lol that's a amazing story bro great job and great job to Ford to for building it lol thanks that's a relief can't go wrong with a free fix
 






Wow so the chance of being bad would be slim lol that's a amazing story bro great job and great job to Ford to for building it lol thanks that's a relief can't go wrong with a free fix
OK guys I got a few more questions I measured all 4 corners from the center of the wheel well and got 4 different measurements so the big question is the rear driver side what is the piece between the leaf spring and axle it looks like it's rubber and I don't know what it's called to replace it and my other question is could a bad strut cause it to sag it seems as though someone already raised it using the torsion bar due to the front passenger side is the highest point of all the wheel wells thank you for all of the help I'm definitely out of my element with this SUV ive always had cars mostly imports so most of this is new to me
 






I believe the "rubber piece" you're referring to is a rear bump stop. Prevents the axle from direct metal contact with the frame when bottomed out. Rear drivers side lean is very common and known as "Ranger lean". Theory is the weight imbalance of the fuel tank, driver, and battery weakens the left leaf spring faster than the right. Factory spec for allowable side to side difference is about 1/2". Also keep in mind adjusting front torsion bolts affects the opposite rear corner. Front right up = rear left down. Another thing to remember is camber and toe changes any time the torsion bolts are adjusted, and alignment should be checked.
 






Ford Shop Manual calls out body heights quite specifically, for 2nd. gens. I suspect this is due to the greatly amplified amount of affect due to slight torsion bar variations. 3rd. gens seem always to be pretty even-keeled, level. Every front suspension scheme has it's ups and downs, I personally dislike MacPhersons, and even torsion bar springing. Chrysler used them possibly as a sales gimmick, (different, thus better), back in the '60s. Abandoned them. Leaf springs suck, "wind-up" under applied torque, don't lend themselves to front at all, (forget Jeep and Scout), and can allow side-sway. Good, independent suspension using coil springs and side-sway movement are tops for me. imp
 






Ford Shop Manual calls out body heights quite specifically, for 2nd. gens. I suspect this is due to the greatly amplified amount of affect due to slight torsion bar variations. 3rd. gens seem always to be pretty even-keeled, level. Every front suspension scheme has it's ups and downs, I personally dislike MacPhersons, and even torsion bar springing. Chrysler used them possibly as a sales gimmick, (different, thus better), back in the '60s. Abandoned them. Leaf springs suck, "wind-up" under applied torque, don't lend themselves to front at all, (forget Jeep and Scout), and can allow side-sway. Good, independent suspension using coil springs and side-sway movement are tops for me. imp
Thanks guys I'll try to get a picture of the piece I'm talking about tomorrow and I'll put it up cuz based off the looks of the one on the other side it's definitely bad lol thanks again
 






Its fairly common for Gen II Explorers/Mountaineers to develop the "gansta lean" on the driver's side. This happens due to the extra weight on the left side of the vehicle (fuel tank, battery, driver). It's typically due to the rear leaf spring sagging, but I guess it could also be attributed to the left front torsion bar (less likely IMO). The torsion bar can be adjusted and the rear leaf spring can be re-arched or replaced. Many here have had success replacing the rear shocks with Monroe Load Levelers, which are a form of coil-over shock absorber. Another common area of failure is the rear spring hangers/shackles often get rusty and collapse. Be sure to check those too.
 






Its fairly common for Gen II Explorers/Mountaineers to develop the "gansta lean" on the driver's side. This happens due to the extra weight on the left side of the vehicle (fuel tank, battery, driver). It's typically due to the rear leaf spring sagging, but I guess it could also be attributed to the left front torsion bar (less likely IMO). The torsion bar can be adjusted and the rear leaf spring can be re-arched or replaced. Many here have had success replacing the rear shocks with Monroe Load Levelers, which are a form of coil-over shock absorber. Another common area of failure is the rear spring hangers/shackles often get rusty and collapse. Be sure to check those too.
Thanks for all the advice and tips from what I can tell she will need alot of TLC on the suspension and just about everything else so I'm sure I'll be back soon with more questions thanks again
 






If there is paint missing on the torsion bars and you see rust bands you should absolutely replace them. They can definitely snap, had it happen on my truck and others here too.
 






If there is paint missing on the torsion bars and you see rust bands you should absolutely replace them. They can definitely snap, had it happen on my truck and others here too.
Thank you that advice came at the perfect time I'm going through and making a repair list so I can decide where to start making repairs I do all my own repairs so do you know if I will need a specialty tool to replace the torsion bars if needed?
 






Thank you that advice came at the perfect time I'm going through and making a repair list so I can decide where to start making repairs I do all my own repairs so do you know if I will need a specialty tool to replace the torsion bars if needed?
I bought a tool, it was about 50$ after some price comparisons. There are redneck ways of doing it without a tool but you have to be very careful. An ER visit could end up much more. The cheapest labor for replacement of those bars was $250, so I guess the tool wasn't that expensive. The tools is:
OTC 7826

Also, they can snap at any time, driving or while you are working under truck. Always support the truck frame, even though it is tempting to go under it.
 






You might be able to borrow the tool from an auto parts store. Check with Autozone, Advance or O'Reilly. Why buy a tool you'll probably never use again when you can borrow one with just a deposit.

If I were you, I'd try jacking up the low side from under the rear spring perch to see if it levels out. I think it's less likely your torsion bar is why it's low on one side. It's more likely the driver's side leaf spring is sagged. Furthermore, I've been dealing with torsion bars since the 60's and I have never seen, or heard, of one spontaneously breaking. I'm sure it does and has happened, but it's not exactly a common thing. It probably happens more often on vehicles that are driven off-road, especially with a TT (torsion bar twist).
 



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You might be able to borrow the tool from an auto parts store. Check with Autozone, Advance or O'Reilly. Why buy a tool you'll probably never use again when you can borrow one with just a deposit.

If I were you, I'd try jacking up the low side from under the rear spring perch to see if it levels out. I think it's less likely your torsion bar is why it's low on one side. It's more likely the driver's side leaf spring is sagged. Furthermore, I've been dealing with torsion bars since the 60's and I have never seen, or heard, of one spontaneously breaking. I'm sure it does and has happened, but it's not exactly a common thing. It probably happens more often on vehicles that are driven off-road, especially with a TT (torsion bar twist).
Thanks again she probably won't see any off roading just want her to be solid I'm buying it off my brother and he doesn't maintain his cars the only thing I can say about it is the engine seems to be solid other than the oil pan gasket which from what I've read on other post that will be one job that she goes to a garage for
 






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