C420sailor
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- July 29, 2008
- Messages
- 2,316
- Reaction score
- 1,891
- City, State
- Long Island, NY
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 98 XLT SOHC, 99 EB 5.0L
I don’t know about y’all, but my Explorer does not stop at 95mph.
I am sure that you are familiar with "special service vehicles"?There’s places with speed limits in excess of 80mph. Why have a speed limiter in the 90s if a car is “certified” at a little over half that speed. Why doesn’t this show on the manufactures window stickers? Why isn’t it posted on the car somewhere? Is everyone supposed to guess and just adhere to slower than the speed limit for this made up number?
That would make sense. Driver's side has battery, driver, and fuel tank. If the rear leaves were set up the same then maybe I wouldn't have had an extra 1/2"+ sag on the left rear vs right rear before I put the Monroe coilover shocks on.question- when i look at my tbars it says
gs 238 on the deivers side and hb 218 on the passenger tbar... does this mean i have 2 different spring rates???
oh, ok... someone had said jt shoudl be "L_, and R_" but mine doesnt have that... also ive never geard of g rated tbars... and doesnt that mean the g ones (if they exist idk if they do) would be softer than the b rated ones on the passenger side?That would make sense. Driver's side has battery, driver, and fuel tank. If the rear leaves were set up the same then maybe I wouldn't have had an extra 1/2"+ sag on the left rear vs right rear before I put the Monroe coilover shocks on.
I agree with most of what was suggested. Start with a front end check/alignment. Replace roll bar bushings front and rear. No, they are not sway bars. As a short wheel base vehicle, most of anything that you put into the vehicle will end up on the rear axle. Put the hd shocks on the rear first. Leave the front shocks alone till you test it with the rears. Change the front shocks if you are not satisfied. If you cannot get new rear springs, a set of adjustable helper leaves might give you options for stability vs ride quality. I would not recommend the use of coil over helpers in the rear as they can make the handling worse. This is due to the upper mounting point being narrower than the lower mounting point. If you are running "tall" or off-road tires, some of your bouncy is in the tires. If so, you may need to consider different tires. Another thought is where you load things. Shifting weight (that you are carrying) or if not needed, removing it, will act as more front end weight and will reduce the floating feel. Consider tire pressure as well. Overloaded/under pressure tires will feel the same way. If none of the things suggested helps enough, you could consider adding a watts linkage which will eliminate rear sway except for what is in the tires.
Or just slow it down. These vehicles were designed for a maximum of 65mph.
A “roll bar” is an interior metal frame that protects the driver in case the car tolls over!That's what I thought it would be good for. I have to alter the pressure when the temps go up or down a lot in days time. I wonder how the TPMS works to have a different limit range and warning signal for those. My dad's old car has one tire that loses a little pressure over weeks, and you can see it in the TPMS data on the dash.
A anti roll bar is very similar to a sway bar but the attachment is different.A “roll bar” is an interior metal frame that protects the driver in case the car tolls over!
Anti-sway bars are solid metal bars attached to the chassis with clamps and bushings with the ends attached to the A frame of each wheel to help stabilize the chassis when cornering or going over bumps.
Two entirely different items and uses.
Yeah I'm going to check the sway bars end links out and throw a poly kit on front and back. Anti-Roll bar and sway bar mean the same thing/are the same thing. I'm just running the factory 255/70r16 at 40psi, though I might try 35. In general use it won't go over 65, but I want it to be able to safely when I need it to. It could go 85 easy before my last trip, so it can do it again although with some work.I agree with most of what was suggested. Start with a front end check/alignment. Replace roll bar bushings front and rear. No, they are not sway bars. As a short wheel base vehicle, most of anything that you put into the vehicle will end up on the rear axle. Put the hd shocks on the rear first. Leave the front shocks alone till you test it with the rears. Change the front shocks if you are not satisfied. If you cannot get new rear springs, a set of adjustable helper leaves might give you options for stability vs ride quality. I would not recommend the use of coil over helpers in the rear as they can make the handling worse. This is due to the upper mounting point being narrower than the lower mounting point. If you are running "tall" or off-road tires, some of your bouncy is in the tires. If so, you may need to consider different tires. Another thought is where you load things. Shifting weight (that you are carrying) or if not needed, removing it, will act as more front end weight and will reduce the floating feel. Consider tire pressure as well. Overloaded/under pressure tires will feel the same way. If none of the things suggested helps enough, you could consider adding a watts linkage which will eliminate rear sway except for what is in the tires.
Or just slow it down. These vehicles were designed for a maximum of 65mph.
A anti roll bar is very similar to a sway bar but the attachment is different.
I use that cheapo free gas station air.Read on the internet saying nitrogen filled tires improves ride quality and MPG.
Maybe the OP's just using "regular" air? Anyone tried helium?
May I ask where did you get that beefy thing?I'm definitely interested in any upgrades to improve handling.LOL, I know what he was talking about, but he was talking to someone else. I never mentioned an anti-sway bar, or a roll bar. I have a bigass sway bar though, larger than any 2nd gen has ever had on it. It works well, 1.5" in diameter.
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